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Old 07-14-2019, 02:06 AM   #1
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Shower/Bathtub Question

Greetings Friends,

So I noticed my new Coleman by Dutchmen has a shower/bathtub and it has a gap between the tub and wall trim on the drain side. I think the tub has a lip and the gap on the drain side is done on purpose.

Is this accurate?
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Old 07-14-2019, 02:17 AM   #2
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https://www.dropbox.com/s/v0pzra7gek...90148.jpg?dl=0
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Old 07-14-2019, 03:22 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by PAbernathy View Post
Greetings Friends,

So I noticed my new Coleman by Dutchmen has a shower/bathtub and it has a gap between the tub and wall trim on the drain side. I think the tub has a lip and the gap on the drain side is done on purpose.

Is this accurate?
Let's hope the pan is lipped, if it isn't water is making it's way to the floor somewhere. If you want to be sure pull the trim and check.
Even if it is lipped a bead of caulk sure wouldn't hurt and help to keep that area clean.
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Old 07-14-2019, 03:52 AM   #4
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I have plastic surround walls in my shower, they are not tight to the tub pan. I don't think much of the design, but the tub pan does have a lip on it, so it really can't leak unless you're playing water polo in the shower. Those walls would worry me way more than that gap. I could never get comfortable with showering in a wallpapered closet.

My last camper had the same thing, I know it's supposed to be "water proof"

That's nothing a bead of silicone couldn't fix if it worries you. Don't even tell me that you can't use silicone on a camper.
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Old 07-14-2019, 05:07 AM   #5
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That's nothing a bead of silicone couldn't fix if it worries you. Don't even tell me that you can't use silicone on a camper.
I wouldn't even use silicone in my house! There are far better products that do a much better job.
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Old 07-14-2019, 02:53 PM   #6
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I wouldn't even use silicone in my house! There are far better products that do a much better job.
Now you're getting carried away. I've done many cultured marble showers, bathrooms and kitchens as a side job in years past, 100% silicone was the industry standard. People be acting like silicone kicked their dog
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Old 07-14-2019, 04:55 PM   #7
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We know the brand name of Dicor is the RV industries go to sealant. Much as CAMCO is a well known name in the industry.


If one is to search for the base components of Dicor lap sealant one will consistently find advertisements for Dicor products and how they relate to the RV industry.
Dicor products are good but they do have their limitations. Just recently I was on my roof replacing secondary slide seals. While up there I walked the roof for inspection of the sealant points and discovered cracks, shrinkage and open spots around roof penetrations. I have a few tubes of Dicor on hand so cleaning of the areas was needed before application of application of new sealant. It does turn black and is hard to clean and of course to remove.
It is advertised as being flexible but so are other sealants. According to advertisements it's the best thing since sliced bread. Cool, that's fine.
Silicone can be used in the appropriate application. Saying never to use on an RV is an overstatement. Silicone is used in a wide variety of environments including submersion in water.


RV owners do get caught up with what is shoved down our throats as the ONLY thing to use. I'll use Silicone sealants where appropriate and Dicor where needed. I can remove Silcone easier than Dicor products so that's not a concern. If my Silicone yellows or cracks after ten years then I haven't been doing due diligence in my maintenance of my RV.
In summary, an application of chewing gum used as a sealant is better than what the blind installers slather all over our RVs.
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Old 07-14-2019, 06:34 PM   #8
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Well I know there is a lip behind it so I think getting in and out of the tub/shower would cause the seal to not be solid in the long run. I think I will just let it ride as it seems near the drain side and there for a reason.
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Old 07-14-2019, 06:46 PM   #9
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I wonder how all those fish tanks I made held water?
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Old 07-14-2019, 08:08 PM   #10
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There should be some plumbers putty underneath that drain lip. I think you would benefit by caulking against that trim also to keep water from staying under the trim, even if it has a lip. I believe this is where some GOOD tub and tile caulk would come in handy. i would use the GORILLA stuff. You can't put anything over the heads of those screws since it will probably fall off in a short amount of time so maybe the answer would be to remove that trim and start over with sealing since water will probably run down the screw because of the angle.
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Old 07-21-2019, 03:56 PM   #11
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There are lots of good applications for Silicone caulk. I have used clear to make fish tanks. I have used clear and white to seal bathtubs and showers. I have used clear and white to seal TT windows, lights, and doors.


Not all those jobs worked out the way I wanted in the long run. Each joint type has special needs. Sealing sinks and sink drain fittings works better in the long run using plumbers putty. Sealing flexible roofing like on my TT works better with DICOR self leveling. Sealing TT window flanges works better in the long run using butyl tape.


Each application has reasons for what is used. Fish tanks need high strength as well as sealing to hold glass panels together. Silicon sealing plumbing fittings works well until you have to disassemble. Silicone sealed disassembled parts will probably have to be discarded because the risk of leaking when reassembled. flexible roofing will crack and separated where the silicon ends in contact with the roofing because the silicon has too high of strength. DICOR will let the roofing stretch and flex without causing cracks.


TT window flanges should have the sealing material between the flange and the TT wall. Visibly sealing the apparent crack add confidence it is sealed, but looks bad and looks worse with each passing year.


Plastic shower walls have the same issues. Marble and glass work well with silicon. They are high strength materials. Plastic is not.


In the bath shown above, no sealing is necessary. The lip of the tube should be behind the wall panel. The trim is decorative, however water can get behind it and create a disgusting mess. The temptation is to put a bead of calk around the top and bottom of the trim. This adds confidence it will not leak and cause damage underneath the tub, but looks bad and looks worse with each passing year.


I recommend pulling the trim off and inspecting the wall/tub lap. Repair if necessary. Common TT builders are not known for their consistent quality work.


To seal the trim, use an acrylic bathroom calk and keep it behind the trim. A thin bead at the top of the trim and a thicker bead at the bottom of the of the trim. I always try to get a slight extrusion of the calk because it gives me visible evidence it is sealed. Do not try to feather the extruded calk. That will look worse every year. Just leave the slightly extruded bead as it is.


Happy Trails to you!
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