Kodiak Cub Owners?

[floridabill]

Does anyone have a brochure for the Cub 175BH that shows all of the packages? The Dutchmen website reads like there is 1 package option (Cub Package) and then three exterior options. However, I am seeing other variations in advertisements I am reading online.

[barrieb24]

It would be nice to have that valve be in a more accessible spot!

This year I decided to use the compressor blow out method to winterize as we might take a trip during the winter and I didn't want to have to worry about cleaning out the antifreeze from the lines. I have a 6 gal compressor and made up a connector to tie into the city water connection. Kept the pressure around 30lbs and then filled the traps with RV antifreeze. It seemed to work great.

I watched a few youtube videos to see how others did it and to pick up some tips and tricks.[/QUOTE]

So helpful. Much thanks! I’m always amazed at how RV’s are made with important parts hidden Re: water heater bypass etc. I’ll need to open up my bench and check out that extra line for the pump bypass. Did you use a hand pump on that pump bypass line? Maybe I’ll just blow out my lines to make sure...

[Corum999]

Originally Posted by barrieb24

Did you use a hand pump on that pump bypass line? Maybe I’ll just blow out my lines to make sure...

You can use the RV's pump to suck the antifreeze out of the bottle and into the system by sticking that extra hose into the bottle. You just need to get the bypass valves set in the correct direction.

[Corum999]

Originally Posted by floridabill

Does anyone have a brochure for the Cub 175BH that shows all of the packages? The Dutchmen website reads like there is 1 package option (Cub Package) and then three exterior options. However, I am seeing other variations in advertisements I am reading online.

I do see the website list these:
15k BTU A/C IPO 13.5k BTU
Aluminum Rims with All Terrain Tires and Matching Spare
CSA Construction and Seal

The Aluminum Rims with All Terrain Tires is the only "option" I have seen at northern states dealers. Maybe the other items are west coast or south only? All of the items listed in the Cub Package seem to be standard for all of the 175BHs I have seen.

[persistent]

Corum999,
Thanks for the pictures. Your TT plumbing space looks much neater and cleaner than mine did.


You said, "It would be nice to have that valve be in a more accessible spot!"


The water heater bypass valve must be located close to the water heater inlet to function properly. There may be water trapped in the pipe between the heater input and the valve. That needs to be kept to a minimum.
Regards,
Paul Bristol

[floridabill]

Anyone buy a Kodiak Cub 175BH lately? Curious what the going price after discounts is these days.

[Corum999]

Originally Posted by floridabill

Anyone buy a Kodiak Cub 175BH lately? Curious what the going price after discounts is these days.

I am seeing 14k - 16k on RV Trader depending on location. I bought ours last Feb and used RV Trader pricing at the time as my guide and ended up paying about the same.

[TK on the road]

Hey friends - should I disconnect my batteries for the winter and keep it plugged it to my electrical outlet? Will they drain? Should I also consider using a portable heater set low to help keep moisture down?
Thanks for the advice

[persistent]

There are different strategies. I park my Cub in my driveway next to my garage. I usually have it plugged in and the batteries disconnects turned off. I check the batteries once per week and turn them on for 12 hours or so when voltage drops below 12.7 volts. I only use my small electric heater when I will be working inside.
Here are my reasons for this strategy. My Cub 12 volt converter maintains 13.6 volts after the batteries are charged. That is to high for long term storage. Flooded cell batteries will "boil". Sealed batteries may vent. You can add water to flooded cells. You can not add to sealed cells. Mine are sealed.
You can not get the best life from your batteries if the voltage drops during storage. Lower than 12.4 volts will cause sulfate deposits on the plates. Excessive sulfating will permanently damage the plates.
My Cub came without battery shut off switches. The camper draws a small current even when everything appears to be turned off. (about 0.25 amps) My two 100 amp/hr batteries last about two weeks before the voltage is too low. I added the shut off switches to prevent both boiling and long term storage at low volts. The fully charged batteries last several weeks with the switches turned off.
In Wisconsin where I live temperatures get below zero F in the winter. Batteries not fully charged will freeze causing physical damage to the battery plates. (not good). Humidity tends to be moderate in winter here. Humidity may be a more sever problem in other places.
Other strategies:
Use a 4 stage charging converter. It will monitor and maintain the battery for you.
Use small computer controlled maintainer. It works similar to the above
Use a cheap trickle charger designed for your battery type. Ok for flooded cell batteries.
In all cases you need to monitor water levels in flooded cell batteries. Water level below the plates does permanent damage.
Regards
Paul Bristol

[persistent]

By the way, the above also applies to other machines with lead acid batteries like lawnmowers, automotive, gulf carts, etc.

