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05-21-2018, 08:36 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Salt Lake
Posts: 22
Utah
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Need to confirm my finding on hot watre heater plumbing
Hi all,
We started out our camping season this year without any hot water...I know,poor baby During my troubleshooting I think I found 2 problems. The 1st problem is I did not bleed out all the air out of the heater, the 2nd problem is I think the plumbing for the bypass is plumbed to always be on. The heater was replaced last year before I bought the trailer and think they botched the install. Any thoughts?
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05-21-2018, 09:57 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Youngstown
Posts: 712
Florida
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The way I see that set up, it is plumbed more of a water heater cutoff than a bypass. Looks like the intend to have you drain the tank.
If you had to bleed the tank, you must be getting water in. My thought would be open both valves, bleed it and see what you get.
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05-21-2018, 10:40 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Salt Lake
Posts: 22
Utah
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I will be doing a proper air bleed on it this weekend for sure, but I am thinking the red Pex line is just cold water into the hot water outlet. Am I missing something?
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05-21-2018, 11:12 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Central
Posts: 104
Massachusetts
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the way I see it there will never be full flow thru the heater even with both valves open ….
the red line that connects between the 2 lines needs to have a shut off in it ...so cold goes in ….. hot comes out ….
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05-21-2018, 11:14 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Tahlequah
Posts: 3,079
Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian
I will be doing a proper air bleed on it this weekend for sure, but I am thinking the red Pex line is just cold water into the hot water outlet. Am I missing something?
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What in the world were they thinking? The red PEX is indeed looped to the cold water intake allowing what hot water there is to circulate back into the cold water.
Cut the red line out and cap both stubs off or just redo both circuits there at the heater.
What happens is when the hot water faucet is open the cold water is introduced into the tank as it should. At the same time the cold water entering the tank is creating a venturi causing the 'hot' water to enter the tank again. It is definitely plumbed wrong.
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2013 Voltage 3800, 2012 Chevy 3500 HD
2010 Yamaha V Star 950
2009 Yamaha Raider
Volunteering with Habitat for Humanity Caravanners
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05-21-2018, 11:17 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Wesley Chapel
Posts: 3,086
Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian
Hi all,
We started out our camping season this year without any hot water...I know,poor baby During my troubleshooting I think I found 2 problems. The 1st problem is I did not bleed out all the air out of the heater, the 2nd problem is I think the plumbing for the bypass is plumbed to always be on. The heater was replaced last year before I bought the trailer and think they botched the install. Any thoughts?
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Should there not be a cutoff valve on the bypass line? Seems like the hot water would feed back into the cold input and mix hot with the cold going into the hot water heater. YUP, Look at this video, it shows a shutoff valve on the bypass. When you winterize that valve is open to permit water to flow, it's is closed for normal operation.
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05-21-2018, 11:23 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Tahlequah
Posts: 3,079
Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by franktafl
Should there not be a cutoff valve on the bypass line? Seems like the hot water would feed back into the cold input and mix hot with the cold going into the hot water heater. YUP, Look at this video, it shows a shutoff valve on the bypass. When you winterize that valve is open to permit water to flow, it's is closed for normal operation.
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Yep, my bypass valve is in the wet bay, forgot about the one at the heater for some of the RVs.
__________________
2013 Voltage 3800, 2012 Chevy 3500 HD
2010 Yamaha V Star 950
2009 Yamaha Raider
Volunteering with Habitat for Humanity Caravanners
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05-22-2018, 02:09 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Salt Lake
Posts: 22
Utah
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Thanks for the info. I was pretty sure, but needed to make sure I wasn't crazier than I thought I was I will put a shut off valve on the red line this weekend. Don't think I will be taking it to the "professional" that replaced it in the first place...
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05-22-2018, 10:50 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Wesley Chapel
Posts: 3,086
Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian
Thanks for the info. I was pretty sure, but needed to make sure I wasn't crazier than I thought I was I will put a shut off valve on the red line this weekend. Don't think I will be taking it to the "professional" that replaced it in the first place...
