30 Amps 110 v to 50 Amps 110 v ? - Dutchmen Owners

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Old 08-26-2018, 06:45 AM   #1
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30 Amps 110 v to 50 Amps 110 v ?

Hello,

My 2006 Dutchmen is 30 Amps 110 volt. Can I plug in 50 Amp 110 v at home breaker?
I try to run AC, water heater same time. Thank you for your help
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Old 08-26-2018, 02:05 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by poultryfarm View Post
Hello,

My 2006 Dutchmen is 30 Amps 110 volt. Can I plug in 50 Amp 110 v at home breaker?
I try to run AC, water heater same time. Thank you for your help
Chances are good the 50 amp at home IS NOT 110/120 volts, it is probably 220.

I run my water heater on LP most of the time. You might be able to run the A/C on a 20 amp circuit, if it is a 13.5kw unit it will run on a 15 amp as long as you don't have a long extension cord on it, and you keep everything else on gas.

Aaron
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Old 08-26-2018, 02:20 PM   #3
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Hello,

My 2006 Dutchmen is 30 Amps 110 volt. Can I plug in 50 Amp 110 v at home breaker?
I try to run AC, water heater same time. Thank you for your help
It is possible to run a single pole 50 amp circuit breaker BUT, unless you are changing the house wiring to accommodate the extra amperage, you are creating a possible fire issue. I would recommend a dedicated NEWLY WIRED outlet and if you have the space in your load center, install something like a SqD QO150 (50 amp single pole) dedicated to that circuit. Again, DO NOT USE THIS ON YOUR EXISTING WIRING! Also, if you are pulling more amps than your RV Shore Power Cable is capable of handling, you are risking damage to the cable, connections to the RV, and other electrical devices in your RV. You can put a 30 amp 110 volt circuit breaker in the box just as easy as adding a 50 and, in my opinion, would be the proper thing to do in order to run your rv at home. Again, adding the necessary wiring, etc.
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Old 08-26-2018, 07:35 PM   #4
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The way I understand things house current 220v 50 amp is 2 hot wires and ground and will blow up your RV wiring.

110v 30 amp RV current is 3 wires: 1 hot wire, neutral wire, and ground.

110v 50 amp RV current is 4 wires: 2 hot wires, neutral wire, and ground. If you're wiring up to your house each hot wire goes into its own 50 amp breaker.
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Old 09-02-2018, 12:14 AM   #5
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I'm a retired electrician AND you need to call one. You're over your head and asking for trouble.
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Old 09-02-2018, 12:18 AM   #6
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Guys, you're getting confused. The 50 Amp RV outlet (14-50R) is exactly the same as a home 50 amp electric stove outlet, and wired the same way. Two hots on either side, neutral at the bottom, and ground at the top. Yes, from hot to hot is 220 Volts, and in a stove, that potential is used as such. But in an RV, each hot is only used for 120 V circuits, to neutral.
Some speculate that there is "only" 120 volts in an RV outlet. Perhaps they think that both hots are from the same side of the 120/240 feed. But I don't think so. Every RV camp circuit breaker board I've seen shows the 50 amp, dual-breakers coming from a standard electric panel, where A and B phase are interleaved.
So this OP, could perhaps, get an RV dog-bone adapter, which is designed to go from 50 amp RV service to 30 amp. The adapter takes one of the two hots, and feeds it to the 30 amp service. Yes, it is "offering" 50 amps, but once the power gets inside the RV, the first thing it sees is a 30 amp main breaker. Nothing inside the trailer is going to draw more than 30 amps. Yes, a short in the cable outside would have to draw 50 amps before the house breaker tripped.
Maybe this guy has a 50 amp electric stove outlet in his garage? If so, this could work. The original post is not very clear as to his plans.
But I agree with others. The BEST plan is to get a 30 amp RV outlet installed by a qualified electrician. Use what it gives you, in terms of amperage. Like Aaron says, use propane for water heat or fridge or cabin heat. Your 30 amp plug will be glad you did, especially if you are using a 30 amp RV extension cord! (speaking from experience!)
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Old 09-02-2018, 02:03 AM   #7
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30 amps to 50 amps

