Coleman 300tq

[sgip2000]

Originally Posted by Kmurdock

I'm guessing it does make the ramp steeper as it doesn't look like they've got the full extra 4 feet we have with the ramp extension.

Correct. No more extension.

I do wonder if the sofas are different and now meet in the middle though to make another queen instead of 2 small kid beds.

Nope. Still don't meet.

Curious about that thing on the front corner. Would have loved storage area lights, generator/solar connector, etc.

That connector is for solar panels.

Answers in bold above.

[Boro biker]

I have a 2018 300tq. Taking it out for the first time this weekend. I do wish the overhead bed would still come all the way down to the sofas. If I can figure out how to make a filler cushion to fit in the gap between the couches, I may not use the upper bed, unless kids stay over.
I don't have much info on this unit yet. Planning to carry my Goldwing in the back. Trying to decide on the best wheel chock. I like the wide door, but wish they would have left the extension on.
I will give a better review when I return this weekend.

[1l243]

Good luck on your test run. I use a Condor Chock. The Condor can be removed when the bike is out. When removed there is only a small bracket that is permanently mounted to the floor and does not get in the way.

[lcv800]

X2 on Condor. Holds bike up steady even while you're strapping. If you buy a second inexpensive bracket, you can use it on a second trailer or you buddies can use it. Under $300 I think.
Rusty

[Buddy Seymour]

Camper pulls nice but noticed the holes in my hitch are now oblonged. Brand new 2500hd

[1l243]

That happened to me a few Toy Haulers ago. The reason was I was using a angled receiver pin. With the slop in the receiver and the constant pushing left and right from the anti sway bars caused the angled part of the pin to oblong the hole.

I had to replace the hitch on the truck anyway as it was underated for the trailer I was towing.

I fixed it so it would not happen again by using a 5/8" bolt with washers and nylock nut as a receiver pin. To stop the slop in the hitch I use one of these. It stops all the movement in the receiver.
Hitch tightener: no wobble, anti rattle stabilizer device for hitch accessories

[Buddy Seymour]

Originally Posted by 1l243

That happened to me a few Toy Haulers ago. The reason was I was using a angled receiver pin. With the slop in the receiver and the constant pushing left and right from the anti sway bars caused the angled part of the pin to oblong the hole.

I had to replace the hitch on the truck anyway as it was underated for the trailer I was towing.

I fixed it so it would not happen again by using a 5/8" bolt with washers and nylock nut as a receiver pin. To stop the slop in the hitch I use one of these. It stops all the movement in the receiver.
Hitch tightener: no wobble, anti rattle stabilizer device for hitch accessories

Since the truck was new, I unknowingly blamed it on poor metal quality. After researching, I have now purchased a hitch tightener and have replaced the stock pin for a straight pin. Evidently the bent style pin creates play at the bend, so a straight pin stays snugger.

[Buddy Seymour]

Originally Posted by Buddy Seymour

Since the truck was new, I unknowingly blamed it on poor metal quality. After researching, I have now purchased a hitch tightener and have replaced the stock pin for a straight pin. Evidently the bent style pin creates play at the bend, so a straight pin stays snugger.

I received a call from Camping World. Together we felt as if the Equalizer 1000lb hitch/10,000lb weight should have been the 1200lb/12,000lb hitch. So they are ordering the bigger hitch and it will be 2 1/2" so I can eliminate the sleeve.

[1l243]

If they are ordering it I would go with a 1500/15000 WDH. That's what I did. With 1500 lbs of tongue weight (which is what mine is) 1200/12000 will be under sized as well.

You should weigh your tongue weight and you will know for sure.

The brochure lies on the tongue weight and I am sure that is what the dealer is basing the 1200 hitch on.

[Buddy Seymour]

Originally Posted by 1l243

If they are ordering it I would go with a 1500/15000 WDH. That's what I did. With 1500 lbs of tongue weight (which is what mine is) 1200/12000 will be under sized as well.

You should weigh your tongue weight and you will know for sure.

The brochure lies on the tongue weight and I am sure that is what the dealer is basing the 1200 hitch on.

I did weigh my tongue weight at 1050lbs empty, and was 900lbs with my 800lb bike in the back. I dont keep much in the front storage area either.

[1l243]

I weighed my TW on the way home from the dealer empty and it was 1700lbs. (the dealer did have the water tank full)

I use a commercial truck scale. Later when I loaded my bike and all the gear in the trailer and upgraded to the the 15k WDH I was able to get the TW to 1450lbs. I have weighed in about four times now and the TW is pretty stable. I am only hauling one bike about 900lbs.

I can't explain the difference in TW between your rig and mine.

[finsgm00]

Some asshole stole my 2017 Coleman 300 TQ toyhauler from Banta Rd. Storage (corner of 37 & 144) this past Thursday or Friday. Indiana plates YFZ386. If you see my stolen toyhauler, please call the Morgan County Sheriff's office at 765-342-5544.

[1l243]

I did a few Mods to my 2017 300tq and trying out a new picture hosting site to see If I can share them here.

The 2017 did not come with nice aluminum wheels as the 2018 did so I added some. Makes a big difference I think. I learned alot about trailer wheels.

