Batteries Recommendations For Inverter - Dutchmen Owners

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Old 05-13-2017, 03:50 AM   #1
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Batteries Recommendations For Inverter

I am looking into getting a 2k or 2.5k inverter and need to upgrade my batteries to have a large supply of power to supply the inverter. I am thinking of getting some very large batteries but don't know what type of battery I need. Thanks
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Old 05-13-2017, 03:56 AM   #2
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Also do these batteries replace the one I have in the RV or are they used alongside the existing battery.
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Old 05-13-2017, 10:35 AM   #3
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I recommend removing your existing and going with four 6V golfcart batteries. I have a 3100w inverter and its runs great on them.
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Old 05-13-2017, 10:42 AM   #4
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My specific recommendation is the the Trojan T-105. You will want all new batteries, not a good idea to mix brands, sizes or ages of batteries in a system. My personal preference would be 4 six volt. Best bang for the buck. Also how do you plan to recharge them?

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Old 05-13-2017, 05:11 PM   #5
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Thanks for the responses. From what I understand there is a difference between house batteries and starting batteries. If I replace my existing battery with 4-6volt golf cart batteries (house batteries) then wouldn't I still need to have a starting battery for starting my generator. So far what I was thinking of putting in is something like these Duracell Ultra. With each battery having 370 AH, wouldn't 4 of these wired in series and parallel give me 740 ah. That would be a lot of juice to run just about anything in the trailer. Especially a little heater overnight.

As for charging the batteries, I was thinking that during the off season or when not in use I could keep the batteries maintained with the trailer being plugged into the 110ac outlet that I keep plugged into all the time. When we are dry camping I would rely on my generator to bring the batteries up to charge until I can get some solar panels installed on the roof of the RV.
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Old 05-13-2017, 08:35 PM   #6
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I am not sure how the Voltages are wired up. On my motor home the generator starts off the coach batteries not the chassis battery. A lot of good that does you if the coach batteries are dead. However if you start the engine, it will give you enough oomph (technical term ) to get the generator started.

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Old 05-15-2017, 10:38 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donzinger View Post
I recommend removing your existing and going with four 6V golfcart batteries. I have a 3100w inverter and its runs great on them.
Same here. In my humble view there is no other modification that you can do that is more useful. I have the same - 3100w inverter and the four 6v which is really great.
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Old 05-16-2017, 03:28 PM   #8
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Others in this thread are reporting success stories with 4x6V series-parallel setups and large inverters, so it can work. But since you're asking, I'm assuming you're interested in feedback. 2.5kW inverter is huge, what are you planning on running with it? If you run it at max, that's around 250 amps of DC current that your wiring system must safely handle. Have you planned around that?
My 2x6V batteries can run a 1000 watt load from my 1500 watt inverter OK, but not really anything larger. But I don't have any need to run that high of a load while boondocking, so this works great for us.
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Old 05-16-2017, 07:59 PM   #9
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My first post here, recently picked up my new to me 2014 Voltage 3818 (Epic) a couple weeks ago. Slight upgrade from my 31' BP Fleetwood Mallard ASV TH .

I plan to get an inverter, but am still looking into which one to get, however, I did already upgrade the batts in anticipation of that upgrade and a solar add on later..

This battery upgrade was the 1st upgrade for me on this RV. Mine had a single 12V Deep Cycle Marine batt. Since most of our camping is boondocking mainly in the dunes for now, the batts needed an upgrade.

Here is what I did:

First I removed any jewelry, disconnected shore power to the RV and switched off the battery disconnect, and removed the existing battery, Ground, then pos lines then unscrewed and removed the existing batt box.

I Picked up four 6V GC2 Batts from Costco for about $84 ea, removed old single batt box, picked up a bin with lid from Lowes that would fit all four batts nice and tight, with a few inches to spare on the top.
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Next I set the bin in the compartment where it fit nicely with easy access and room to remove the lid and batteries if needed, and not disturb anything, then screwed it to the floor on each corner. Then drilled a 1-1/4 hole through the lowest part of the floor of the bin and floor for drainage, and sealed and inserted a cut piece of undersink PVC drain tube, that extends about an inch below the floor board.
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I had Napa Auto make me up some additional 4AWG and 2AWG cabling to wire up the 4 batts in series-parrallel. 2ea 8" Red 4AWG, 1ea 8" Red 2AWG, 1ea 8" Black 2AWG, and one additional 4AWG 60" ground cable. The longer ground cable enabled me to be able to bring the ground out of the side of the bin closest to the Genny box and conceal it below the storage compartment door frame back to its original location on the left, creating more room for storage to the left of the new battery box without a cable in the way.

I then drilled a hole in the upper part of the bin for for venting and used the original vent tube and connected it to a piece of sink drain PVC which I slipped through the vent hole I drilled and hose clamped them together to provide a nice secure fit.

