Locking Fuel Caps - Dutchmen Owners

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Old 10-15-2013, 02:37 AM   #1
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Locking Fuel Caps

Just picked up a pair of locking fuel caps from Auto Zone, they came as a key paired set, the only problem is plastic holder for caps does not fit. Found the name Stant on caps but no numbers, only matched these up by size of screwed fitting, taking one with me to store, at least I have a little piece of mind!
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Old 10-15-2013, 03:03 AM   #2
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Don't worry about the cap holder not fitting, three months in the sun and it'll break anyway. They need to be tucked out of the UVs to last.
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Old 10-15-2013, 04:12 AM   #3
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Darn, now where will I get my free fuel....
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Old 10-15-2013, 04:33 AM   #4
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I put my locks on about a week after I took delivery. The two gas caps are just too tempting!!!

I put a locking cap on my auxillary diesel tank too because 90 gallons of fuel is a major bang in the pocket. But, it hit me the other day while I was sticking the tank, dang, all is needed is a Cresent wrench to remove the bung plug in the other end of the tank. They won't get my almost empty tank of gas though.
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Old 10-22-2013, 03:01 AM   #5
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OK, here's a trade secret. Locking gas caps for almost all of the 2012-2014 Dutchman/Thor Trailers are for a 2003 Kia Sorento. Buy them anywhere. They fit perfectly and you will never have to worry about someone stealing your gas. They are also vented.
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Old 10-22-2013, 03:28 AM   #6
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Excellent tip. I will try one.
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Old 06-04-2015, 10:11 PM   #7
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That is good they are vented as the GPI transfer pump needs 3LB or less vented cap to work correctly! If you installed caps that are not vented then the pump may only work in the cool mornings before the fuel expands.
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Old 08-22-2015, 04:14 PM   #8
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Bringing this thread back up because I've got a sneaking suspicion someone may have siphoned some fuel from one of my tanks over the past week...

Anyway, as per post #5... the caps for a 2003 Kia Sorento are supposed to fit. Well before I headed out to the local parts hawk to buy a couple, I looked up the Stant part number for that car (#10595), and it's labeled as a "VACUUM ONLY" type cap.

I assume that means it's not a vented cap... which, as I understand things, we need for the generator to run. Correct?

Stant lists 3 different caps with the same measurements. #10595 VACUUM ONLY... #10596 NON-VENTED... and #10597 PRESSURE RELIEF.

(Page 263 on the following link:
http://stant.com/files/9314/0979/533...ck_Catalog.pdf )

So which one should I get?
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Old 08-22-2015, 09:36 PM   #9
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You can vent the vacuum only cap by drilling a series of 1/4" holes in the end of the threaded section of the cap. This doesn't make holes in the visible fuel cap, but does allow the cap to vent.

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Old 08-23-2015, 12:24 PM   #10
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I put Stant locking caps on mine and certainly wished I remembered the model numbers. I just went Iinto a local auto parts store and asked for a locking cap. Took it it home and it fit. Took it back with me the next day to get another with a matching key - no issues. Ran over 50 hours last weekend at the races.
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Old 08-23-2015, 05:00 PM   #11
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I would like to know the part number as well, is good piece of mind
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Old 08-23-2015, 08:19 PM   #12
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Well, off subject, but does anyone know where I can get fuel tank nozzles that don't have that danged little flapper in them?

If I can't find them, I'm going to take mine out this Winter and cut that danged thing out so the tank will really vent when I'm trying to fill them.

The vent hose is there, it doesn't have a kink in it...but I can't set the gas pump clicker on the higher setting and let it fill. Always backing up, puking fuel everywhere.

Tired of that!!!

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Old 08-23-2015, 09:49 PM   #13
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Pirate - I really think it is just because of the low angle the filler neck is at.
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Old 08-24-2015, 03:33 AM   #14
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I think there should be a small hole drilled in that piece going to the tank, to act as a vent... I would say the hard part would be to drill it and not get metal shavings into the tanks, but I imagine there is plenty of that and other stuff in the tanks.

On another note, it would be nice if there was a low point drain in the tanks like on aircraft wings, so we could drain fuel for samp,es...testing for water and other contaminants.

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Old 08-24-2015, 03:44 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calewjohnson View Post
I think there should be a small hole drilled in that piece going to the tank, to act as a vent... I would say the hard part would be to drill it and not get metal shavings into the tanks, but I imagine there is plenty of that and other stuff in the tanks.

On another note, it would be nice if there was a low point drain in the tanks like on aircraft wings, so we could drain fuel for samp,es...testing for water and other contaminants.

Cale
I believe most of the shavings are pulled outward when you drill. You can also grease the drill bit.

A problem I see with drilling a hole is that you would be slopping some fuel out with a nearly full tank especially when turning.

I'm not sure what flapper Pirate is talking about. I don't recall seeing that on my 2013 model.
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Old 08-24-2015, 04:04 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calewjohnson View Post
I think there should be a small hole drilled in that piece going to the tank, to act as a vent... I would say the hard part would be to drill it and not get metal shavings into the tanks, but I imagine there is plenty of that and other stuff in the tanks.

On another note, it would be nice if there was a low point drain in the tanks like on aircraft wings, so we could drain fuel for samp,es...testing for water and other contaminants.

Cale
Agreed...

One of the projects on my list is, the next time my tanks are empty... I'm gonna fill them with water to keep the risk of throwing a spark low, and drill holes to install one of these in each of them:

https://www.coxhardware.com/p-1972-o...iggy-back.aspx

A piggy back plug like this will allow me to fully drain them when I don't anticipate using them for a long time.
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