Wheel bearing seals goneI just pulled two tires off and seals are gone and brakes are - Dutchmen Owners

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Old 06-17-2019, 03:42 AM   #1
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Wheel bearing seals goneI just pulled two tires off and seals are gone and brakes are

My 2017 voltage toy hauler seals are gone.
I just pulled two tires off and seals are gone and brakes are covered with grease. I’ve got to find new seals and repack bearings. Of course I’m disappointed that the seals are gone my trailer it doesn’t have 7,000 miles on it. If I can figure out how I will post pictures. Also I’ve got to figure out how the electro magnet is fastened. Mine doesn’t have anything holding it on the shaft it just totally floats. Maybe one is not required. I hope to go from San Diego to Rochester NY next week. I haven’t pulled the other tires off yet I will tomorrow after I get seals.
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Old 06-17-2019, 05:10 AM   #2
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Sounds like your inner seals were never there. With the wheels installed there is no place for your inner seals to go. Wear out, maybe, or get damaged but there will be remains. Plus you'll need new brake shoes. And don't ever use the zerk fitting to fill your spindle with grease as that's how it blows past your seals and onto your brakes. good luck.
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Old 06-18-2019, 02:49 PM   #3
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Seals are there. I just finished repacking bearings. I lost the blog where somebody told the torque for the axel nut. It was a great article,. I have always tightened till I could see drag then backed off enough to get cotter key in.
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Old 06-22-2019, 08:42 PM   #4
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Seals are there. I just finished repacking bearings. I lost the blog where somebody told the torque for the axel nut. It was a great article,. I have always tightened till I could see drag then backed off enough to get cotter key in.

That is pretty much all you have to do. Set some drag, then back off until they spin smoothly and freely. Rather be a bit loose than too tight.
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Old 06-23-2019, 01:04 PM   #5
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From Champion Trailer
Whenever you install new hubs or new bearings and races into an old hub, you should pre-load the bearings. Pre-loading the bearings assures that the races in the hubs are 100% in place against their machined stop points and keeps the hub from wobbling after a few miles.

To pre-load the bearings, install the spindle washer and spindle nut onto the spindle with the hub and bearings in place.

Tighten the spindle nut finger tight (until snug) and then with channel-lock pliers or a crescent wrench, tighten the spindle nut another 1/4 turn or about 15 to 20 ft pounds of torque.

Now turn the hub ten revolutions. This will fully seat the races.
Now loosen the spindle nut very loose, then re-snug to finger tight, and engage the nut retaining device (some reverse lubricating spindles use a tab washer for the retaining device).

I personally found 20 was too much and shoot for 17/18.
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Old 06-23-2019, 01:44 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by davesullivansr@gmail.com View Post
From Champion Trailer
Whenever you install new hubs or new bearings and races into an old hub, you should pre-load the bearings. Pre-loading the bearings assures that the races in the hubs are 100% in place against their machined stop points and keeps the hub from wobbling after a few miles.

To pre-load the bearings, install the spindle washer and spindle nut onto the spindle with the hub and bearings in place.

Tighten the spindle nut finger tight (until snug) and then with channel-lock pliers or a crescent wrench, tighten the spindle nut another 1/4 turn or about 15 to 20 ft pounds of torque.

Now turn the hub ten revolutions. This will fully seat the races.
Now loosen the spindle nut very loose, then re-snug to finger tight, and engage the nut retaining device (some reverse lubricating spindles use a tab washer for the retaining device).

I personally found 20 was too much and shoot for 17/18.

Dunno about all that process. The races should be firmly seated in their seats when they are installed by the time worn process, not by using the bearing to seat them. Tighten the castle nut to seat the bearings while turning the the drum. Back off the nut and install the cotter pin, with the head facing up, or forward, not down or towards the rear.
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Old 06-23-2019, 02:56 PM   #7
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Dunno about all that process. The races should be firmly seated in their seats when they are installed by the time worn process, not by using the bearing to seat them. Tighten the castle nut to seat the bearings while turning the the drum. Back off the nut and install the cotter pin, with the head facing up, or forward, not down or towards the rear.

Actually that is the correct procedure. You want to tighten them to where there is a somewhat heavy drag while rotating than back off. When you do this a thousand times or more, you get a feel for it that is hard to put into as precise a procedure as what was stated. I used to be a mechanic back when cars actually had replaceable bearings that same as on the trailers. Today all cars come with sealed hubs.



That procedure is not for the races, those should be pressed in with the proper bearing seating tools, but it is to seat the bearings in their race and their race to the spindle, so they are true to the spindle and inner races and not at a slight angle.
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Old 06-23-2019, 06:28 PM   #8
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Actually that is the correct procedure. You want to tighten them to where there is a somewhat heavy drag while rotating than back off. When you do this a thousand times or more, you get a feel for it that is hard to put into as precise a procedure as what was stated. I used to be a mechanic back when cars actually had replaceable bearings that same as on the trailers. Today all cars come with sealed hubs.



That procedure is not for the races, those should be pressed in with the proper bearing seating tools, but it is to seat the bearings in their race and their race to the spindle, so they are true to the spindle and inner races and not at a slight angle.
anyone that attempts to press the races in with using the bearing and the castle nut is in for a surprise!
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Old 06-23-2019, 07:37 PM   #9
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If they do, it may never come off again, and sure wont be turning either!
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