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Old 05-17-2017, 06:41 PM   #61
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Question

Does your hot water heater work ONLY when hook to city water? Our old hauler would heat using just tank water
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Old 05-17-2017, 07:09 PM   #62
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No, it comes on all the time. I am not sure how a water heater would know if it was on city water or pump. Are you having troubles with yours?.
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Old 05-17-2017, 08:58 PM   #63
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Seems like the water pump isn't strong enough
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Old 05-17-2017, 09:43 PM   #64
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Found the culprit. Screw on glass cover on water pump is broke allowing water to piss out and not being able to prime properly
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Old 05-17-2017, 10:07 PM   #65
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That will do it.. Good find! Now with any luck you just got to find a replacement cap?

You can just replace the filter assembly
https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-255-2.../dp/B000V2W0GE
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Old 05-17-2017, 10:41 PM   #66
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That will do it.. Good find! Now with any luck you just got to find a replacement cap?

You can just replace the filter assembly
https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-255-2.../dp/B000V2W0GE
If I cant find just the cap, I will replace the assembly.
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Old 05-18-2017, 05:00 AM   #67
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Added a wall mount shop vac to the garage. Will reach the bedroom.
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Old 05-20-2017, 11:54 PM   #68
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Never thought I'd be asking this question,, but how do you control the fridge temp? Our fridge is almost freezing items.
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Old 05-21-2017, 08:45 PM   #69
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Never thought I'd be asking this question,, but how do you control the fridge temp? Our fridge is almost freezing items.
Which type of fridge? If it is a Norcold there is a little temp sensor on a wire mounted to a plastic clip on the cooling fins in the fridge compartment. You slide it up or down the fin to adjust warmer or colder.

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Old 05-21-2017, 11:56 PM   #70
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Which type of fridge? If it is a Norcold there is a little temp sensor on a wire mounted to a plastic clip on the cooling fins in the fridge compartment. You slide it up or down the fin to adjust warmer or colder.

Aaron
It is a Norcold, and I did google it. I imagine raising the sensor up, lowers the temp in the fridge?
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Old 05-22-2017, 01:11 AM   #71
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Here is a picture of mine, slide up for colder, down for warmer. You can see where mine is set. Freezer stays in the upper teens fridge right around 34°.

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Old 05-23-2017, 10:37 PM   #72
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Glad to find this thread, we'll be picking up our 2017 300tq next week sometime. Really looking forward to getting a chance to play with it. It really seems like a great bang for the buck.

1/243, you've been busy man! looks good and I'm going to be copying a few of your ideas. I was also surprised by your tongue weight, that seems pretty heavy. The salesman said the 1000 WDH would be fine, so maybe I'll be buying new bars for this one...
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Old 05-28-2017, 06:45 PM   #73
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I read that on the Norcold moving the clip on the fin to the left made it colder and warmer to the right. Did not make any difference on mine the temp never changed. I found that it ran cooler on propane than electric. Temp was fine on the 10 day trip we just took mostly on electric. Also the ore food you have in the frige the less likely for things to get too cold.
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Old 05-28-2017, 06:51 PM   #74
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The 10000 lb hitch was way underated for my 300tq. I went to a 15000 Trunnion style hitch and was able to move 200 more pounds back to the trailer axles and 100lbs more to the front axle of the truck. My tongue weight is not 1050lbs. I did add the weight of the hitch receiver on this weigh in to the truck which would be about 80lbs where on my original weigh in I added it to the tongue weight. Either way the new hitch did a much better job to transfer the weight off the tongue. Plus easier to set the bars as the 10000 lbs hitch I really had to crank on them to get any results..
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Old 05-31-2017, 10:18 AM   #75
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I may be looking at upgrading the hitch, or hitch bars myself. My truck is a little underrated for the fully loaded trailer. I'll be fine without the bikes, but the bikes will put me over. It's within my comfort zone, but the truck will be getting upgraded in the next year or so anyway.
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Old 05-31-2017, 10:22 AM   #76
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Since this thread seems to have the few 300tq owners that there are, have any of you thought about making a platform to bridge the gap between the 2 rear sofa's when they are folded out into beds? I was thinking one queen size bed would be nice for when we have friends with us. The 2 twins are fine for the grandkids, but the option for one big bed just makes sense.

I was thinking of grabbing some replacement table legs and table bottom leg mounts, and making my own "short table" to bridge that gap. Maybe cover it with some sort of faux leather like the sofa's. Then we could pull the mattress from the top bunk down. Not sure how comfortable it would be, maybe a separate thicker mattress pad would be needed. Just wondering if anyone he's had thought or tried this, and if your ideas were different or better LOL
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Old 05-31-2017, 11:24 PM   #77
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I thought about doing it the same way. Getting some shorter table leg and using some 3/4" plywood to bridge the gap. Make a cushion that will fill the gap. The cushion on the upper bunk leaves alot to be desired. It's only about 2" thick and not very comfortable. We don't have alot of guest but If I did I probably would replace the upper mattress with a real one and then fab the lower bunks by filling the gap...
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Old 06-01-2017, 10:45 AM   #78
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[QUOTE=1l243;52206]I thought about doing it the same way. Getting some shorter table leg and using some 3/4" plywood to bridge the gap. Make a cushion that will fill the gap. The cushion on the upper bunk leaves alot to be desired. It's only about 2" thick and not very comfortable. We don't have alot of guest but If I did I probably would replace the upper mattress with a real one and then fab the lower bunks by filling the gap...[/QUOTE

Why wouldn't an air mattress work? Place it on the rear couch/bed
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Old 06-01-2017, 12:30 PM   #79
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I have been thinking about building something to bridge the gap as well. I was thinking of doing it the same way with table legs and a board. Then I might cover all of it with a 2 or 3 inch memory foam mattress topper. An air mattress would work great too as stated above. It's usually just my kids sleeping back there so comfort isn't too important to them yet.


I think what's more important to me right now is replacing the mattress up front. I think I would be better just pulling it and sleeping on the board beneath it. Any of you guys replace that one yet? Is it just a standard short queen 60"x75"? I forgot to measure when I had it out.
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Old 06-01-2017, 05:24 PM   #80
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[QUOTE=Buddy Seymour;52217]
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1l243 View Post
I thought about doing it the same way. Getting some shorter table leg and using some 3/4" plywood to bridge the gap. Make a cushion that will fill the gap. The cushion on the upper bunk leaves alot to be desired. It's only about 2" thick and not very comfortable. We don't have alot of guest but If I did I probably would replace the upper mattress with a real one and then fab the lower bunks by filling the gap...[/QUOTE

Why wouldn't an air mattress work? Place it on the rear couch/bed
I am thinking the gap is too big. But would be worth a try... Might work in a pinch!
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