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06-17-2019, 03:42 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: San Diego
Posts: 160
California
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Wheel bearing seals goneI just pulled two tires off and seals are gone and brakes are
My 2017 voltage toy hauler seals are gone.
I just pulled two tires off and seals are gone and brakes are covered with grease. I’ve got to find new seals and repack bearings. Of course I’m disappointed that the seals are gone my trailer it doesn’t have 7,000 miles on it. If I can figure out how I will post pictures. Also I’ve got to figure out how the electro magnet is fastened. Mine doesn’t have anything holding it on the shaft it just totally floats. Maybe one is not required. I hope to go from San Diego to Rochester NY next week. I haven’t pulled the other tires off yet I will tomorrow after I get seals.
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06-17-2019, 05:10 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Tucson
Posts: 872
Arizona
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Sounds like your inner seals were never there. With the wheels installed there is no place for your inner seals to go. Wear out, maybe, or get damaged but there will be remains. Plus you'll need new brake shoes. And don't ever use the zerk fitting to fill your spindle with grease as that's how it blows past your seals and onto your brakes. good luck.
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2014 Voltage 3600
2013 Chevy 3500 CC DRW
2019 RZR 1000XP Trails and Rocks Edition
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06-18-2019, 02:49 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: San Diego
Posts: 160
California
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Seals are there. I just finished repacking bearings. I lost the blog where somebody told the torque for the axel nut. It was a great article,. I have always tightened till I could see drag then backed off enough to get cotter key in.
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06-22-2019, 08:42 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Capron
Posts: 413
Illinois
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larrypride
Seals are there. I just finished repacking bearings. I lost the blog where somebody told the torque for the axel nut. It was a great article,. I have always tightened till I could see drag then backed off enough to get cotter key in.
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That is pretty much all you have to do. Set some drag, then back off until they spin smoothly and freely. Rather be a bit loose than too tight.
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06-23-2019, 01:04 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Debary
Posts: 22
Florida
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From Champion Trailer
Whenever you install new hubs or new bearings and races into an old hub, you should pre-load the bearings. Pre-loading the bearings assures that the races in the hubs are 100% in place against their machined stop points and keeps the hub from wobbling after a few miles.
To pre-load the bearings, install the spindle washer and spindle nut onto the spindle with the hub and bearings in place.
Tighten the spindle nut finger tight (until snug) and then with channel-lock pliers or a crescent wrench, tighten the spindle nut another 1/4 turn or about 15 to 20 ft pounds of torque.
Now turn the hub ten revolutions. This will fully seat the races.
Now loosen the spindle nut very loose, then re-snug to finger tight, and engage the nut retaining device (some reverse lubricating spindles use a tab washer for the retaining device).
I personally found 20 was too much and shoot for 17/18.
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06-23-2019, 01:44 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Tahlequah
Posts: 3,079
Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davesullivansr@gmail.com
From Champion Trailer
Whenever you install new hubs or new bearings and races into an old hub, you should pre-load the bearings. Pre-loading the bearings assures that the races in the hubs are 100% in place against their machined stop points and keeps the hub from wobbling after a few miles.
To pre-load the bearings, install the spindle washer and spindle nut onto the spindle with the hub and bearings in place.
Tighten the spindle nut finger tight (until snug) and then with channel-lock pliers or a crescent wrench, tighten the spindle nut another 1/4 turn or about 15 to 20 ft pounds of torque.
Now turn the hub ten revolutions. This will fully seat the races.
Now loosen the spindle nut very loose, then re-snug to finger tight, and engage the nut retaining device (some reverse lubricating spindles use a tab washer for the retaining device).
I personally found 20 was too much and shoot for 17/18.
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Dunno about all that process. The races should be firmly seated in their seats when they are installed by the time worn process, not by using the bearing to seat them. Tighten the castle nut to seat the bearings while turning the the drum. Back off the nut and install the cotter pin, with the head facing up, or forward, not down or towards the rear.
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2013 Voltage 3800, 2012 Chevy 3500 HD
2010 Yamaha V Star 950
2009 Yamaha Raider
Volunteering with Habitat for Humanity Caravanners
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06-23-2019, 02:56 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Capron
Posts: 413
Illinois
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sundancer 87
Dunno about all that process. The races should be firmly seated in their seats when they are installed by the time worn process, not by using the bearing to seat them. Tighten the castle nut to seat the bearings while turning the the drum. Back off the nut and install the cotter pin, with the head facing up, or forward, not down or towards the rear.
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Actually that is the correct procedure. You want to tighten them to where there is a somewhat heavy drag while rotating than back off. When you do this a thousand times or more, you get a feel for it that is hard to put into as precise a procedure as what was stated. I used to be a mechanic back when cars actually had replaceable bearings that same as on the trailers. Today all cars come with sealed hubs.
That procedure is not for the races, those should be pressed in with the proper bearing seating tools, but it is to seat the bearings in their race and their race to the spindle, so they are true to the spindle and inner races and not at a slight angle.
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06-23-2019, 06:28 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Wesley Chapel
Posts: 3,066
Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acdii
Actually that is the correct procedure. You want to tighten them to where there is a somewhat heavy drag while rotating than back off. When you do this a thousand times or more, you get a feel for it that is hard to put into as precise a procedure as what was stated. I used to be a mechanic back when cars actually had replaceable bearings that same as on the trailers. Today all cars come with sealed hubs.
That procedure is not for the races, those should be pressed in with the proper bearing seating tools, but it is to seat the bearings in their race and their race to the spindle, so they are true to the spindle and inner races and not at a slight angle.
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anyone that attempts to press the races in with using the bearing and the castle nut is in for a surprise!
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06-23-2019, 07:37 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Capron
Posts: 413
Illinois
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If they do, it may never come off again, and sure wont be turning either!
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