The prior owner at my residence hooked up his RV to a 50A 220v-service outlet. We have a TT, 30-amp. After blowing out a 110v 15 amp outlet on 20A service this summer with the AC running, I bought the RV dog-bone adapter 50A-30A, and plugged the trailer into the 220 service, so, I am only using one leg. But, I also have a Progressive Industries surge protector in line between the outlet and my TT.
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Old 09-02-2018, 02:50 AM   #8
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The quick answer is yes. Everything will work. The 50 amp breaker in the home service entrance will protect the house wiring. The 30 amp breaker in the TT will protect the TT wiring. That leaves the shore power cable, the connecter on the outside of the TT, and the wiring between the connecter and the TT service panel. They are not adequately protected.
You need a 50 amp to 30 amp adapter with a 30 amp fuse or breaker in it to protect the shore power cord. Or, you could use a simple adapter and take the chance the power cord and its TT connector will not sustain damage that could cause a 20 amp over current and start a fire in the cord.
You could also install a 30 amp fuse or breaker with a 30 amp outlet next to the 50 amp outlet on the house side. You would not need to run a new 30 amp circuit back to the house service entrance, just wire it to the existing 50 amp line. This is how many RV parks are wired. They have 50 amp, 30 amp, and 20 amp outlets for shore power connection with breakers for each. This is all wired on the end of one 50 amp line to the site. The house wiring modification should be done by a licensed electrician.
Don’t worry about the 120 -230 voltage issue. That will all work out fine in the plugs and sockets.
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Old 09-02-2018, 02:55 AM   #9
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A surge protector protects against over voltage, not over current. A circuit breaker or fuse protects against over current. If your dog bone or serge protector does not have a 30 amp fuse or circuit breaker, your power cord, connector on the TT and the wire from the TT connecter to the TT service panel are at risk of fire.
The risk is not a high risk, but a risk none the less.
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Old 09-02-2018, 07:05 AM   #10
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If you power chord is rated 30amps (#10 wire) it wouldn’t be wise to put more than 30 amps on it. If you want to install 50 amp service in your unit you need to make sure you panel is rated for 50 amps also. Panels are rated at 30, 60, and 100 on up. So you need to have a panel and chord and plug all rated for 50 amps. Like the other person said 50 amp is also 240 volts, which is 50 amps on 2 120 volt legs or 240 across the two hot legs. 120volts hot to neutral. If you change it makes sure it’s done by a qualified person or you could burn your unit up or worse you could kill somebody.
I’ve been a Electricial contractor for over 30 years, half of the advice given about is very wrong and dangerous.
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Old 09-02-2018, 01:30 PM   #11
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You'll cook your converter spend 150 or so dollars an electrician have a breaker and an outlet installed it's no big deal for them to do it
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Old 09-02-2018, 01:40 PM   #12
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50 Amp Connection.

You guys are missing the question. He asked if he could plug his 30 Amp 110V into a 50 Amp 110 V receptacle. The answer is no, the plugs are different. A lot are saying to use a dog bone, that's a 220 V, 50 Amp plug that doesn't support a 110 V line input. If you are truly going from 110 V to 110 V and the plug and receptacle match, there is no problem. The max load on the entrance cable will be 30 Amp, because that is the max load allowed by the main breaker in the trailer. However, as the electrician said earlier, get an electrician to verify what you have.
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Old 09-02-2018, 03:19 PM   #13
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You guys are missing the question. He asked if he could plug his 30 Amp 110V into a 50 Amp 110 V receptacle. The answer is no, the plugs are different.
This part of the statement is true. The plugs will not fit together. Using a dog bone to adapt the plugs is a given. Here is a link explaining in detail. You can buy one at most hardware stores.

Using a 50 to 30 Amp RV Power Adapter - RV Basics .com

There is one point of confusion in the linked article, but it does not matter in this case. Both the 50 amp and 30 amp house power receptacles have 230 volts and 120 volts wired into them as do all most all modern homes in the US.

There is no danger from over voltage or frying your converter. The plug and socket wiring protect against over voltage. The Converter 30 amp breaker protects against over current in the RV. (Let's not start a discussion about surge protectors in this thread.)