[TK on the road]

Wow that is a lot of info - thank you
I guess the first thing I need to do is get a battery shut off - where does it get installed on the trailer and is it hard to do? Suggested brand / model?
Seems like a lot to learn to keep the batteries in good shape
Thanks again

[persistent]

Any hardware or automotive store will have battery shutoff switches. I choose Busman 50 amp circuit breakers because they are weatherproof, high quality, and that is the maximum size for the wire leading from my battery.
The shutoff can be anywhere between the positive post and any other devices connected to the battery. That usually means very close to the battery.
I left the 12 volt self resetting circuit breaker, emergency breakaway switch, and tow connecter as they were delivered. This is so I cannot accidently tow with power to the emergency break turned off. I mounted the busman circuit breaker next to the bottom front junction box. The box is on the TT bottom inside of the "A" frame. You can pull enough of the 6 gage wire leading back to the 12 volt converter to connect to the new breaker leaving all emergency and tow connections intact. Run a new red 6 gage or larger wire to the battery.
This location is a bit inconvenient to turn on and off, but it is the easiest location for working with the heavy gage wire.
I also left the Furrion solar panel wired directly to the battery. If you don't connect anything to it, it will not be a problem.
Regards,
Paul Bristol

[persistent]

I started a new thread for Kodiak Cub specific modifications. I have included links to this thread where appropriate. This will allow convenient access for members like me who like to continue making improvements.
If you make modifications, please add them the new thread as well as here. Don't duplicate. Just post in one thread and reference in the other.
http://www.dutchmenowners.org/forums...html#post64769

[Kodiak Cub 123]

Originally Posted by Corum999

This is how the dealer accessed our bypass as well, via the driver side pass through. It took them a bit to figure it out. I think I will add a small door to that panel this summer.

Hello
I see it's been a while on this topic, but since I'm a new owner of a 2019 Cub 175BH, I've just started to do a few mods. One of the one I'm interested in doing is to mount my Solar Controller module on the front wall of the Pass through. There are two switches located on this panel, and I want to mount my controller next to these switches. I would like to access the solar panel prep wiring behind this panel, so I need to remove it. Does anyone know if this is as simple as removing the molding and undoing some screws, or is it more complicated than that. I also thought about removing the Furrion Solar Panel connector and splicing it in that way, but I'm reluctant to do so if the screws have nuts behind them and would fall behind this panel. Any Ideas would be great

[persistent]

You could cut a hole in the panel being careful not to cut the studs. A patch panel with screws would be easy to make.

[Kodiak Cub 123]

Thanks, I believe this unit is supposed to have aluminum framing so I'll see if my stud finder will find them or not.

[rob foley]

hi,, im new to this forum and camping with a trailer,, we have a 2018 Kodiak cub rd,, does anyone know where the water heater bypass valve is on this type of unit.,, lol ill have lots of questions as the year goes on.

[persistent]

Originally Posted by rob foley

hi,, im new to this forum and camping with a trailer,, we have a 2018 Kodiak cub rd,, does anyone know where the water heater bypass valve is on this type of unit.,, lol ill have lots of questions as the year goes on.

I have the same model and year. Mine is accessed through the driver side pass through. Two panels are screwed together and to the floor just to the rear of the access door. It is on the back side of the water heater.

[rob foley]

i,, i just found mine, lower left panel beside the bed, mine had four screws holding the panel the pump on mine is inside there. turn on your pump for a second listen for the noise.

[rob foley]

hi,, i found my water pump to the left lower side of the bed, i see one valve beside the water pump, i hope thats all there is. lol