Next I inserted the batts, then drilled two holes for the existing cables in two corners of the box, (the existing cables did not have to be resized), and connected the batteries together in series-parrallel to make the system 12V. The 4AWG cables were used to connect the neg to pos of each pair of batts, then used the 2AWG to connect each pair together POS to POS, NEG to NEG. Then connected the additional POS cabling from the RV to the pos and neg cables to the Neg Terminal just like you would if you ran one batt.
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I then turned back on the disconnect, checked everything over, and installed the lid and clips that are mounted to the bin to secure it in place. Everything works great. there is even some room to the left of the bin for more storage, and I may even make a removable shelf above the bin for more storage.

I also picked up a hole cover from CW that has the ability to be opened to bring in additional charge cables if I run a portable solar panel later, or if needed in a shady area or covered storage. I screwed this hole cover to the floor over the existing hole that was there from the manufacturer for the original single batt box.
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Let me know what ya think. Good luck with your project.
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Old 05-17-2017, 05:02 PM   #10
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Cool Gearheadzs. I'd plan on 500 watts minimum in solar panels to get meaningful charge into 4x6V batteries.
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Old 05-22-2017, 07:24 AM   #11
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Hey Gear....bought 2 6v batteries today!! I will drop them in my unit tomorrow!!

got mine for 124 each at O'reilly Auto Parts!
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Old 05-22-2017, 09:28 AM   #12
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Nice. Make sure you have them in a box and connect to the vent hose. Pretty simple change out.
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Old 05-22-2017, 11:03 AM   #13
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Nice. Make sure you have them in a box and connect to the vent hose. Pretty simple change out.
I bought a cheap box from walmart...a little oversized but i think it will work. I think I will take the OEM battery box and cut the vent off that and screw it to my lid.

Any idea on filler material if i need to tighten up the batteries? I was thinking foam rubber?
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Old 05-23-2017, 06:46 AM   #14
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I looked for a box that fit all four just right, nice and tight. Several places i looked, lowes had the best selection. They dont move a bit. Now, if you got quite a bit of room, maybe a 2x4 wedged in the bottom to cince em in there, and would leave some room left over for your batt removal strap and hydrometer for testing.
I used plastic plumbing drain pipes for the vent and drain, worked perfect.

Post pics when complete.
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Old 05-24-2017, 06:32 PM   #15
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I looked for a box that fit all four just right, nice and tight. Several places i looked, lowes had the best selection. They dont move a bit. Now, if you got quite a bit of room, maybe a 2x4 wedged in the bottom to cince em in there, and would leave some room left over for your batt removal strap and hydrometer for testing.
I used plastic plumbing drain pipes for the vent and drain, worked perfect.

Post pics when complete.
took your 2x4 idea and modified it. And the box from walmart was too large for the space in the front, so I went with one that I had here at the house already. I have everything laid out and ready to go, just need to get some silicone to seal my drain and vent connections, and some spray foam for my wiring and I will be good to go for the final install.

here are some pics of what i have so far...will post more when done!

Used a 1x4 and built a small box to go between the batteries to snug everything up and still give airflow all aroind.



hole for the genny wires



I used the stock battery box like i talked about, and cut a 4x4 squire aout around the vent and drain to reuse...will use silicone to seal these on the inside, and maybe a few screws to hold it tight.


And finally I had a 90 from sink drain laying around that fit nice and snug in the vent from the old battery box. I have not decided if I am going to silicone this in place or just do a friction fit....will probably do a friction fit for the first trip and see how it goes.


One last question, the genny connections and the ground and 12v hot from the trailer will connect on the same posts on this setup correct...IE trailer ground and genny - to the end of the chain, and the + of both to the beginning??

so like this:
  • Trailer + and genny + to positive post of battery 1
  • neg of battery 1 to pos of battery 2
  • and then trailer ground and genny - to neg post of battery 2
does that look right to you?
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Old 05-24-2017, 07:02 PM   #16
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I am not sure you need the elbow on the vent. Maybe just connecting the hose to the side, as the hose is long enough and would keep the hose level the the side, where you can zip tie it to the hyd line. This allows more room in the area to the left of the box. Also, you will be able to just clamp the hose to your reused hose outlet you cut from the old box. Just a recommendation. Like this:
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As for the batt connection, it sounds correct. However, I would spin one of the batts around, then connect everything. I created a picture to show what I mean. That way your connections are on opposite corners like one large battery, and a little shorter jumper cable between them.
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Gear
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Old 05-25-2017, 02:04 AM   #17
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yeah the 90 is a necessity, unfortunately. my box is a little too big to fit the vent connection to the left side like yours is, so i am having to go out the back. That make the hose just too short to bend around and attach directly to the vent...

I am using the existing drain hole in the bottom pan for my new box, so it my new box will have just enough clearance to put the lid on and take it off....i hope

and thanks for the drawing...that is exactly what i was thinking!!
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