Bathroom floor vent in 3895 and probably other models - Page 2 - Dutchmen Owners

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Old 11-17-2015, 04:13 PM   #11
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Great feedback...

I looked all over for a metal floor register last year and the plastic one at the RV Supply was all I could find. I guess since most new construction in West Texas is a concrete slab on grade the stores just don't carry floor registers.

Plan A is to use the metal floor register mention above that I did find online at Home Depot. While I was browsing I ran across some HVAC round metal reducers / adapters. I'm going see if I can use these as suggested to swap the large bathroom feed for the smaller bedroom feed and see if that will even out the air flow???

Plan B is to cap the bathroom feed. With this Temp Limit Switch it sounds like if I go to Plan B I'll still need to re direct the air flow.

Thanks all...

I've got to get this fixed if I expect DW to live in the trailer all winter while we wait on our new house to be built.
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Old 11-17-2015, 04:31 PM   #12
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Concerning your Plan A, I wonder how hot that metal floor vent will be? I know the floor is pretty warm, I can only imagine how heat soaked the vent would get while having hot air blow through it. I would be mindful of stepping on it.

Cale
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Old 11-17-2015, 08:42 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by dougs2 View Post
Cale, you are correct about the temperature limit switch, I have a friend that covered the bathroom heat vent and it knocked out that switch. They were on an overnight stay while traveling and had to take it the CW to get it replaced and it cost them a couple extra days on the road.
I guess I've been lucky, our bedroom vent has been closed for ever, we like a very cool bedroom.

The saving grace must be the way the genius engineer or desiger layed out the heat vents, they put one right below the thermostat. Wish I would have thought about it when I had the bellypan down, I would have added another spill air into the belly right below the bedroom vent.
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Old 11-17-2015, 09:21 PM   #14
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I just finished the bathroom mod. I now have hot air blowing the dish towel that hangs on the oven door and the air flow has most definitely increased, even a tad more to the garage. More air flow into the bedroom vent also.


I took a Dinty Moore 20 oz. beef stew can and cut the bottom out of it. The can bottom is almost the same size as the duct coming up to the register.
I cut strips from the can itself and screwed them to the can bottom. Dry fitted the bottom and strips over the duct opening and bent the strips so they would set the bottom slightly above the duct and slightly off center as well.
Bent the strips 90 degrees to the transition so the can bottom was above the opening and drilled holes in the transition. Screwed the strips down and replaced the register.


I can adjust the air flow if necessary but I think I'll leave it as is until it gets really cold.


Photos coming tomorrow. Besides the pix I want to do an air flow test with and without the can bottom in place.
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Old 11-18-2015, 02:26 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by calewjohnson View Post
Concerning your Plan A, I wonder how hot that metal floor vent will be? I know the floor is pretty warm, I can only imagine how heat soaked the vent would get while having hot air blow through it. I would be mindful of stepping on it.

Cale

Cale, I'm the one that advised against plastic based on personal experience. Melted the crap out of register and deformed the vinyl flooring when I tried it. I was concerned that metal would get hotter and burn s*it up. My plan was to reroute and resize ducting. Good web site that sells all materials.

Mark
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Old 11-18-2015, 03:37 PM   #16
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Think it's best when dealing with bathroom to hot and bedroom to cold to deal with the T connection. Been gone for a month eager when I get home to resolve this. Perhaps as mentioned previously simply change lines around. Bathroom is a lot smaller than bedroom!!
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Old 11-18-2015, 03:52 PM   #17
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Cale, I'm the one that advised against plastic based on personal experience. Melted the crap out of register and deformed the vinyl flooring when I tried it. I was concerned that metal would get hotter and burn s*it up. My plan was to reroute and resize ducting. Good web site that sells all materials.

Mark
I find that the plastic registers get hot enough to make it uncomfortable to step on in bare feet.

Metal can get hot enough to cause blisters, particularly in the little feet that run around in the camper.

The wooden registers get warm, but not blistering hot. But now you have me thinking that I better start checking the temps, I don't need them going up in flames.
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