Show off your Mods

[calewjohnson]

Here is a Wifi mod...I also posted it in the Ranger thread...if you have any questions, jump over there to ask or just PM me, don't want to clobber this thread...

Ok, I have become annoyed with the Ranger, I did figure out that it is wired to the 5th fuse when counting from the top...so for now, I am not using the Ranger.

Now, here is what I have done today and I am getting nearly 60 available networks, granted, not all useable, but I know that my range is between .75 and 1 mile right now, because I can see the Travel Lodge network down the street.

I spent $21 on my roof mount. I used a toilet flange, flipped upside down, 12 inches of 3 inch PVC, a reducer from 3 inch to 1.5 inch, and 6 feet of 1.5 inch PVC. Attached the flange to the roof with #12 1.5 inch screws and Dicor behind AC #3, I made the assumption that I would have less wires to hit right there. I may pull the AC plenum down tomorrow to see if I can see back there.

The flange attached and Dicor.


With 3 inch PVC and reducer.


Antenna mounted.

I use an Alpha R36 router:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And an Alfa high powered booster.
Amazon.com: Alfa AWUS036NH 2000mW 2W 802.11g/n High Gain USB Wireless G / N Long-Range WiFi Network Adapter with 5dBi Screw-On Swivel Rubber Antenna and 7dBi Panel Antenna and Suction cup / Clip Window Mount: Computers & Accessories
One caveat, it says 2 watts, but the FCC limits us to only 1 watt. I tried to crack the system to allow for the full 2 watts, some countries aren't regulated, but I have not figured it out yet.

The best thing about this setup, it can be setup to boost cell phone signals.

By the way, the antenna is a directional Yagi. Any would suffice, just find one with a large number of reviews.

Cale

[Moto4play]

Here is my new battery mod! Two AGM Deep Cell and start Start. Built the box out of Plexi-glass sides and wood base and top. Added power outlets on outside of the box with a volt meter. Now I can jump them, connect a trickle charge and charge misc. items without removing the lid. Also with the Volt meter I will be able to tell if the batteries are charging at a glance.

[MartyG]

Very nice indeed! Even though I know AGMs can be mounted in any direction, I'm old enough to get nervous when they're not in "traditional" mounting! LOL! I like the voltmeter/outlets. Tell me about the vent. How did you size it? Does it just vent somewhere, or is air forced into it somehow?

[Moto4play]

Originally Posted by MartyG

Very nice indeed! Even though I know AGMs can be mounted in any direction, I'm old enough to get nervous when they're not in "traditional" mounting! LOL! I like the voltmeter/outlets. Tell me about the vent. How did you size it? Does it just vent somewhere, or is air forced into it somehow?

Yea, the pics turned when I uploaded them. The box is vented out the bottom and forced in the top. Not aware of it needing any more than that. Did set it up for a cross flow of air.

[MartyG]

Originally Posted by Moto4play

Yea, the pics turned when I uploaded them. The box is vented out the bottom and forced in the top. Not aware of it needing any more than that. Did set it up for a cross flow of air.

Ha! You're right, they are turned. I should have been able to see the liquid on "the side" of the plastic container to the left! So what is the source of the forced air?

[Moto4play]

Originally Posted by MartyG

Ha! You're right, they are turned. I should have been able to see the liquid on "the side" of the plastic container to the left! So what is the source of the forced air?

Ha, 55 mph! LoL, I guess "forced" was the wrong term. It is the same vent system that came on the unit. A flex hose attached to the front wall of the RV and two holes in the bottom. AGM's being a sealed battery don't require a lot of ventilation but can release gases from time to time. This is just what I have read, I do not have a lot of experience.

[calewjohnson]

Where did you get the charging/voltmeter assembly? This may be worth doing to replace the second crappy box that the dealer put in. They did a poor job at best.

Cale

[Moto4play]

Originally Posted by calewjohnson

Where did you get the charging/voltmeter assembly? This may be worth doing to replace the second crappy box that the dealer put in. They did a poor job at best.

Cale

Amazon, here is the link. The box I actually bent the plexi-glass with a heat gun and plastic welded the back panel on.

