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07-02-2014, 06:50 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Battle Ground
Posts: 10
Washington
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No DC Power
I have a 2011 Dutchmen Sport and I lost dc power. Put in a new converter but still no power and I can't find an inline fuse between the batteries and the panel. Any ideas?
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07-02-2014, 06:54 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Desert Hot Springs
Posts: 1,761
California
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Do you have 12v at the converter?
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__________________
Mike
2002 42' Monaco Signature Triple Crown tow 2014 F-150
2014 Voltage V3605 Sold 5/3/17
2012 F-350 6.7l CC 4X4, Sold 10/10/17
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07-02-2014, 06:57 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Battle Ground
Posts: 10
Washington
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I don't have a voltage meter but I'll get one and check that
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07-02-2014, 06:59 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Battle Ground
Posts: 10
Washington
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I was wondering if anyone knew if there was an inline fuse between the batteries and the converter. There is a junction box but that only houses two posts where power is transfered from the batteries and vehicle lines.
I've also removed the ground from the batteries and plugged in AC, still no DC and is why I replaced the WFCO converter.
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07-02-2014, 07:17 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Desert Hot Springs
Posts: 1,761
California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gl111
I don't have a voltage meter but I'll get one and check that
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12V test light will work also.
__________________
Mike
2002 42' Monaco Signature Triple Crown tow 2014 F-150
2014 Voltage V3605 Sold 5/3/17
2012 F-350 6.7l CC 4X4, Sold 10/10/17
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07-02-2014, 07:40 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: kamloops
Posts: 2,152
British Columbia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gl111
I was wondering if anyone knew if there was an inline fuse between the batteries and the converter. There is a junction box but that only houses two posts where power is transfered from the batteries and vehicle lines.
I've also removed the ground from the batteries and plugged in AC, still no DC and is why I replaced the WFCO converter.
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Check for circuit breakers. My rig has them mounted on the A-frame just below the battery box.
An rocket scientist at work in the rv industry. They put them in the perfect place for all the road slime, debris and salt can splash up on them. Had to replace both of them last year. Just one more project that I have to get to, I bought a project box at the electronics store and the breakers will be going in it to give some protection.
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07-03-2014, 04:18 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Battle Ground
Posts: 10
Washington
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No dc power
So attaching the ground to the battery again I tested for voltage and noticed an intermittent chirp from the electrical junction box up under the front of the trailer. Power to the converter only occurs briefly every few seconds. Thinking I've got a short to ground....
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07-03-2014, 06:00 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Desert Hot Springs
Posts: 1,761
California
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Sounds like the circuit breaker is doing it's job. You just need to trace the power wire from the battery to the converter to find the short. Your on the right track.
__________________
Mike
2002 42' Monaco Signature Triple Crown tow 2014 F-150
2014 Voltage V3605 Sold 5/3/17
2012 F-350 6.7l CC 4X4, Sold 10/10/17
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07-03-2014, 06:52 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Battle Ground
Posts: 10
Washington
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NO DC Power
Thanks
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07-03-2014, 06:57 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: kamloops
Posts: 2,152
British Columbia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gl111
So attaching the ground to the battery again I tested for voltage and noticed an intermittent chirp from the electrical junction box up under the front of the trailer. Power to the converter only occurs briefly every few seconds. Thinking I've got a short to ground....
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Have you opened the junction box to see what's happening in there. It could be as simple as a terminal shorting out.
If you have a multi meter with a continuity test it will help you trace the shorted circuit.
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07-03-2014, 07:12 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Battle Ground
Posts: 10
Washington
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I did open it up but didn't see anything unusual. I am going to trace the wire back and open it again. Hope it's not beyond that as I have the membrane I'd have to open up...
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07-06-2014, 03:27 AM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Artesia
Posts: 12
New Mexico
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Hey gl111, you're kinda goin thru same issues I am goin on with my RV. You mention "two posts" in junction box at front of trailer. Take a closer look at what is holding the two posts. On my trailer, that IS the "short stop" circuit breaker, and it had shorted out. I replaced it with one from Oreilly's ($4.95) and now have 12 VDC to convertor.
Hope this helps you.
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07-06-2014, 11:40 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Battle Ground
Posts: 10
Washington
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Replaced that today. No change.... Guess it's headed to the shop
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07-08-2014, 03:31 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Artesia
Posts: 12
New Mexico
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Hey gl111,,,,your RV is a lot newer unit than mine, but in reading bout other RV'ers questions here, most units are somewhat similar.
I've received some really great info here, so I'll try to help you as well.
I don't really think you have a short between the "circuit breaker" or "short stop" as mine was labeled, and the converter,,, as that is a pretty good sized wire, (#8 or maybe even #6.) The "breaker" at junction box by battery is chirping tryin (re-setting itself?) to tell you something has a short downstream of itself and most likely the short is downstream of the converter itself,,,,OR the new breaker itself may be bad,,?? What is the amp rating of the new breaker?
I would ;
1. go to the 12 VDC part of converter and one at a time, remove all the fuses, carefully logging down what amp rating each one is and where it went.
2. Hook the battery up and check if you now have continuous 12 VDC at converter. Also, Verify with test meter if you have continuous 12 VDC across terminals at circuit breaker by battery. If OK, re-install first fuse and do this with all the other 12 VDC fuses, checking with meter, that you have continuous 12 VDC at converter, as well as at the breaker by the battery.
That should identify which 12 VDC circuit has the problem.
Hope this helps.
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07-08-2014, 03:52 PM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Battle Ground
Posts: 10
Washington
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yes, the 40 amp shortstop is located there and I replaced it as well. Still no DC so have called a mobile RV technician who has a really good reputation for RV's and electrical to come and fix it
That will be cheaper than hauling it to the dealer and I've exhausted my abilities on it.
Thank You All for your Excellent Assistance!!!
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07-08-2014, 03:55 PM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Battle Ground
Posts: 10
Washington
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I just saw the last thread about removing the fuses on the DC side of the converter..... I'm going to try that. Sounds very reasonable.
Thanks!
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07-18-2014, 04:37 PM
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#17
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New Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 1
Washington
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So, turns out I had a direct short on the wire from the junction box to the converter. I replaced that yesterday by removing the membrane edge screws and then drilling a hole in the floor behind the cabinets. Buttoned back up, termed both ends, and now have DC, everything working right. I did replace with 6 gauge vs the 8 gauge factory installed.
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07-18-2014, 11:26 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: kamloops
Posts: 2,152
British Columbia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gl3
So, turns out I had a direct short on the wire from the junction box to the converter. I replaced that yesterday by removing the membrane edge screws and then drilling a hole in the floor behind the cabinets. Buttoned back up, termed both ends, and now have DC, everything working right. I did replace with 6 gauge vs the 8 gauge factory installed.
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That'll do it, glad you got it fixed.
Have you determined what caused the short?
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07-18-2014, 11:40 PM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Battle Ground
Posts: 10
Washington
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No. The wire wouldn't pull out and at one point I know it was electrical tie attached to another wire set but my guess is that, as it ran up above the under membrane then up into the floor insulation area that it was pinched by a metal structural member somewhere during that run. I cut both ends back and wire nutted them and pulled the new wire.
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07-19-2014, 12:13 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: kamloops
Posts: 2,152
British Columbia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gl111
No. The wire wouldn't pull out and at one point I know it was electrical tie attached to another wire set but my guess is that, as it ran up above the under membrane then up into the floor insulation area that it was pinched by a metal structural member somewhere during that run. I cut both ends back and wire nutted them and pulled the new wire.
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That was my first thought, protecting the wiring from pinching and abrasion isn't high on the priority list.
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