Kodiak Cub Modifications - Dutchmen Owners

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Old 11-14-2018, 04:52 PM   #1
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Cool Kodiak Cub Modifications

This thread is for Kodiak Cub specific modifications. Includes what modifications and why. How to make specific modification. Pictures are strongly requested. Please state your model and year when appropriate.
It is not for repairs or maintenance unless they include modifications to prevent or eliminate need for repairs or maintenance.
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Old 11-14-2018, 04:59 PM   #2
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Battery Cut Off on Cub

Use this link to this forum to see how to add a battery cutoff switch on a Kodiak Cub 176RD 2018
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Old 11-14-2018, 05:19 PM   #3
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Water Heater Bypass Access Door

I modified access to my Kodiak Cub 176RD 22018 to allow easy access to the water heater bypass valve. Use this link to see how another forum member modified his Cub by adding a hinged door.
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Post number 31
I also put closed cell foam pieces in the spaces above the new door panel. The utility pass-through gets cold. It has no heater in that space. The pass-through connects to the water utility space containing water pump, shower, and lavatory as well as the water heater pipes. There is no heat in any of that area.
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Old 11-14-2018, 06:21 PM   #4
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Kitchen Drawer

I modified my Cub 176RD 2018 kitchen drawer to increase it's length. The original was too short to put cooking utensils in.
The kitchen drawer slides were good quality. The front drawer panel and handle matched the other cabinetry. I reused them and built a longer box. I made the new drawer box exactly the same width as the original. The new one I made 15 inches long. It could be made longer if desired. 15 inches is the pull length of the slides.
See this link for a picture:
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Old 11-14-2018, 07:39 PM   #5
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Access Door for adding Antifreeze to Plumbing

I converted the screw on panel that covers the water pump compartment, to a door that allows quick and easy access to the valve and hose used to pump antifreeze into the plumbing for freeze protection.
The panel is the bottom front of the drivers side bedside cabinet. This is for the Cub 176RD 2018 model. The 2019 model of the "RD" floor plan may not have this cabinet. The panel comes attached by 4 screws. The access hole behind the screw on panel is rough cut through a stapled panel.
The modification requires a hinge, cabinet latch, and pull knob or handle. I used a hardware store brushed nickel knob and a magnetic catch. I built my own hinge from the stapled panel and two small pieces of pine.
The two pine hinge pieces are "Z" shaped and screwed to the formerly screwed on panel. The "Z" slips behind the stapled panel leaving no visible trace on the exposed front. The magnetic catch is attached to the other edge of the formerly screwed on panel along with the knob.
Sorry all the pics are sideways.
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Old 11-14-2018, 08:29 PM   #6
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True 4 Season Camper

The Kodiak Cub is advertised as a four season travel trailer with an enclosed and heated underbelly. It is not! It is true you can use it in the winter season, but not the plumbing. The user manual requires a winterization procedure whenever temperatures are below 32 degrees whether the furnace is running or not.
The "RD" floor plan has hot and cold pipe to the kitchen running under the floor. It froze within 2 hours of temperature drop from 34 to 29 degrees F. The furnace was running and TT had 50 gallons of 50 degree water in it. The fresh tank temperature dropped to 32 degrees F after two days.
I modified mine to be able to use the plumbing in freezing weather. I tested and dry camped in it for up to 5 days and down to 20 degrees F. I will further test it this coming winter.
Summary of Underbelly Modifications:
1) Remove plastic belly cover. (It was nailed on.)
2) Seal Frame to floor crack all around. I could see light through the space between them.
3) Insulate the steel frame making up the side of the belly with Styrofoam board.
4) Insulate cross member with Styrofoam board and seal access holes ahead and behind the sections containing plumbing.
5) Tying up wires and padding sharp edges at this time will probably prevent future wiring problems.
6) Use compressible insulation like fiberglass pad to insulate the bottom of the plumbing sections.
7 ) Cut the hole through the floor where the 2" duct from the furnace was attached. Yes. the duct was too small. Yes, the duct was attached to the floor but not cut through. (not necessary if you will increase the duct size to 4" and move it to a better location as I did)
8) Add tank heating pads and wiring for same. If you are going to use shore power to live in the TT you should also use pipe heaters on tank drains and any pipes in that space. I did not. I it may freeze when using tank heaters.
9) Replace the bottom cover with hundreds of large self drilling screws and large fender washers.
10) Seal the crack between the bottom cover and the frame wherever openings appear and around anything that penetrates the cover with expanding foam insulation.


All of the above work was done by my dealer. The cost was about $2,200. The dealer paid for this work. Dutchman paid $300 under warranty. I do not have good pictures of the work.

Continued in following posts...
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Old 11-14-2018, 10:19 PM   #7
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Inside the belly

I found some bottom inside the belly pictures.
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Old 11-18-2018, 02:01 AM   #8
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Part II Mod for winter camping

These are additional steps necessary to protect plumbing in winter. Kodiak Cub 176RD (rear dinette) 2018
Furnace return air used to keep driver's side plumbing space warm.
1) Ventilate water pump space. Added a 4 inch round vent in the panel covering to allow are into the otherwise unheated space.
2) Ventilate shower and vanity plumbing space. Added a 4 inch round vent in the panel under the tub/shower.
3) Increased the size of the furnace underbelly heat duct from 2" to 4". The under belly space holding the fresh, black, and gray tanks already have a 6" diameter hole in the floor under the tub/shower. Air now flows from furnace to belly and back into driver's side plumbing space.
4) Insulated the two steel wheel wells using 1" foil backed fiberglass insulation.
5) Sealed the top of water heater space panels in the pass through and added 1" foam board insulation to the panels.
6) Opened bulkheads between unheated plumbing spaces, electrical cabinet, and under-seat dinette spaces to provide 30 sq in. of air flow back and around the rear back to the kitchen cabinet where the furnace return air is. The two vents and the underbelly air now flow back to the furnace.
Testing the temperature of the air flowing out of the underbelly into the space under tub/shower shows 45 degrees F when outside is 32 F, and again at 20 F. It is stable while furnace is set to 60 degrees.
The plumbing worked fine on two camping trips where night time temperatures dropped to 20 F. Tank dumping was done during the day when temperatures were above freezing. Further winter camping is planned for the 2018-2019 winter in Wisconsin. I am keeping a hair dryer in the camper incase I need to thaw dump valves.

Lucky I am retired and can spend unlimited hours doing these labor intensive modifications.
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