The only danger is from over current in the 30 amp RV shore power cord and RV shore power connector portion of the circuit. This is the same danger many of your house hold appliances have. The appliances have 15 amp power cords. Most of the outlets in your house, especially in the kitchen are 20 amp outlets. Any malfunctioning appliance can malfunction and draw more than 20 amps through the 15 amp cord without tripping the circuit breaker. A cord fire can ensue.
A 30 amp fuse or circuit breaker at the plug end of the cord can prevent over current in the cord. Christmas tree light strings have a fuse in the plug end because accidents have happened and the code was changed to require them. A dog bone with a 30 amp fuse would provide the same type of protection for your shore power cord.
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Old 09-02-2018, 04:38 PM   #14
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I’m not familiar with this dog bone device, but you are correct if you have protection at the beginning of the chord (fuse, circuit breaker) male end, that would be ok. The breaker inside the unit will not protect the chord if it is over a few feet long. We do have tap rules that allow you to put the fuse or circuit after the smaller wire but let’s not go there, it’s in the national electric code. Again not for this application.
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Old 09-02-2018, 04:49 PM   #15
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I just looked at that dog bone adapter it doesn’t appear to have protection for the chord. Yes after the panel in unit you have protection. If you have a short in your panel before breakers or a short in the wiring the 30 amp wires could burn before the 50 amp breaker trips. I would NOT use this adapter. I have had people tell me all kinds of story’s about how it worked for them with no problem for years. I tell them they where lucky test pilots. I’ve been a electricial contractor for over 35 years.
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Old 09-02-2018, 06:24 PM   #16
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30 amp connection

You guys keep talking about a dog bone, which is a 50 amp 220 volt converter to a 30 amp 110 volt circuit. He asked the question 30 amp 110 volt to 50 amp 110 volt connection, not the same thing. He's not connecting in an RV park, but his own home. As far as the 30 amp cord burning because you are connected to a 50 amp receptacle, you can't draw more than 30 amps because that's the max in your system with a 30 amp main. If you get a short in the main shore power cord it will blow the 50 amp breaker at the other end. Again, if you don't understand electrical get an electrician. 220 volt and 110 volt systems are not compatible without conversion and that's what a dog bone does. It disconnects one leg of the 220 volt line and uses only one leg at 110 volts and converts from a four prong plug to a three.
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Old 09-02-2018, 07:02 PM   #17
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Wow, this is getting time consuming. If the 30 amp chord or wiring in trailer was to short it could burn up before the 50 amp breaker tripped. Also the power at your house and at the RV park come from the power plant its the same. PS; I have been an electrician for over 40 years. Man, I'm getting old. That guy that started this thread if we can find a way to talk on phone I will try to help you if you want more help. Its not a difficult job but must be done correctly.
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Old 09-02-2018, 08:53 PM   #18
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Both 50 and 30 amp outlets are 220 volt outlets.

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Originally Posted by capeharj View Post
220 volt and 110 volt systems are not compatible without conversion and that's what a dog bone does. It disconnects one leg of the 220 volt line and uses only one leg at 110 volts and converts from a four prong plug to a three.
It is unlikely the dog bone that plugs into a 50 amp outlet disconnects any legs for its 30 amp socket output. The three pin 30 outlet still has the two 120 volt legs live and one neutral in it . Mine is live through the cable to the twist lock connecter on my TT. One leg from the twist lock connecter to the converter is live. The other is not connected. The leg not connected could be used in the TT. The converter is not designed to use it.
I had a folding camper with both legs live in the trailer. We never used the outlets on the second leg and they did not work when plugged in to a 120 volt shore outlet.
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Old 09-03-2018, 02:35 PM   #19
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The 30 amp female will have 3 prongs, one hot, one neutral, one ground. The voltage from hot to neutral should be around 118, the same hot to ground. The wire is rated per code for 30amps. If you go over 30amps at some point the insulation will melt and you will cause a short and the wire I’ll burn.
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Old 09-03-2018, 03:09 PM   #20
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Hello,

My 2006 Dutchmen is 30 Amps 110 volt. Can I plug in 50 Amp 110 v at home breaker?
I try to run AC, water heater same time. Thank you for your help
This is what I did at two of my homes. Have an electrician hook it up if you aren't familiar or know exactly what you are doing. This may not answer your original question about plugging into the 50AMP line but does give you an option.
50, 30, 20 amp Surface Mount RV Power Outlet Box - RV Park Supplies
You have many options to use this outlet for your current RV needs and if you upgrade to a 50AMP RV.
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