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Lowes has the PEX crimp tool on super sale (in the clearance section).
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05-22-2018, 11:42 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Tahlequah
Posts: 3,079
Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by franktafl
Lowes has the PEX crimp tool on super sale (in the clearance section).
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The PEX tool is in the clearance section so they can sell them out and replace them with a 70 dollar replacement tool.
It was done here last month.
__________________
2013 Voltage 3800, 2012 Chevy 3500 HD
2010 Yamaha V Star 950
2009 Yamaha Raider
Volunteering with Habitat for Humanity Caravanners
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05-22-2018, 11:56 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Wesley Chapel
Posts: 3,086
Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sundancer 87
The PEX tool is in the clearance section so they can sell them out and replace them with a 70 dollar replacement tool.
It was done here last month.
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I bought one, it's in the toolbox on the RV. Hope I never get to use it.
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05-22-2018, 12:08 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Tahlequah
Posts: 3,079
Oklahoma
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I bought one before I took delivery on the 3800. Lost the use of water in a TT because a leaking cinch clamp at the toilet. It was then the tool was priceless on a Sunday morning.
__________________
2013 Voltage 3800, 2012 Chevy 3500 HD
2010 Yamaha V Star 950
2009 Yamaha Raider
Volunteering with Habitat for Humanity Caravanners
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05-23-2018, 04:14 AM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Salt Lake
Posts: 22
Utah
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Was at lowes today. Did not see any PEX crimpers in the clearance section, but WOW they sure must be proud of them to ask that much!!! State Trailer Supply had a flare type fitting that will do just fine
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05-23-2018, 10:29 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Wesley Chapel
Posts: 3,086
Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian
Was at lowes today. Did not see any PEX crimpers in the clearance section, but WOW they sure must be proud of them to ask that much!!! State Trailer Supply had a flare type fitting that will do just fine
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Sorry about that and YEAH THEY'RE EXPENSIVE otherwise.
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05-23-2018, 04:38 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 573
California
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Try amazon, have lots of them at various prices. Just looked.
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Mike & Emily-Sacramento, CA
Our 4th trailer (2016 Aspen Trail 1900RB)
2018 F150 STX 2.7 Eco Boost
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05-30-2018, 09:21 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Dalzell
Posts: 714
South Carolina
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I have Pex in my house and in the camper. I never bought a Pex tool. In the few repairs I've done, it was easier to use a SharkBite or similar connector. Cut 1" out of the middle of the red "crossover" pipe, and push each side into a SharkBite valve.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-1...ing/1000182579
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05-30-2018, 11:24 PM
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#17
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New Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Arlington
Posts: 3
Texas
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I had similar problem, come to find out, I caused it,,, by leaning both hot and cold faucets open on the outside without hose/nozzle attached.
Since water couldn’t come out the hose, the hot water bypassed and hot water inside the rv was not even warm...
I closed the valves and all worked as supposed to,, my bad
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05-30-2018, 11:48 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Elberta
Posts: 114
Alabama
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Not knowing the unit you have,, but I think there was a problem with the winterizing bypass valve and they tried to shorten the whole bypass system.
But there is no sign of a check valve in any of this. Usually the check valve is near one of the lines near the bypass valve. Go to your model of Dutchmen and download the plumbing diagram.
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1996 F350 7.3L Turbodiesel
Dually w Banks Powerpack
2012 Komfort 3130
Livin the Life
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05-31-2018, 02:26 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Beaver Dam
Posts: 904
Wisconsin
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Wrong valves used. The two valves should be "T" valves. Turn the handles one way to bypass. Turn the handles the other way to follow through the heater. An alternate version with one "T" valve and a check valve also works.
===T==[ ]
……...]…..[ ]
===T==[ ]
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06-06-2018, 06:16 AM
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#20
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Salt Lake
Posts: 22
Utah
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I put another 1/4 turn valve on the red line. Amazing difference!! Lots of nice hot water. Heck I might even do dishes some day!!
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