Originally Posted by chiefboggum
I am assuming that by turning the valves that go horizontally will turn off water to the water heater and by turning the one valve that runs vertically this will then bypass the water heater for winterization? Any help is appreciated!
Yes, the white is cold, the red is hot. By turning off the inlet and outlet of the water heater, and by opening the bypass valve, you have isolated the hot water tank. In that configuration, cold water goes right into the red (hot water) lines. Water can then flow through both the red and white, but nothing goes through the water heater. At this point you open the drain plug (usually a plastic hex) on the outside of the heater, and let the tank water drain out.
Notice that all this talk has been about water heater, not water pump.
Now, regarding the pump, some TTs have an extra hose at the pump, on the suction side, to pull in antifreeze from a bottle, as a way of injecting antifreeze (the pink RV kind) into the pump, pipes, faucets, and thus into the toilet and sewer p-traps. This is so you don't have to put AF into the fresh water tank, which can take a lot of flushing in the spring. The fresh water tank can simply be drained.
Another method is to hook up an air compressor set to 30 psi to the city water inlet, and blow out the lines.
I just saw in my water HEATER owner's manual, that they recommend blowing out the bottom of the heater tank, even after the drain plug has been removed. I've never done that, but they assert there is still some water and calcium in the bottom. I'll try it this year when we winterize in November.