[sgip2000]

Originally Posted by 1l243

I did a few Mods to my 2017 300tq and trying out a new picture hosting site to see If I can share them here.

The 2017 did not come with nice aluminum wheels as the 2018 did so I added some. Makes a big difference I think. I learned alot about trailer wheels.

Looks good!

[1l243]

I also found a company that makes a screen wall for the smaller ramp door we have on the 2017 Coleman tq. The door opening is 72x60 and they make a 74x64 which works perfectly. Mounts to the top of the door with screws and velcro down the sides. It has a center zipper and screen windows on each side with privacy curtain. Not bad for $64 plus handling and shipping total $107.53

Contact Top Stich Inc
574-293-6633
I spoke with Candy

It rolls up out of the way. I use a 6" piece of plastic pipe to make rolling it up easier.
Inside


Outside






I might try adding some velcro on the bottom. Because it's rolled up it wants to curl on the the bottom leaving a little space for bugs to get in. A couple of well place velcro strips should fix that.

[1l243]

I added a Tornado Black Tank Rinse to the 300tq. Ideally you want to add the Tornado at the end of the black tank so it pushes towards the drain valve, but you can't get to the end of the black tank on the 300tq. So I added it to the side and about 8" from the end of the tank. There is just enough room above the metal tank support. Make sure you use the template that comes with the Tornado, you only have about a 1/4" top and bottom of clearance.

I was going to add a water inlet on the side of the trailer for a more finished look but went with the hose and bracket that came with the Tornado. To route the hose for a outlet mounted to the outside wall you would have to drill a 1" hole through the I Beam. The beam is 10" and probably more than strong enough to allow a hole of that size but since it was near the axle leaf spring mount I wimped out and went with the bracket and hose provided with the Tornado.

Make sure you use the Teflon pipe thread tape that comes with the kit. I also had to add a small clamp on the end of the hose to it would not leak.

I used black silicone to seal the Tornado into the tank.




Mounted to the flange under the frame I beam


Works great!

[Casper50]

Very nice work. I have been looking asy doing one of these but haven't got around to it. Right now i just stick a wand down the toilet to rinse the tank. It works pretty good but is not as easy as the tornado.

My next question for you guys is what is your process to winterize your trailer? I haven't done this one yet so any suggestions are welcome. I was gong to blow out all of the lines first, shut off the hot water, then suck the antifreeze into the lines at the pump until it comes out each faucet and toilet. Do you need any connections to suck the antifreeze from the pump or is it already there? I will also dump some into my tanks to protect the valves.

[franktafl]

Originally Posted by Casper50

Very nice work. I have been looking asy doing one of these but haven't got around to it. Right now i just stick a wand down the toilet to rinse the tank. It works pretty good but is not as easy as the tornado.

My next question for you guys is what is your process to winterize your trailer? I haven't done this one yet so any suggestions are welcome. I was gong to blow out all of the lines first, shut off the hot water, then suck the antifreeze into the lines at the pump until it comes out each faucet and toilet. Do you need any connections to suck the antifreeze from the pump or is it already there? I will also dump some into my tanks to protect the valves.

I blow out the lines with a portable tankless air compressor (VIAIR 450-because of it's small size for storage) then winterize the drains.

Lots easier when i want to use the trailer next time since I don't have antifreeze in the potable water lines. I pour some anti freeze in the black tank and grey tank also.

[1l243]

I do both..
Clean Gray and Black Tank to start.

Bypass and drain the hot water heater... Drain the fresh water tank.....Open the low level drain lines by removing the caps. Attach air hose to city water inlet (adapter needed) keep psi around 40.... Open up the faucets including the shower and toilet until water stops coming out.

You will need to get the antifreeze to water pump kit it does not have one. I also use the antifreeze hand pump for city water inlet. and 2-3 gallons of RV Antifreeze.

RECAP the Fresh water drains.

When using antifreeze I connect to the water pump and turn on pump. Starting at the bathroom I go through all the faucets, shower Toilet and finish with the kitchen sink.

To cover the plumbing from the City water inlet I use the city water inlet hand pump easier with two people one to pump and one to open the kitchen faucet. Since I have already done the bathroom with the pump I stop here.

Add Antifreeze to the P traps.

Open up the lover level drains again a little pink should come out.

When all done you can put the drain plug back in the hot water tank and open the by-pass and put the panel cover back on OR you can make a note to your self by leaving the panel cover off to let you know you will have to do that before un-winterizing in the spring.

The second best think you can to for your trailer in the winter is to get it under cover out of the snow, rain and freezing temps...

For Pump
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-36543-P...antifreeze+kit

Pump for city water side
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-36003-H...119J7G8PPVB71C

Air inlet adapter
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-36143-B...QN16F7MR7XNRKT

I also use Damp Rid and hang them in the garage bathroom and living area.. I like them because the are self contained and can not spill.
DampRid 42 oz. Fresh Scent Hanging Moisture Absorber (3-Pack)-FG83K - The Home Depot

[Mongo]

for the city water line ...I hook up an empty water hose to connection .. then use a funnel to fill the water hose with antifreeze...then hook the air to the end of hose and blow the antifreeze thru the city water lines