Replace stabilizer jacks in Aerolite

billappleton

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Joined
Sep 26, 2023
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Los Gatos
we have a Dutchmen Aerolite 224es and bent one of the stabilizers. I cant find a replacement anywhere on the Internet! This is the crank down style of manual jack. Does anyone know of a replacement? or substitute? Thanks!
 

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hi all! thanks for the help. i was looking for an exact match... somebody made that stabilizer right? if not, can i completely replace with like a scissor jack. Worried about bolt patterns matching, etc
 
I don't need them bent, I can do that part myself :) I guess that is the match. The bar is tapered differently... will go measure my bolt pattern


Thanks
 
Why would you want the same thing? The company doesn't seem to provide the capacity of the jacks either. Your stabilizer bent at what looks to be a weak point in the design.
I understand they aren't designed to hold up the trailer.... But they should be able to come closer to that than what I saw in your picture.

But it's not my choice.... If you are overweight, might want to look into a different design.
 
Why would you want the same thing? The company doesn't seem to provide the capacity of the jacks either. Your stabilizer bent at what looks to be a weak point in the design.
I understand they aren't designed to hold up the trailer.... But they should be able to come closer to that than what I saw in your picture.

But it's not my choice.... If you are overweight, might want to look into a different design.

I think he hit something! These stabilizers are not meant to “lift” the RV, just keep it from shaking and bouncing a bit.
 
we have a Dutchmen Aerolite 224es and bent one of the stabilizers. I cant find a replacement anywhere on the Internet! This is the crank down style of manual jack. Does anyone know of a replacement? or substitute? Thanks!

Can't really tell what you have, you should have provided a picture of the good one. But, you can try these folks, they get all the surplus parts from the manufacturers in Elkhart. you may have to provide a picture of the good stabilizer.

https://bontragers.com/
 
I think he hit something! These stabilizers are not meant to “lift” the RV, just keep it from shaking and bouncing a bit.

Agreed. Let's hope that's the case. I'm still leary of a company that won't post the weight restrictions of a product supposedly designed to hold weight.
 
Agreed. Let's hope that's the case. I'm still leary of a company that won't post the weight restrictions of a product supposedly designed to hold weight.

It's not meant to hold weight, just steady the RV and keep it from bouncing. You CANNOT and SHOULD NOT lift the RV with the stabilizers (as you probably already know).
 
Understand that, but in my book, you need to put weight on the jacks to get a solid stabilization. Not much, but enough to stabilize the frame.
 
the farther you extend a "stabilizer", the less effective it is. The best way to use them is to put blocks under the foot so you don't need to extend them all the way. The placement of them is to crank them down until they touch the ground then crank them another round to put pressure on them and to stabilize the RV and possibly keep it from bouncing. If all i have is front and rear, I like to put a scissor in the middle to keep the frame from flexing.

my .02
 
i found the exact stabilizers:

https://www.classacustoms.com/Corner-Post-Stabilizer-Jack_p_289.html

Does anyone know if these are bolt on or weld on? Trying to get my tools together before I visit the trailer next week...

Dutchmen Aerolite 224es

The jacks linked above are 1000 pound jacks. This is much too light weight. 2500 pounds would be better.

I can't tell you how yours are mounted. Even if they are bolted, customization may be required to fit your unit.

The jacks on my Kodiak Cub were both screwed and bolted. New holes had to be drilled due to mounting conditions on the frame.

The jacks I removed were custom drilled. Bolts, screws, and uncontrolled spacing between the holes. They appeared to have been hand drilled through the jack flange into the frame flange one hole at a time. Screws were used when they got too close to the vertical frame part.
 

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