First off, welcome to the forum!
I have done it on my 2010 Dutchmen Denali several times. The pin on top of the worm gear pinion would shear about every third time I would go out.
I am not sure if you set up is identical but it should be pretty close. I could never get those bolts all the way out either. Here is what I would do.
I left the truck attached to the fifth wheel hitch, with tail gate up and the gear all the way retracted. (I had the added benifit of airbags on my truck to lift even higher.) Yes, it will be a tight squeeze to get into from baggage compartment but most of the time I had to do it, I was on the road without my floor jacks....
No matter if you have jacks supporting the camper or not, here are the basic steps I used.
If you are able to have camper high enough, remove the adjustible section out of the leg, if you are not high enough, retract adjustable section all the way up.
Remove the bolt from the center of the cross tube and then from the end of the tube on the gear you want to remove, the cross tube can then be collapsed into it self and moved out of your way.
There should be two bolts (the ones you can't get out I am sure) that clamp the leg to the frame, loosen the nuts and push both bolts outboard as far as you can, the bolt should be able to pass through one side of the clamping metal and about half the width of the leg. Now you should be able to wiggle the leg fore and aft a little bit. If it doesn't wiggle, then try cutting away some of the massive amounts of spray foam around the top and and bottom of the leg and clamps, being able to wiggle the leg is the key I have found. Once you get it wiggleing freely, the top part of the leg should drop down a couple of inches and get caught up on the top bolt that is still half way installed. Now you might have to pry with a crow bar a little bit to seperate one of the two metel clamping sections but if you can seperate them even an inch, the leg will slide past the bolt. Don't worry about bendng the metal clamping sections, those bolts are long enough to pull it back into clamping action upon reinstall.
Now, if you have to work on the one on the drivers side, you will notice the totally worthless 3x3 (or smaller) access door for that side. What I always did was removed my propane tanks and cut the buteline (sp) tape on the front end of propane compartment and removed the 3 or four screws holding front wall in.... gives you enough room to get in there and work. Of course this side will have the motor attached so be sure to note the orintation of the motor is mounted because if you install it wrong (flopped over) your switch will operate backwards.
Bottom line.... spread the clamping plates a little and wiggle wiggle wiggle till you get past the bolts.
Hope it helps!
Thom & Rose
The problem child: 2014 Voltage 3950
The problem solver: 2017 Tiffin Breeze 32BR