Coleman 300tq

[1l243]

Exterior TV Wall Mount. I want to add a exterior TV mount to the outside of my 300tq Toy Hauler. The mounting location would be about 14" above the refrigerator vent. The problem is where are the studs.
When I pull the refrigerator vent cover and look at the area around the opening it looks like they used really thick plywood in this area but not sure. Also when you look up between the wall and the back of the refrigerator you see that the inside of the wall is sheathed and you can't see any studs.
Any thoughts?

[1l243]

On the way out with the 300tq this weekend I weighed the truck and trailer loaded and thought I would share the numbers.

Truck loaded but without trailer
Front axle 4150

Rear Axle 4000

With loaded trailer connected to the truck.
Front Axle 3950

Rear Axle 5550

That's 1550 lbs on TW.
Factorids
I am running four batteries on the Gen Platform on the tongue
I am hauling one Harley Davidson Touring Bike at about 850lbs
I am only hauling about 20 gallons of water
I have a 15k Weight distribution hitch with trunnion bars and two friction anti sway bars
I would be interested in seeing your numbers.

[1l243]

I am a little light on the front axle after loading the trailer. When I get home I am going to add extra washer and tilt the head so I can grab a extra link and see that does to the weights.

[franktafl]

Originally Posted by 1l243

I am a little light on the front axle after loading the trailer. When I get home I am going to add extra washer and tilt the head so I can grab a extra link and see that does to the weights.

Got any pictures of the hitch when hooked up and the truck with the RV? 1500 sounds a little heavy.

[1l243]

I do but can't post them here but I am not surprised on the weight. When tpwed it home from the dealet the day I bought it I stopped at the scales and the TWO was 1750 lbs. At the time I had a underrated 10k ADJ full water tank and nothing in the back of thd toy hauler.

[1l243]

Here we were on the Oregon Coast. Great weather and motorcycle riding...

[Kmurdock]

So question for you guys regarding the garage anchors....

I've seen a few mention how poorly they are secured, but haven't accessed the underneath yet to see for myself. 1l243, I saw your pics of the longer screws you added, and wondered how that's worked out for you. My concern was that the metal these longer bolts go into is so far from the floor. This would be good for any straight pulls, but any side pull on the D-rings would be putting that pressure on the floor board itself. And my bigger concern would be the ones that mount into that flimsy metal you showed. As you mentioned, if you tighten to much, you're bending the metal. That also means that the floor board itself might be the stronger part of that equation. If the metal is that thin, it can bend allowing the floor to lift.

I may be over thinking all of this as the draw weight on each ring may not be that much, but not keen on the idea of a floor lifting either I know on my enclosed trailer, all they did was put large steel backing plates directly on the other side of the wood floor. So it's completely attached to the floor only, but the steel rails are pretty close on that. Not sure of the camper floor.

Just looking for thoughts....

[1l243]

Originally Posted by Kmurdock

So question for you guys regarding the garage anchors....

I've seen a few mention how poorly they are secured, but haven't accessed the underneath yet to see for myself. 1l243, I saw your pics of the longer screws you added, and wondered how that's worked out for you. My concern was that the metal these longer bolts go into is so far from the floor. This would be good for any straight pulls, but any side pull on the D-rings would be putting that pressure on the floor board itself. And my bigger concern would be the ones that mount into that flimsy metal you showed. As you mentioned, if you tighten to much, you're bending the metal. That also means that the floor board itself might be the stronger part of that equation. If the metal is that thin, it can bend allowing the floor to lift.

I may be over thinking all of this as the draw weight on each ring may not be that much, but not keen on the idea of a floor lifting either I know on my enclosed trailer, all they did was put large steel backing plates directly on the other side of the wood floor. So it's completely attached to the floor only, but the steel rails are pretty close on that. Not sure of the camper floor.

Just looking for thoughts....

The outer OEM D rings are bolted through the floor and into the metal I beam of the trailer. On my trailer the bolts you saw in the picture were too short I don't think some even had two or three threads holding it . The longer bolts are 1/4" self tapping and screwing into some pretty thick steel. I don't think they can pull out.

The center d rings are screwed into thin sheet metal. I don't use the center d rings but I decided to beef up the thin metal with some 3/16 steel plate.