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Voltme.../dp/B00MODXVO8

[Thom]

Finally got my first mods done today.
1. Installed two Star light 1000 above each entry door (thanks to ATCGUY for the heads up on not working 2 lights on one switch!). Took me a couple of hours trying to figure out how to "unparrel" the two "work lights" above each entry for seperate circuits as both lights are tied together above the main entry door. I tried everything I could think of to get a second power wire from the light above the entry down to the switch panel but no luck. What I ended up doing was take down the TV and sound bar, go back outside with my drill and drilled through the space that the wires come out for the light, through the interior wall behind the TV, ran wire through there and caulked it. Wire is hidden behind TV. (please don't tell my wife! ). Spliced new wire into the light that runs to the rear entry door.
2. Since I didn't have a second switch handy, I moved some things that bothered me around in switch panel.
a. Took the under step lights lights off the big brown switch on wall by thermostat and moved the single puck light directly above switch panel to that switch. Now when I come in at dark, I know exactly what switch to hit without fumbling through the switch panel. I liked the mod of back lighting the switch panel with LEDs but this way I don't have to, I now can read the panel by turning on the puck light.
b. Took the switch that used to operate that puck light and moved it to the top row for the second "work light", which now controls the light above the garage entry door.
3. Then I was left with what to do with those useless under step lights that I took off the big switch, So I figured since the puck light above switch panel is now the light for first person in an unlight camper to turn on, why not tie the under stairs light to it for others comming in, so thats where that when. When I buy some matching lighted switches, I will move them to thier own switch.

Can't wait for my next mod! I think it will be to add a light in basement above the level-up control panel.

[calewjohnson]

Moto,

I am intrigued...I am looking at your pics trying to figure it out. Is that 1/4 inch plexiglass...and when you heated it, you did it sideways so the top and bottom are separate? I have a heat gun and three days off this next weekend. I am going to try to replicate your little project.

Cale

[Moto4play]

Originally Posted by calewjohnson

Moto,

I am intrigued...I am looking at your pics trying to figure it out. Is that 1/4 inch plexiglass...and when you heated it, you did it sideways so the top and bottom are separate? I have a heat gun and three days off this next weekend. I am going to try to replicate your little project.

Cale

Yes, 1/4" plexiglass. 11" wide and 48" long. Let it over hang the work bench and bend it! Measured 15 3/4" and drew a line leaving the plastic protectant sheet on the plexiglass. Lined the line up with the edge of bench and worked the heat gun on top and bottom and as the sheet started to sag, just apply a little pressure and heat until you have it bent 90 deg. Need to have a cantilever or opening under your bench to allow the leg to fold under when doing the second side. After you have bent it in a U shape, just weld a piece on the back creating a box. You could use wood on back as well, it will be against the wall. If you do not have a plastic welder you could use a soldering iron. It is like spot welding, get the tip in both sides at the same time and repeat about every 1/8". Will loog like a bunch of inverted rivets. Not as clean looking but it will be against the wall, not real noticeable.

Then I used 1x, set the box on top traced it and cut one piece to slide in the plexiglass for the bottom and the lid I cut to set on top of the plexiglass and added clips.

The plexiglass looks really cool when you are able to shape it. I also sprayed the inside with a tint spray paint. Just a light coat and painted the 1x with black. Used a 1x1 alum. angle iron to box in the batteries, to keep them from sliding. You really should strap them as well, I have not yet. They are over 80 lbs each, they do not move freely!

[calewjohnson]

Excellent!!! I think I will construct a wood base (2x?? with a plywood top), I can attach the plexiglass to the base with screws, attach straps for the batteries to this base, then lag bolt the "box" in place...The top will be like yours. This should be fun!!!

Cale

[Nana & Poppy]

Cale, it sounds like you have too much time on your hands......I have sooo many items on my honey do list but my honey does not like to mod.....wanna come to the east coast for a few weeks????

[Moto4play]

Originally Posted by calewjohnson

Excellent!!! I think I will construct a wood base (2x?? with a plywood top), I can attach the plexiglass to the base with screws, attach straps for the batteries to this base, then lag bolt the "box" in place...The top will be like yours. This should be fun!!!

