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Old 02-28-2015, 07:56 PM   #11
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After 20 years living with propane refrigerators I've learned one thing, they either work well or they don't. These things were never designed to be used in hot climates, 90 degrees was the break over point for me. All year my gassers would work fine but once the house saw that 90 temperature that's when I knew the inside of the refrigerator would balance around 50 degrees.
I've tried fans on the inside and the outside but didn't notice any difference. I kicked up the wc pressure a litte, insulated the outside of the refrigerator and still didn't notice any great drop in temperature.
The gassers are slow in recovery, you open the door and loose a few degrees which takes a long time to recover. The fan inside won't help with recovery but it will send cold air out into the room when you open the door.
I'm pleased with the way the four door Norcold works in the summer. To me it's almost like have a compressor refrigerator.


I haven't found a way to justify them.
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Old 03-01-2015, 12:08 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by EricNSTL View Post
Since this thread was brought up... Are these fans worth the trouble to install? Can you hear them running with the fridge closed? I found these on ebay, I thought I might add this.. I didn't want to fool around with a battery powered one if I do it.
I have this fan as does my father in law - no complaints whatsoever
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Old 03-04-2015, 12:47 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by EricNSTL View Post
Since this thread was brought up... Are these fans worth the trouble to install? Can you hear them running with the fridge closed? I found these on ebay, I thought I might add this.. I didn't want to fool around with a battery powered one if I do it.
I got mine off eBay as well and that is why I started this thread...having trouble finding a hot wire to connect it to. The theory behind these is valid I believe, so I'd like to use one, but the issue of where to connect is where I fail.
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Old 03-04-2015, 01:52 AM   #14
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I got mine off eBay as well and that is why I started this thread...having trouble finding a hot wire to connect it to. The theory behind these is valid I believe, so I'd like to use one, but the issue of where to connect is where I fail.
I ordered mine, when I install it I will take some pictures and maybe can lend some assistance. I know we don't have the same refrigerators, but I might come across something that helps. I believe the fridge in my Denali is a Norcold. I just went to their web page and found the manuals on line. They have wiring schematics in the back.

Product Manuals

If you know your model number, let me know, I might be able to help you find a hot wire.

Eric
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Old 03-04-2015, 05:46 PM   #15
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I found that we can run the fridge one setting lower with the fan and still maintain a nice 34-35f.
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Old 03-14-2015, 07:50 PM   #16
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I decided to get a fan for the refrigerator to more evenly distribute the temperature. The fan I got (off eBay) instructs to connect the hot wire of the fan unit to a post on the reefer light that is hot even when the door is close...in theory, that is exactly what I know is needed. HOWEVER, on my 2014 Voltage 3905, I cannot find a hot wire that is hot when the door is closed. Has anyone successfully installed a reefer (refrigerator) fan in a 3905 Voltage? Mine has the double door reefer. Or, can anyone suggest where to find a hot wire without major dismantling of the reefer just to find a hot wire needed for the install.
Ok I got mine installed. Like yours, my light didn't have the voltage present with the door closed. So I had to run it though the drain and make the connections in the rear.

I made one mistake. The fan comes with a in line fuse on the red wire. I cut it off before I pushed the wire through the drain hose. So I had to use a wire nut, since I didn't have any butt splices with me. I will fix that at a later time. But I would say you definitely want to use the inline fuse for safety.

The red wire hooks up in the rear where the 12VDC is connected to the control board.

Hope this helps
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Old 03-15-2015, 11:30 AM   #17
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The fan I have is identical except does not have a switch on - it will now!
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Old 03-18-2015, 11:40 PM   #18
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Ok I got mine installed. Like yours, my light didn't have the voltage present with the door closed. So I had to run it though the drain and make the connections in the rear.

I made one mistake. The fan comes with a in line fuse on the red wire. I cut it off before I pushed the wire through the drain hose. So I had to use a wire nut, since I didn't have any butt splices with me. I will fix that at a later time. But I would say you definitely want to use the inline fuse for safety.

The red wire hooks up in the rear where the 12VDC is connected to the control board.

Hope this helps
Thanks for this...I found my drain hole and did the same thing as you...my fan now runs 24/7. Jury out still on if it is worthwhile. I did put a 0.5A inline fuse on the line.
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Old 04-06-2015, 10:39 PM   #19
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I finally got out for a weekend. I would have to say that this fan was a good addition. It kept the refrigerator at a noticeably even temperature throughout. So for less then $20, I highly recommend.
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Old 04-06-2015, 10:54 PM   #20
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I finally got out for a weekend. I would have to say that this fan was a good addition. It kept the refrigerator at a noticeably even temperature throughout. So for less then $20, I highly recommend.
I agree, and post camping cleanup is faster, because it keeps 80% of frost off of the cooling fins.
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