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01-11-2017, 10:01 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Roselle
Posts: 1,292
Illinois
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Electric Valves on all Four Gates
Seriously looking at the electric valves (once again). Do you guys install them on all four of your waste lines or only the two black? Also, in the event of an electrical issue, since I'm not very power savvy, is there a manual way to work around them if there is a short? Thanks as always,
Rusty
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2015 Black F-350 Platinum Diesel Dually Crew Cab
2019 Riverstone Legacy 38MB (Full Paint/All Options)
2015 Voltage 3990 (Full Paint, All Options) Sold 6/18
2005 Harley Ultra Classic w/too many miles
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01-11-2017, 10:16 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Memphis
Posts: 1,616
Michigan
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I have the installed on the front two tanks. The other two will be installed this spring. In the event of electrical issues, they can be manually actuated, but you will need to retain a flap or door to access them for this.
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2019 Ram 3500 Limited w/ Max Tow pkg
2005 Cardinal 33LX
2014-3950, Full Paint, 17.5" tires, 370W solar, 3100W Magnum inverter w/ AGS, 7500w diesel generator, Micro-Air Easy Start 364 (x3) SOLD!
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01-11-2017, 10:54 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Roselle
Posts: 1,292
Illinois
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Thanks.
Rusty
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2015 Black F-350 Platinum Diesel Dually Crew Cab
2019 Riverstone Legacy 38MB (Full Paint/All Options)
2015 Voltage 3990 (Full Paint, All Options) Sold 6/18
2005 Harley Ultra Classic w/too many miles
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01-12-2017, 05:04 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Hopkinsville
Posts: 203
Kentucky
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Other than being electric are there any other advantages to having electric valve?
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USMC
2017 Dutchmen Aerolite 284BHSL
2017 Ford F250 6.7L
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01-12-2017, 06:01 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Sanger
Posts: 258
Texas
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Planning on doing at least the galley tank where the handle is located under the slide. For those that have done this, where are you getting power for the valve?
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2013 Voltage 3200
2014 Ford F350 DRW
www.facebook.com/VoltageToyHauler
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01-12-2017, 07:48 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Minden
Posts: 708
Nevada
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Should have power in the wet Area where the wire valves are, or you can add wiring from the battery area and add a fuse block
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Rich and Angela, Lab Dogs, Ruben, Ace
2015 Voltage V3895
2006 Lance Truck Camper 1181
2019 GMC 3500HD 4X4 CC DRW LB Bags Husky 26K Hitch Can Am Commander 1000 ATV
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01-12-2017, 08:43 PM
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#7
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New Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Lake stevens
Posts: 9
Washington
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Those sound like a really great idea. No more crouching in the rain to drain the back tanks!!
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01-12-2017, 11:51 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Sanger
Posts: 258
Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVNevada
Should have power in the wet Area where the wire valves are, or you can add wiring from the battery area and add a fuse block
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From what I've read, there is a 3' wire on the valve. I understand the control wire goes up to the wet area but is power being run all the way up there as well? I'm wondering if there is power available closer to the valve.
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2013 Voltage 3200
2014 Ford F350 DRW
www.facebook.com/VoltageToyHauler
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01-13-2017, 12:48 AM
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#9
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Sprung Leak
Posts: 3,157
North Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryD
Other than being electric are there any other advantages to having electric valve?
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They typically are much more dependable than the cable operated valves which are a poor design and prone to failure at inopportune moments. Also with electric you can mount the switches where you don't have to lay under the RV to get to the pull handles.
In my case I have one pull handle on the right hand side, and 3 on the left. By going electric I can put all the switches on the left side and eliminate one valve. I can also put the switches high enough up that I don't have to get down on my hands and knees to pull the valves.
Aaron
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There is madness to my methods
2015 Coleman CM16FBS(traded) 2016 Concord 300DS
2015 Ford Fusion Hybrid following along
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01-13-2017, 02:44 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Canon City
Posts: 860
Colorado
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I have electric valves on all four tanks. Two grey, two black.
The major advantage is the valve has an automotive style motor drive that opens the valve and closes it in under a second. So no cable to get sticky or fail. Just 12V DC and it slams that valve shut and there is no leakage. If eventually you get some leakage...who knows how long that might take...you can replace the flange O-rings.
Doesn't matter where you get power. Just use about #12 braided copper wire and you won't have enough voltage drop to cause a problem.
I wired all four of mine to the circuit that feeds the light in the "wet cabinet" from what I could find, that light was the only thing on that circuit. The load for each valve is short, and you only open one at a time.
Me? From the old cable days, I purchased a Valterra twist-on valve for the two drain outlets. Thus no surprises when I go to connect the drain system. Even after adding the electric valves, I kept the twist on valves in place...all the time.
You will have to remove some of the belly skin to get access to the valve and install them. I couldn't find black belly skin so I used home depot white. Cut the piece or pieces so they overlap the original belly skin by two inches and used 3/4 x #8 sheet metal screws about every two inches. Thus I can simply remove the screws and have access to all the plumbing.
Just how I did things.
Pirate
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01-14-2017, 04:16 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Hopkinsville
Posts: 203
Kentucky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wahoonc
They typically are much more dependable than the cable operated valves which are a poor design and prone to failure at inopportune moments. Also with electric you can mount the switches where you don't have to lay under the RV to get to the pull handles.
In my case I have one pull handle on the right hand side, and 3 on the left. By going electric I can put all the switches on the left side and eliminate one valve. I can also put the switches high enough up that I don't have to get down on my hands and knees to pull the valves.
Aaron
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Sounds like this is a mod worth looking into.
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USMC
2017 Dutchmen Aerolite 284BHSL
2017 Ford F250 6.7L
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01-15-2017, 01:04 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Canon City
Posts: 860
Colorado
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Barry,
Let there be no doubt this is the best upgrade you can do on an RV!! Period!!
The cable valves...the cable is not like today's motorcycle cables that have a teflon liner, can be lubricated and cannot be adjusted for length.
All the valves I replaced had 8 ft long cables. One end was embedded in the valve the other in the handle. So no access at all. And... the two front tanks one valve is 3 ft from the "wet cabinet" the other is 5 ft away. So you have all the cable just wadded up, yes wadded up, under the belly...so they begin to get sticky and fail pretty quickly. My front black tank valve started sticking partially open after the first outing...was a mess!
Pirate
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02-14-2017, 08:02 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Sanger
Posts: 376
Texas
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Good notes please
Quote:
Originally Posted by soonernation
From what I've read, there is a 3' wire on the valve. I understand the control wire goes up to the wet area but is power being run all the way up there as well? I'm wondering if there is power available closer to the valve.
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Whe you do yours take good notes @soonernation so you can help me do mine when I get it.
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Chris & Donna
2014 Voltage Epic 3990, 600AH LifeBlue, 1895W Solar, 3K Magnum w/AGS, 3X Micro-Air ES
2018 RAM 3500 Laramie Sport Crew Cab 6.7 Cummins, AISIN 4X4 DRW 4.10 Long Bed Dually
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