Ok, in re campgrounds, I’d think you should be good until you reach the Dakotas…. unless you also plan on heading up & around the oven mitt into the UP of Michigan. Then I’d do some checking. But other than the Rushmore / Rapid City area, I’d definitely check to make sure what options are open.
Ok so, if you’re on your way to Rushmore via I-90 from the east, you’ll begin seeing the signs for Wall Drug. If you’re familiar with “South of the Border” on I-95 at the NC/SC line, it’s kinda the same thing except it’s not all run down. It’s a thriving place that nearly everyone stops at lease once, with the assortment of gift shops, restaurant, etc. Just one of those places to say “Yeah, I’ve been there”.
Just south of Wall Drug is Badlands National Park. A nice place to visit, with some VERY unusual landscape. You can drive thru the main road of the park in about 90 minutes, even taking time for a few photo stops here & there.
While you’re visiting Rushmore, take a day or 3 to linger around, and also visit the Crazy Horse Memorial nearby. Also, you’ll wanna take a nice drive thru Custer State Park, and the Black Hills National Forest. Beautiful area, and… although I’ve never been there at this time of year, chances are that’s where you’ll first see herds of bison (buffalo) out here in the west.
Departing the Rushmore area on I-90, you’ll pass by the towns of Sturgess & Deadwood before you leave the state… and after crossing the state line into Wyoming, the first town of any significance you’ll pass by is Sundance. It’s claim to fame is the place where the “Sundance Kid” began his life of crime. It’s also the the place where you’ll exit the interstate, and make the 25-mile trip to Devil’s Tower. (BTW, the Devil’s Tower KOA is an excellent place to stay, and is where the movie “Close Encounters…” was filmed)
At this time of year, I don’t think you’ll wanna head any further north… but if you do, and you’re into history, the old Fort Union site is a couple hours north on the Montana/North Dakota state line, near where the Yellowstone River flows into the Missouri River. This is where John Jacob Astor set up the fur-trading outpost that make him rich back in 1828.
If you don’t head north, and if you continue west on I-90 after Devil’s Tower… there isn’t really very much in the way of scenery for the next 120 miles or so. Just a lot of rolling flatlands until you reach the eastern slope of the Bighorn mountain range. This is the first little “teaser” range before you reach the front slope of the Rockies proper. But don’t let that word “teaser” fool you… these mountains rise up over 13,000 feet, and are absolutely beautiful.
Before you get there though, you’ll intersect with I-25 where it ends and joins I-90 heading north… and here’s where you’ll be wanting to check the weather, and make you travel decisions.
If it looks decent for the time you’re here… then you’ve got some options. Again, if you like history… Little Bighorn Battlefield, the site of Custer’s last stand is about 100 miles north up I-90 in Montana. And the 2 passes over Bighorns themselves have spectacular scenery. The 2 main towns are Buffalo to the south (where I-25 joins I-90), and Sheridan to the north. Both towns are full of old west charm, with historic hotels, restaurants, and bars… and plenty of places to stay.
And if you’re going to continue west to Yellowstone, crossing the Bighorns is also your shortest option. But take note:
I mentioned the 2 passes over the range up above. In bad weather, I WOULD NOT recommend you tow an RV over either of them. Both passes have road grades of at least 6%, with tight mountainside turns & a few switchbacks. (more about bad-weather options later)
But even in good weather, I would also recommend that you NOT tow an RV over the northern pass (US-14). Although the most scenic, it also is the most treacherous… with one section on the western descent known as the OH MY GOD hill. At the top, the road splits into 2 different routes (US-14 and US-14A)… but both of them have VERY steep descents with 7-10% grades. One section descends 3,600 feet in 10 miles… the other drops 4,600 in 18 miles.
What I’m trying to say is, although I usually pull a heavy 5th wheel toyhauler… I wouldn’t even tow an RV like yours down that road with my F-450 dually, let alone an Expedition.
So if you’re gonna tow your rig across, take the southern pass… US-16. It’s got a few places with sharp switchbacks, and steep grades too (both uphill & down)… but they are’t nearly as severe as those on the northern pass.
Ok, back to bad weather options. If you still wanna try for Yellowstone, but opt to not tow across the Bighorns… you’ve only got 2 options:
- Head north on I-90 to Billings, MT, and then turn south towards Cody, WY… or…
- Head south on I-25 down to Casper, WY, and then turn west.
Either way is going to add about 4 hours to your driving time, but will be much safer. And of course, if it’s cold & snowing up in Montana, you’ll only have the southern route to Casper as an option.
From Billings, you’r only option into Yellowstone will be via Cody, WY and the East Entrance. The Northeast Entrance to Yellowstone has been closed since early June when the flood washed out all of the roads up there. Otherwise, the best way in would’ve been via one of the most famous & scenic roads in the US… the Beartooth Highway that runs from Red Lodge, MT, then through Cooke City, and to the Northeast Entrance. But again, that’s not an option this year.
But if you turn south at the Bighorns, and head towards Casper… well, now you have a couple of different options available to you for getting to Yellowstone. The first is to head west out of Casper to the town of Shoshoni, and then turn north towards Cody. This will take you through the beautiful Wind River Canyon, and also right by the famous hot springs in Thermopolis. Just before you get to Cody, you’ll even pass by Kanye’s ranch that he’s pretty much abandoned after he & Kim parted ways. Haha
Coming through Cody… well, it’s the town that “Buffalo Bill” Cody founded, and his name’s on just about everything. That said, the Buffalo Bill Center of the West is definitely worth a stop. 5 different museums that tell the story of the old west… including the country’s most famous firearm’s resource, if you’re into that sort of thing. Anyway… the East Entrance to Yellowstone is about an hour west of Cody… and from the park, you can exit via the South Entrance to Grand Teton Nat’l Park.
The 2nd option is to continue west at Shoshoni, skirt the Wind River Reservation to the south, and head directly towards Grand Teton… and from Teton, north into Yellowstone is you wanna try it that way.
You’ll again have a chance to check weather at a few towns along the way before you get there… as it’s a good 250 miles from Casper to the northern end of Grant Teton. But your last chance to avoid the area completely will be in Riverton. After that, the elevation rises steeply, and there’s only one road in & out of there.
Ok, I’ve rambled on enough and have probably bored the hell out of you by now. And I don’t mean to be condescending by any means. But I just can’t stress enough how wacky the weather can be out here this time of year, and how quickly it can change. I’m from Virginia myself, and my sons are still living & working there (Alexandria & Norfolk)… and these aren’t the “molehills” of the Blue Ridge & the Smokies. It can be gorgeous one day, sunny & warm.. and whiteout conditions the next. You just never know.