Cale

I used actual 1x, you can buy it in lowes or Home Depot in the trim section. Some use them for table tops. I did not use plywood because of screwing the plexiglass into the sides. Plywood would not have the same strength. The piece I bout was 1"x16"x48" I believe it was $16. I used a 1 1/4" Self tapper it was less than an 1/8" in diameter.

[xhogboss]

Our V3605 has the four-seat recliner in the living room slide-out. Seems like every time we sat there to use the laptop or the tablet, we'd end up with power cords running over to the kitchen island. Then we'd have to step over/trip on them when moving around.

Some searching behind the recliner revealed a duplex outlet box screwed to the floor. It supplies power to the seat heaters and to the outside TV. I replaced it with a quad box (more room to connect wires) and spliced in a three-outlet 12 gauge extension cord from Lowes. The connector lies on the slide-out floor beneath the center recliners. No more tripping on cords stretched across the living room!

[calewjohnson]

Nana & Poppy: If everything goes right, I will be on the East Coast permanently starting in July...we shall see!

xhogboss: I have one behind my couch as well, did the backs come off the couch or did you just pull the couch out (unscrewing from the floor I presume)? Our couch is on the other side so we only have the couch plugged into it...

Cale

[xhogboss]

Cale,

The backs lift straight up off the base. There's a flap of upholstery that hangs down in the back. Reach under that and you'll feel a small tab, about 1/4" wide, that sticks out toward the center of the chair back at an angle. If the backs are hard to lift, move this tab toward the center of the back while someone puts upward pressure on the back.

[PNGento]

Originally Posted by xhogboss

Our V3605 has the four-seat recliner in the living room slide-out. Seems like every time we sat there to use the laptop or the tablet, we'd end up with power cords running over to the kitchen island. Then we'd have to step over/trip on them when moving around.

Some searching behind the recliner revealed a duplex outlet box screwed to the floor. It supplies power to the seat heaters and to the outside TV. I replaced it with a quad box (more room to connect wires) and spliced in a three-outlet 12 gauge extension cord from Lowes. The connector lies on the slide-out floor beneath the center recliners. No more tripping on cords stretched across the living room!

We have the 3905 and also have the same issue with power cords spanning from the kitchen island to the seating couch...does anyone know if there is a similar plug somewhere on the couch side (which is also a slide). If so, where and how did you access it...if no, then has anyone come up with a good solution. I was thinking of tapping into one of the two outlets on the island and running wiring to the base of the cabinet and putting in an outlet at the bottom of the island on the couch side...and then at least the wiring would be at ground level...but, if there is a better solution, please let me know.

[sundancer 87]

I've studied this problem from time to time on my 3800. Running 110 AC from the wet bay outlet could be done but that would entail removing the bottom of the slide to come up inside the wall to drop an outlet. I won't dare touch the bottom of the touchy slide system for fear of another slide failure.

Instead I've been mulling a different approach. I have the five fixture light thing above the table and couch. My idea is to drop the light panel and tap into the 12 volt DC wires. Run wiring behind the crown moulding and drop a length of Wire Mold down the side of the window valance, or down the middle of both valances and connect a small inverter to terminate the wires.

The inverter would be enough to charge the computer battery or the magnified work light or the solder station or do all three. As it is now it's a drop cord from the kitchen counter to the solder station and work lamp. The computer charger is long enough to reach where I need it to go but like the rest of us, it's a trip over cord on the floor or suspended between two points.

BTW xhogboss, great modification.

The hardest part would be dropping the light panel since I only have two hands and it looks like a five hand job.

[calewjohnson]

Originally Posted by sundancer 87

The hardest part would be dropping the light panel since I only have two hands and it looks like a five hand job.

When I put a pull string up to operate those five lights, I got the light panel down by myself, but needed another person to get it back up. The puck light closest to the front is the end of the run, while the one aft is the beginning, where they are all tied together. Disconnect the two wire nuts on the most aft puck first before dropping the panel, then it will all come down together. Be sure to have some extra wire handy, as there is just barely enough wire to make the connections. While I had mine down, I redid the wire nuts and taped them up. Also, of the 7 screws holding up the panel, 3 of them were not doing much holding (just spin in place), which was easily remedied with some Liquid Nails to the whole panel...It won't be coming down very easy next time...

Cale