Schwintec Slide problems!!!!!

[wildwest450]

Seal meat is delicious.

[sundancer 87]

Motorcycle dudes have this thing called a 'wrench party'. The idea is for a bunch of guys to get together in a garage to drink beer and hopefully fix a fellow rider's bike.

We should convene an RV wrench party in Indiana, some where up there where Dutchman keeps its brightest people.

Maybe rent the fair grounds and advertise!!

Yessir, I'm all for pissing in their Corn Flakes.

[hddecker]

Originally Posted by sundancer 87

Motorcycle dudes have this thing called a 'wrench party'. The idea is for a bunch of guys to get together in a garage to drink beer and hopefully fix a fellow rider's bike.

We should convene an RV wrench party in Indiana, some where up there where Dutchman keeps its brightest people.

Maybe rent the fair grounds and advertise!!

Yessir, I'm all for pissing in their Corn Flakes.

Yep, drink beer. Fix the bike, sometimes it gets fixed.

Why rent the fairgrounds, just invade their parking lot. No need to advertise, just tip off the newsrooms of every radio/TV network and the print media.

[calewjohnson]

I am contemplating using EternaBond around the slide, behind the frame. I don't think there is any sealant behind the screws that hold it on. I think that wrapping EternaBond all the way around would do away with the need to constantly put sealant on the screws.


Two RV's ago, I used 3 inch wide EternaBond on the roof edges, as Fleetwood had a problem with securing the roofing material. It took a good portion of the day, but when I was done, it looked nice and it NEVER came up.


Cale

[HudsonFrog]

Originally Posted by hddecker

Yep, drink beer. Fix the bike, sometimes it gets fixed.

Why rent the fairgrounds, just invade their parking lot. No need to advertise, just tip off the newsrooms of every radio/TV network and the print media.

Would definitely be Epic.

Also bring the bikes and rev the engines!!!

[hddecker]

Originally Posted by HudsonFrog

Would definitely be Epic.

Also bring the bikes and rev the engines!!!

Smoke 'em till the wheels fall off.

[lcv800]

Don't think we need to smoke them till the wheels fall off. Seems like they fall off pretty well by themselves. LOL.
Rusty

[hddecker]

Originally Posted by lcv800

Don't think we need to smoke them till the wheels fall off. Seems like they fall off pretty well by themselves. LOL.
Rusty

The campers do, but my old '93 Eglide is still tickin' like the well oiled machine it is. It don't even mark it's spot like the '81 Glide did. I got about 700 miles to the quart.

[ATCguy]

Originally Posted by sundancer 87

Motorcycle dudes have this thing called a 'wrench party'. The idea is for a bunch of guys to get together in a garage to drink beer and hopefully fix a fellow rider's bike.

We should convene an RV wrench party in Indiana, some where up there where Dutchman keeps its brightest people.

Maybe rent the fair grounds and advertise!!

Yessir, I'm all for pissing in their Corn Flakes.

Yep, been to plenty of them wrench & ride events. An RV one sounds like a great idea.

You let me know when & where, and I'll amend my schedule to be there!

[bennett]

Well, I tackled the bearing block replacement yesterday and it went smooth. One of my bearing blocks was completely broken and another was on its way to snapping. Once the slide is supported, all the screws are removed from the 'h' channel, then I removed all of the screws holding the tracks onto the slide. Using a cordless drill battery with a wiring pigtail, I was able to run out the 'h' channel and remove from the coach. Once removed, I swapped over a few items to the new blocks, lubed, then installed. It works great and I purchased a slide lock to start using when we are traveling.

[bennett]

'H' track coming out.

[bennett]

Motor retention screw.

[calewjohnson]

How did you get the timing set from side to side? The instructions I saw has you removing everything and laying it on a bench to set the timing.

Cale

[bennett]

Originally Posted by calewjohnson

How did you get the timing set from side to side? The instructions I saw has you removing everything and laying it on a bench to set the timing.

Cale

Each gear rack has to contact the gear at the same time or the timing will be off. This was done on the floor just by inserting each gear rack until it barely catches, then slowly pushing each one in and measuring to make sure they are each in line. Once one rack makes contact with the gear, they will all move.

