Not sure if your fresh water tank was filled or not. If the tank was filled I would speculate your tank or tanks have a crack in them. I had issues with each of my tanks because the idiots installed them poorly and crushed them just enough that over the years those crushed areas eventually cracked and started to leak. They became worse and worse over about a year after first appearing and required repair.
On the other hand, if you were connected to city water then the leak could be in any one of your pipes but I suspect it is a holding tank leak.
Unfortunately, the coroplast (not sure of the spelling) that covers the bottom of the trailer will make it nearly impossible to determine unless you remove it. In my case we cut around the screws holding it on the frame and pulled it down far enough to see the leak. You might have to drop a few other brackets screwed to the coroplast too. When reattaching just use new self tapping screws right next to the area you cut away and it should hold fine.
As a warning this could be a challenging and difficult repair to make depending on the leak location. In my case we used a two part epoxy and actually glued a piece of hard plastic over the cracks. The epoxy alone might have done the job but I wanted to be safe.
Lastly, do not close up the coroplast until you give the repair time to dry and check again. On my repair each leak I closed up then caused a leak higher up on the tank and elsewhere to appear until my third repair. Oh, and for good measure I would avoid storing your trailer with full tanks for long periods of time as that probably doesn’t help in the long run. On the positive leaking fresh water is far better than gray or black tank issues!
On the other hand, if you were connected to city water then the leak could be in any one of your pipes but I suspect it is a holding tank leak.
Unfortunately, the coroplast (not sure of the spelling) that covers the bottom of the trailer will make it nearly impossible to determine unless you remove it. In my case we cut around the screws holding it on the frame and pulled it down far enough to see the leak. You might have to drop a few other brackets screwed to the coroplast too. When reattaching just use new self tapping screws right next to the area you cut away and it should hold fine.
As a warning this could be a challenging and difficult repair to make depending on the leak location. In my case we used a two part epoxy and actually glued a piece of hard plastic over the cracks. The epoxy alone might have done the job but I wanted to be safe.
Lastly, do not close up the coroplast until you give the repair time to dry and check again. On my repair each leak I closed up then caused a leak higher up on the tank and elsewhere to appear until my third repair. Oh, and for good measure I would avoid storing your trailer with full tanks for long periods of time as that probably doesn’t help in the long run. On the positive leaking fresh water is far better than gray or black tank issues!
Water Leak
I had this happen to me a few years ago. I took the underbelly off to find a 1" slit in the PEX plumbing and an open box cutter knife they left in my 5th Wheel at the factory! I replaced about 4 ft of PEX pipe and the problem was solved.
I also had a spraying leak this last spring with the cheap plastic shut off valve for the water heater bypass. The fitting cracked due to age so I replaced it with a stainless steel 3 way valve for both the water heater bypass and the winterize bypass valve as it was showing signs of cracking also. That won't happen again.
I ended up replacing the underbelly as the old one was deformed from an AT fluid leak from a hydraulic ram when I first got the trailer, but that is another story! Good luck!
I had this happen to me a few years ago. I took the underbelly off to find a 1" slit in the PEX plumbing and an open box cutter knife they left in my 5th Wheel at the factory! I replaced about 4 ft of PEX pipe and the problem was solved.
I also had a spraying leak this last spring with the cheap plastic shut off valve for the water heater bypass. The fitting cracked due to age so I replaced it with a stainless steel 3 way valve for both the water heater bypass and the winterize bypass valve as it was showing signs of cracking also. That won't happen again.
I ended up replacing the underbelly as the old one was deformed from an AT fluid leak from a hydraulic ram when I first got the trailer, but that is another story! Good luck!
Yamaha YXZ
Advanced Member
The tanks are like milk cartons anymore
Fairly certain you are incorrect because a milk carton is thicker and has better quality control.
Local150
Senior Member
My way to check what the leak is, a water pipe or the tank. Turn your pump on and let it pump up and it should shut off. If it automatically comes back on after a bit it probably a water line. If it doesn't come on chances are pretty good that it's the tank
Ras82310
New Member
Just had a huge water leak and had to search it out. Turned out to be one of my fresh water tanks. Tracked it down with inspection camera and then removed then cut a hole at the spot. It was interesting to learn that the tanks are free floating and not secured. Kind of strange!! Had driven to the sight after filling the tanks and sure they slammed up and down and caused the crack.
Learned how to plastic weld the tank and then melt screen mesh into the repair to strengthen it. Went a step further and added an epoxy to hold a rubber membrane patch over the area. Seems to be holding, but concerned about the tanks and need to get them secured. Was thinking of replacing the tank but cannot see how to remove it without cutting up the cradle.
Any recommendations? And is it bad to travel with the tanks topped off? Won't do that again!! We do a lot of boon docking and have to fill before we park.
Learned how to plastic weld the tank and then melt screen mesh into the repair to strengthen it. Went a step further and added an epoxy to hold a rubber membrane patch over the area. Seems to be holding, but concerned about the tanks and need to get them secured. Was thinking of replacing the tank but cannot see how to remove it without cutting up the cradle.
Any recommendations? And is it bad to travel with the tanks topped off? Won't do that again!! We do a lot of boon docking and have to fill before we park.
Franktafl
Senior Member
Lots of folks on this site travel with tanks that have water. The tanks usually have straps but, you are correct, they are not very well fastened.
Ras82310
New Member
This is the final repair and the scope image of the initial crack. It is holding and appears to have worked.
Still upset that there is zero straps or clamps holding my tanks down and also the minimal supports below each tank. Just got a few sheets of expanded metal to add under them and metal strapping with rubber padding for the corners as not to wear through the tanks.
Has anyone actually removed their water tanks. I cannot find a way to get them out without cutting the support structure and them re-welding it back into place. Or am I missing something?
Still upset that there is zero straps or clamps holding my tanks down and also the minimal supports below each tank. Just got a few sheets of expanded metal to add under them and metal strapping with rubber padding for the corners as not to wear through the tanks.
Has anyone actually removed their water tanks. I cannot find a way to get them out without cutting the support structure and them re-welding it back into place. Or am I missing something?
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