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11-12-2014, 04:14 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Callaway
Posts: 864
Maryland
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Hot Water Valve
Crawled into the basement yesterday only to see water dripping from a valve. I gave it a good 1/8 turn and now there is a drip every once in a while now. I have a pan under it for the time being, but I want to replace it. What is it and can I get a non plastic one...Home Depot?
Cale
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11-12-2014, 05:36 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Tahlequah
Posts: 3,079
Oklahoma
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Is there an arrow on it? It might be a back flow preventor, dunno for sure.
I'd give it another turn and see if it will stop dripping.
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2013 Voltage 3800, 2012 Chevy 3500 HD
2010 Yamaha V Star 950
2009 Yamaha Raider
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11-12-2014, 05:55 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Desert Hot Springs
Posts: 1,761
California
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I also think it might be a back flow valve like sundancer 87 posted. If the extra tightening doesn't work I would remove it & install some teflon tape & try again. Being plastic you don't want to over tighten it.
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Mike
2002 42' Monaco Signature Triple Crown tow 2014 F-150
2014 Voltage V3605 Sold 5/3/17
2012 F-350 6.7l CC 4X4, Sold 10/10/17
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11-12-2014, 06:02 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Tahlequah
Posts: 3,079
Oklahoma
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It's likely there may be an O ring on the white coupling side. Maybe on both ends.
Teflon will work on tapered threads such as NPT but I think the white coupling uses an O ring for sealing and not the threads. I had my water heater disconnected at the incoming side and sort of remember the O ring but no tape.
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2013 Voltage 3800, 2012 Chevy 3500 HD
2010 Yamaha V Star 950
2009 Yamaha Raider
Volunteering with Habitat for Humanity Caravanners
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11-13-2014, 02:43 AM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Costa Mesa
Posts: 10
California
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My 3005 is in for warranty repair for the same reason. Could not get it to stop dripping. Was actually dripping out around the low point drains had a puddle outside and water pump would keep surging every 5min.
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11-13-2014, 02:52 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Costa Mesa
Posts: 10
California
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What a mess it is under there. Notice my transfer switch just loose under all the water lines...
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11-13-2014, 03:30 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Dalzell
Posts: 714
South Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sclark1225
What a mess it is under there. Notice my transfer switch just loose under all the water lines...
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Hmm, bad voodoo! For now, shield that switch with some heavy plastic! I'll bet there was a guy on the assembly floor who didn't think the o-ring or washer was necessary. I'll bet it's that simple.
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11-13-2014, 04:48 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Costa Mesa
Posts: 10
California
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I hope so. It's at dealer for warranty work. I Don't understand why they do not Teflon tape all the water connectors or how you just throw a transfer switch in like that loose under the water lines. I hear water and high amp power goes well together.
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11-13-2014, 01:17 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Tahlequah
Posts: 3,079
Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sclark1225
I hope so. It's at dealer for warranty work. I Don't understand why they do not Teflon tape all the water connectors or how you just throw a transfer switch in like that loose under the water lines. I hear water and high amp power goes well together.
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The basic reason Teflon tape is not used on every connection is because not every connection makes the seal with the threads.
Tapered pipe and straight pipe need tape or putty to seal the threads. There are copper compression fittings and rubber compression fittings and O rings and flat rubber washers and crush washers and flare fittings and ACME/POL fittings, ect..
All these things are used to seal a joint or connection so Teflon tape is not needed and may impede the sealing process.
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2013 Voltage 3800, 2012 Chevy 3500 HD
2010 Yamaha V Star 950
2009 Yamaha Raider
Volunteering with Habitat for Humanity Caravanners
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11-13-2014, 02:54 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Wenden
Posts: 32
Arizona
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I had the same issue last month! First of all I removed the four bolts on the transfer switch and moved it. There was plenty of space toward the middle of the compartment and plenty of slack in the electric cables.
I then zip tied everything that was loose; wires, hoses, etc. I tightened the drip and it stopped dripping. l also rewired the original wire nuts with good one's. I finally photographed everything including the inside of the transfer switch.
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11-13-2014, 03:02 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 600
Nevada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danburke49
I had the same issue last month! First of all I removed the four bolts on the transfer switch and moved it. There was plenty of space toward the middle of the compartment and plenty of slack in the electric cables.
I then zip tied everything that was loose; wires, hoses, etc. I tightened the drip and it stopped dripping. l also rewired the original wire nuts with good one's. I finally photographed everything including the inside of the transfer switch.
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Pictures Please.
(No pics it's was not done) LOL
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2017 Dodge Ram 3500 DRW
2014 Voltage 3200
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12-03-2014, 03:46 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Callaway
Posts: 864
Maryland
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Guys, sorry I have not been on....I never received emails saying the thread was responded to. Yes there is an arrow on the fitting. I currently have a bucket under it to catch the water, as water will migrate to the electrical box *Transfer Switch) on the floor nearby. I am going to drain the hot water heater this weekend, pull apart, and throw some tape on it to see if it stops....
I will be redoing the basement next month. I will mount the transfer switch off the floor and move a lot of the wiring, the vacuum, and the sub woofer. Put a better wall up...however, on the left side near the plumbing, I will be putting a sliding Plexiglas wall there. This way, I can have a visual to the plumbing, then slide the door for access.
Cale
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