All that said I have installed the heavy D rings with backing plates on another Toy Hauler but it did't have a sealed underbelly and was not hard. I really did not want to cut through the membrane on this trailer but after installing A condor wheel chock and cutting through membrane to install the bolts, I was able to seal the membrane with some black 4" Eternabond tape (Amazon) It stick really well and you can hardly tell. So if you want to replace the factory d rings with heavier ones it can be done. I would clean the membrane before cutting of dirt make the cut as small as you can, install your backing plates and then seal with Eternabond.

[finsgm00]

I put a wheel chock on the floor, bolted thru the same metal as the D rings. I’ve traveled 1500 miles this month pulling a full size Harley in and out. No problems. I tie down on all four corners and across the seat. Rock steady thru distribution to all the D rings

[1l243]

I installed a Vortex II Fan in the Bathroom of my 300tq. The benefit of the Vortex fan is that you don't have to remove the entire vent and deal caulking and maybe damaging the roof in the process.

The Vortex II fan is 5 speed H M and L and H and M reverse.

I think the fan is reasonably quiet even on high. Better than the little obnoxious fan that was in there.

Fairly simple install there are some youtube video's that can help you out if needed.

Of course I had to make thing's a little more complicated. Because my wife in vertically challenged I thought it would be a better Idea to connect the fan to the wall light switch instead of the original fan power source.. The problem that resulted from that was If I want the fan on at night the bathroom light would have to be on. The fix for that was to replace the bathroom lights with with switched lights like you have in the garage. I had one left over from when I replaced the light over the dinette table and I had to order one more. Now on a hot night I can run the fan without have to leave the bathroom lights on.

I also added a metal bracket on the end of the knob so my wife can use a crank handle that I made to raise and lower the vent.

I had read where some were complaining that the fan would make a noise like it was hitting mostly on low and sure enough mine did make a noise. You could actually feel it in the fan housing. When I removed the fan blade to see where it was hitting I noticed that the fan motor was kinda looes in the plastic housing of the fan. I used a two small washers as spacers between the motor and plastic housing to tighten things up. No noise at all now.

This fan is powerful enough to bring in the outside air through the open windows that you can see and feel.

[lebowsky]

Hi guys, newbie here.

Have a 2017 and would like to know how can I make the furnace work without the AC working. The only way to make it work is by disconnecting the 30amp or genny, but for some reason the furnace went on until it got to the desired temperature and then it went off and never restarted.

Thanks in advance for the tips!!

[1l243]

If I remember right you cycle through the thermostat till it says (AU) For automatic

[lebowsky]

Originally Posted by 1l243

If I remember right you cycle through the thermostat till it says (AU) For automatic

Awesome. Will take a look!

What about AC and Furnace working at the same time when the thermostat only says "furnace"?

[Thom]

Putting the switch to auto should solve that issue as stated by 1l243.

[CSCLARK]

That would be the fan switch in Auto I do believe.

[lebowsky]

Thanks guys!

[lebowsky]

So, when I'm on 30amp the fridge goes automatically to electricity instead of propane, but when I don't, the light turns orange (it says "red" but is really orange). Not blinking or anything like that. I have propane (using the stove, furnace and water heater without any issues). I have leave the stove running for 3-5 mins in case there's air bubbles in the system, but orange light doesn't go away.

Is the light orange maybe the right one for propane and there's truly a red one when there's no propane?

[franktafl]

Originally Posted by lebowsky

So, when I'm on 30amp the fridge goes automatically to electricity instead of propane, but when I don't, the light turns orange (it says "red" but is really orange). Not blinking or anything like that. I have propane (using the stove, furnace and water heater without any issues). I have leave the stove running for 3-5 mins in case there's air bubbles in the system, but orange light doesn't go away.

Is the light orange maybe the right one for propane and there's truly a red one when there's no propane?

Do you have the fridge set to auto. Dometic or Norcold?

[lebowsky]

Originally Posted by franktafl

Do you have the fridge set to auto. Dometic or Norcold?

I think is Norcold but is always automatic. It only has one button which is on/off

[1l243]

Originally Posted by lebowsky

So, when I'm on 30amp the fridge goes automatically to electricity instead of propane, but when I don't, the light turns orange (it says "red" but is really orange). Not blinking or anything like that. I have propane (using the stove, furnace and water heater without any issues). I have leave the stove running for 3-5 mins in case there's air bubbles in the system, but orange light doesn't go away.

Is the light orange maybe the right one for propane and there's truly a red one when there's no propane?

On mine it's green if it's running on 110. Orange if it's running on propane. Red which I don't think I have ever seen means it did not light....