[bgherman]

I finally gave up on trying to find a dealer to look at this so I went ahead and ordered a complete slide kit with all the latest upgrades. I only had to get the slide back in once to drive it to my shop but that didn't go so well. It only retracted about have way and cut out. I backed it in and out a couple of times while it made lots of cracking and popping noises. It was so far out that the front bottom corner was digging into the linoleum. I finally managed to get it in far enough to drive. The rear top corner was touching but the front bottom corner was 6 inches out but at this point I didn`t care. The install went fairly smooth. It helped to print off the Lippert repair procedure. There was nothing left that could be reused and it looks like someone had previously changed one H channel and the other H channel was bent where the gear block sits. I only tried it a couple of times so hopefully the ``upgraded`` parts last better than the old ones did.

[calewjohnson]

Originally Posted by mikesnider

Well, I've finally resolved my mystery of how the heck water was finding its way to my bedroom slide floor...

I traced the water entering from the slide top, where the vinyl top cover meets the metal flange of the slide's top facia. The water then followed under the top flange until it met and turned downward under the flange of the side facia -- and of course passing over its screws along the way down, causing them to rust.

The attached pic shows water on the INSIDE edge of the side facia's flange at the bottom. Note: the bottom facia is removed here.

That exposed the floor's edge to water, the floor swelled up over time, which then caused the bottom facia's seam of caulk on the exterior face of the slide to split, allowing the floor even greater exposure to water across the entire exterior length of the bottom facia.

To resolve my problem, I simply beefed up the caulk between the vinyl and facia flange on the top of the slide. Since then, no more water leak!! I'm now leaving the bedroom slide extended to maximize air circulation to totally dry out the slide floor. (It wasn't that wet, actually, but swelling was evident). The floor already feels firm enough to avoid having to replace altogether. Slide operation is working fine. But I'll continue to watch it closely (that water stays away from the floor) and hope the situation hasn't changed the structure of the slide such that the tolerances of its mechanics are exceeded.

At this point, I'm not sure what pisses me off more: either the lack of quality/care in the original caulk job, or that it took me this long to find the problem. As a newbie, I just assumed that caulk was visible at that joint so it had to be ok. Right? Not!

Happy camping fellow Volty fans.

Can you show me what you sealed to stop the water leaking? I thought I had cured my problem... I have ran EternaBond up the side of the slide, covering all the screw holes, cleaned the top, laid a bead of Dicor, then covers the seam and screws with a run of EternaBond...yet, I still get water coming out of the bottom of the slide. I have essentially covered every seam and screw on that side of the slide, yet water still comes out underneath that corner of the slide, almost like it is coming down the corner channel from above. Any thoughts??

My only saving grace is the floor is not MDF, but a black resin coated particle board maybe (??), so no swelling or damage if you will, just have to ensure the area dries to stave off mold growth.

Thanks,
Cale

[mikesnider]

Cale, I used "ProFlex RV" sealant on the seam where the slide's top vinyl cover meets the metal brace of the top facia (which I called the flange). I'll try to get pics up, but it'll take me a few days to get out to the rig (in storage). It was a simple fix in the end, but totally baffling along the way trying to isolate it.

[calewjohnson]

Originally Posted by mikesnider

Cale, I used "ProFlex RV" sealant on the seam where the slide's top vinyl cover meets the metal brace of the top facia (which I called the flange). I'll try to get pics up, but it'll take me a few days to get out to the rig (in storage). It was a simple fix in the end, but totally baffling along the way trying to isolate it.

Thanks, I have done that...laid a new seam of sealant, then went back over everything with EternaBond.

Looking at everything yesterday afternoon, I think the problem may lie with the rails and the small holes at the end. I have put sealant at the end and inside the channel where it meets the facia. I also put sealant over the holes.

Cale

[calewjohnson]

Well, mine has been at the repair shop for a couple weeks now, they are pulling the slide out and replacing all slide hardware. They weren't happy with the slide operation with just the bearing block replaced. They contacted my extended warranty service and explained to them and was authorized the complete repair...$4,000. They said I will not have anymore problems with this slide (I hope). The best thing about this is it will only cost me $100 out of pocket.

Cale

[joebedford]

Originally Posted by bennett

'H' track coming out.

I was contemplating removing my h-rail but it looks to me that they put eternabond between the h-rail and the wall. I couldn't budge it.

What did you have?

My rig is a 2011 3950.