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Old 05-04-2017, 02:12 PM   #41
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Here are a couple of our first trip out. Temps got down to around 10 over night.
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Old 05-04-2017, 03:59 PM   #42
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That is a good Idea about moving the leveling jack. I don't plan any off road trips but if you did it could get knocked off.
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Old 05-04-2017, 04:08 PM   #43
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That is a good Idea about moving the leveling jack. I don't plan any off road trips but if you did it could get knocked off.
Casper I am impressed with your pioneering spirit. That looks like a blizard!

We had a unseasonably warm day here yesterday at 95!
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Old 05-04-2017, 05:07 PM   #44
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Casper I am impressed with your pioneering spirit. That looks like a blizard!

We had a unseasonably warm day here yesterday at 95!
It wasn't quite a blizzard for here. We were in the lower part of the mountains and only got about 8 or 9 inches. We knew what we were getting into when were going. I just figured it was a good test for the trailer and it will work out some kinks in it. The water going to the shower and toilet actually froze but nothing broke. The kitchen and bathroom sinks kept going like champs though. I had to move the jacks because I would have torn them off in the first few trips. All of my trips are off road and back into the forest so they would have been removed by other means if I didn't move them.

I also got my sewage line holder put in with the 5inch fence post and I installed my second battery. The batteries lasted pretty well with the furnace running as much as it did. I'm very impressed with this trailer so far, especially coming from a pop-up.
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Old 05-05-2017, 05:42 AM   #45
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Buddy or Casper have either one of you noticed low point drains lines under your trailers? They are usually a blue and red Pex line with caps on them for draining the water out of the low level plumbing before winterizing? I can only find one drain line under the fresh water tank? Every RV I have ever had has had low level water drain lines?
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Old 05-05-2017, 09:52 AM   #46
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Buddy or Casper have either one of you noticed low point drains lines under your trailers? They are usually a blue and red Pex line with caps on them for draining the water out of the low level plumbing before winterizing? I can only find one drain line under the fresh water tank? Every RV I have ever had has had low level water drain lines?
I haven't looked. I have been working on sewer hose storage
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Old 05-05-2017, 12:59 PM   #47
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I haven't looked either. I've been under there a lot but haven't looked. I had to remount my propane manifold, the one that goes from one line to four lines by the fresh water tank. The self tapping screws that they used broke and the manifold was just dangling in the wind. I think everything is attached with self tapping screws. I've been switching what I can over to bolts.
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Old 05-06-2017, 10:30 PM   #48
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I found them. Funny thing is I was working on the same manifold putting in a quick connect for the BBQ and looked up over my head and there they were next to the siding. Covered with some spray foam I did not see it before.
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Old 05-07-2017, 01:17 AM   #49
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I added a propane quick connect to the manifold so I can use my BBQ and Portable Fire Pit
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Old 05-08-2017, 01:20 PM   #50
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I added a propane quick connect to the manifold so I can use my BBQ and Portable Fire Pit
That's a great idea. What hose do you use for this? I'm tired of using the little spin on cans. I was thinking of T-ing it straight off of my tanks up front because I'm not sure if my grill would work if the propane is already regulated going to it. Will a regular camp grill work with your set up?
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Old 05-08-2017, 02:15 PM   #51
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I always use a separate propane tank for my grill. I like to keep it away from the camper for safety reasons
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Old 05-08-2017, 04:20 PM   #52
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That's a great idea. What hose do you use for this? I'm tired of using the little spin on cans. I was thinking of T-ing it straight off of my tanks up front because I'm not sure if my grill would work if the propane is already regulated going to it. Will a regular camp grill work with your set up?
I picked up this hose adapter from amazon. I haven't used it yet, but it should allow me to use a 20 pound tank on my portable grill. I also should be able to use the 20 pounder as a spare if I burn through both 30s. It should allow me enough time to make a quick run to town at least.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KR...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 05-09-2017, 05:07 AM   #53
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Second post first disappeared.

I purchased the female quick connect fitting from Camping World it came with a male fitting also. The shutoff valve offers a extra level of safety. All the additional parts I bought from a Hardware store that carries Mr Heater hoses and fittings.

1. For the BBQ and any additional appliances, you will need a throwaway bottle adapter fitting. This will allow you to screw your quick connect hose into the same location the throwaway propane bottle screed into.
2. 5' hose
3. Male quick connect fitting.
4. extra hose extension (10') with female and male fittings

For the propane manifold you will need.
1. Female quick connect fitting with shutoff valve.
2. 3/8" to 1/4" adapter
3. 1/4" female/male elbow
4. 1/4" x 1 1/2" nipple

The manifold plug is on real tight. Take care when removing...

This Mod will cost in the neighborhood of $100 for the parts.
Purpose, you will not have to bring along a extra propane tank or use those throwaway bottles.
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Old 05-10-2017, 07:11 AM   #54
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You might want to check the molding on the opening of the ramp door. When I was sitting in the garage I could see daylight coming through the upper left corner of the ramp door.

The molding for the ramp door opening was installed poorly. They did not miter the corners and the molding on the left side was not even with the top molding.


About 1/2" gap on the left side too much of a gap for the weatherstripping to handle.


I used Black RTV silicone to build up the corners.
Left side


Right side


Once the silicone drys there should be a good seal.
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Old 05-13-2017, 10:14 PM   #55
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Update on the ramp door seal. Although the door edging was poorly installed (mitering the corners would have been nice) The real problem is that on the left side the door opening is not square. At the bottom a gap of about 1/8" and at the top about 5/16". This means that the door gasket is barley even touching at the top of door frame and why I could actually see daylight in the corner.



The gap is good on the right side and along the top. So it was not a door misalignment problem.

I added a flange inside the door opening on the left side. Starting out at 1/2" and tapering down to about 1/16" This gives the gasket something to seal against from top to bottom.


This could have just been a Friday afternoon build thing and maybe your 300tq may not have the same problem. But if I would have left it it would have leaked for sure.
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Old 05-13-2017, 10:25 PM   #56
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Have you guys figured out you tongue weight?
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Old 05-14-2017, 12:03 PM   #57
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I havent, and I'm not really concerned about it
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Old 05-15-2017, 04:36 AM   #58
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I was just curious because my tongue weight surprised me....
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Old 05-15-2017, 06:35 AM   #59
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I was just curious because my tongue weight surprised me....
Yes , I remember you saying that. What kind of truck are you pulling with?
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Old 05-15-2017, 07:22 AM   #60
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I have a 1999 Ford F250 Super Duty with 7.3 Diesel and automatic transmission, 3.73 gears. I have a DP Tuner with gauges and a extra large 31 Row Transmission cooler. I upgraded my OEM truck hitch to a 17k and I have a Trunnion style 15k weight distribution hitch and air bags.

The 300tq tows fine I was just surprised that the tongue weight was more than my last toy hauler which weighed 3000 lbs more...

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