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Old 05-21-2018, 08:36 PM   #1
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Need to confirm my finding on hot watre heater plumbing

Hi all,
We started out our camping season this year without any hot water...I know,poor baby During my troubleshooting I think I found 2 problems. The 1st problem is I did not bleed out all the air out of the heater, the 2nd problem is I think the plumbing for the bypass is plumbed to always be on. The heater was replaced last year before I bought the trailer and think they botched the install. Any thoughts?
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Old 05-21-2018, 09:57 PM   #2
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The way I see that set up, it is plumbed more of a water heater cutoff than a bypass. Looks like the intend to have you drain the tank.
If you had to bleed the tank, you must be getting water in. My thought would be open both valves, bleed it and see what you get.
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Old 05-21-2018, 10:40 PM   #3
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I will be doing a proper air bleed on it this weekend for sure, but I am thinking the red Pex line is just cold water into the hot water outlet. Am I missing something?
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Old 05-21-2018, 11:12 PM   #4
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the way I see it there will never be full flow thru the heater even with both valves open ….
the red line that connects between the 2 lines needs to have a shut off in it ...so cold goes in ….. hot comes out ….
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Old 05-21-2018, 11:14 PM   #5
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I will be doing a proper air bleed on it this weekend for sure, but I am thinking the red Pex line is just cold water into the hot water outlet. Am I missing something?

What in the world were they thinking? The red PEX is indeed looped to the cold water intake allowing what hot water there is to circulate back into the cold water.


Cut the red line out and cap both stubs off or just redo both circuits there at the heater.


What happens is when the hot water faucet is open the cold water is introduced into the tank as it should. At the same time the cold water entering the tank is creating a venturi causing the 'hot' water to enter the tank again. It is definitely plumbed wrong.
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Old 05-21-2018, 11:17 PM   #6
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Hi all,
We started out our camping season this year without any hot water...I know,poor baby During my troubleshooting I think I found 2 problems. The 1st problem is I did not bleed out all the air out of the heater, the 2nd problem is I think the plumbing for the bypass is plumbed to always be on. The heater was replaced last year before I bought the trailer and think they botched the install. Any thoughts?
Should there not be a cutoff valve on the bypass line? Seems like the hot water would feed back into the cold input and mix hot with the cold going into the hot water heater. YUP, Look at this video, it shows a shutoff valve on the bypass. When you winterize that valve is open to permit water to flow, it's is closed for normal operation.

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Old 05-21-2018, 11:23 PM   #7
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Should there not be a cutoff valve on the bypass line? Seems like the hot water would feed back into the cold input and mix hot with the cold going into the hot water heater. YUP, Look at this video, it shows a shutoff valve on the bypass. When you winterize that valve is open to permit water to flow, it's is closed for normal operation.


Yep, my bypass valve is in the wet bay, forgot about the one at the heater for some of the RVs.
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Old 05-22-2018, 02:09 AM   #8
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Thanks for the info. I was pretty sure, but needed to make sure I wasn't crazier than I thought I was I will put a shut off valve on the red line this weekend. Don't think I will be taking it to the "professional" that replaced it in the first place...
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Old 05-22-2018, 10:50 AM   #9
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Thanks for the info. I was pretty sure, but needed to make sure I wasn't crazier than I thought I was I will put a shut off valve on the red line this weekend. Don't think I will be taking it to the "professional" that replaced it in the first place...
Lowes has the PEX crimp tool on super sale (in the clearance section).
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Old 05-22-2018, 11:42 AM   #10
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Lowes has the PEX crimp tool on super sale (in the clearance section).



The PEX tool is in the clearance section so they can sell them out and replace them with a 70 dollar replacement tool.



It was done here last month.
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Old 05-22-2018, 11:56 AM   #11
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The PEX tool is in the clearance section so they can sell them out and replace them with a 70 dollar replacement tool.



It was done here last month.
I bought one, it's in the toolbox on the RV. Hope I never get to use it.
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Old 05-22-2018, 12:08 PM   #12
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I bought one before I took delivery on the 3800. Lost the use of water in a TT because a leaking cinch clamp at the toilet. It was then the tool was priceless on a Sunday morning.
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Old 05-23-2018, 04:14 AM   #13
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Was at lowes today. Did not see any PEX crimpers in the clearance section, but WOW they sure must be proud of them to ask that much!!! State Trailer Supply had a flare type fitting that will do just fine
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Old 05-23-2018, 10:29 AM   #14
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Was at lowes today. Did not see any PEX crimpers in the clearance section, but WOW they sure must be proud of them to ask that much!!! State Trailer Supply had a flare type fitting that will do just fine
Sorry about that and YEAH THEY'RE EXPENSIVE otherwise.
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Old 05-23-2018, 04:38 PM   #15
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Try amazon, have lots of them at various prices. Just looked.
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Old 05-30-2018, 09:21 PM   #16
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I have Pex in my house and in the camper. I never bought a Pex tool. In the few repairs I've done, it was easier to use a SharkBite or similar connector. Cut 1" out of the middle of the red "crossover" pipe, and push each side into a SharkBite valve.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-1...ing/1000182579
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Old 05-30-2018, 11:24 PM   #17
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I had similar problem, come to find out, I caused it,,, by leaning both hot and cold faucets open on the outside without hose/nozzle attached.
Since water couldn’t come out the hose, the hot water bypassed and hot water inside the rv was not even warm...
I closed the valves and all worked as supposed to,, my bad
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Old 05-30-2018, 11:48 PM   #18
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Not knowing the unit you have,, but I think there was a problem with the winterizing bypass valve and they tried to shorten the whole bypass system.
But there is no sign of a check valve in any of this. Usually the check valve is near one of the lines near the bypass valve. Go to your model of Dutchmen and download the plumbing diagram.
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Old 05-31-2018, 02:26 PM   #19
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Wrong valves used. The two valves should be "T" valves. Turn the handles one way to bypass. Turn the handles the other way to follow through the heater. An alternate version with one "T" valve and a check valve also works.
===T==[ ]
……...]…..[ ]
===T==[ ]
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Old 06-06-2018, 06:16 AM   #20
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I put another 1/4 turn valve on the red line. Amazing difference!! Lots of nice hot water. Heck I might even do dishes some day!!
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