Rear camera installation questions

pwalton

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2016
Posts
273
Location
Central Ohio, USA
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OK, fine helpful folks... I finally decided on a rear camera. Have it in hand (Yay!) I plan on installing it tomorrow. Plan is to connect the power to the high middle marker light. Communication connection to monitor is wireless.

Big question...how to mount it to the corrugated siding of my brand new baby? I don't plan on putting any holes all the way through the wall (wiring will all stay exterior).

Thanks for your experienced help!!

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Pam, since I don't know how deep your wall is, I would go with a thin piece of metal, and make it long enough to run from one bump to the other bump, that way the screws won't go thru the inside wall, and the camera can be screwed to the metal plate...Also the wire won't have far to go,
 
fe32329ee1c21b06c6175bc8a9a572d5.jpg


OK, fine helpful folks... I finally decided on a rear camera. Have it in hand (Yay!) I plan on installing it tomorrow. Plan is to connect the power to the high middle marker light. Communication connection to monitor is wireless.

Big question...how to mount it to the corrugated siding of my brand new baby? I don't plan on putting any holes all the way through the wall (wiring will all stay exterior).

Thanks for your experienced help!!

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Best idea I have seen so far is that someone made a bracket and mounted it to the spare tire bracket. It stuck up a foot or so above the tire. He didn't want to drill any holes in his unit either. You could get power from a tail light or possibly the harness underneath.

Aaron:cool:
 
I need to clarify, I don't mind screw holes (necessary evil) just not 1 inch holes that penetrate to the interior. I considered the spare tire, but the I worry about the vibration/wobble (and how to route the wires).

But can I just use self tapping screw? Drywall anchors? I suppose that depends on how the bracket fits on/in the corrugation.

What sort of sealant should I look for to make sure it stays water tight?

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So the corrugation isn't as deep as I remember (sure would be nice to be able to store this thing at home!)

If mounted right near the top should catch a support, self tapping screws *should* hold just fine.


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Got a picture of the underside of the bracket?

I would use a stainless steel round head wood screws, probably a #6x1" no more than 1-1/4" long.

Put sealant on the back side of the bracket so the screw pulls some into the hole, then seal along the top and sides of the bracket with caulking.

There is a solid header about where the lights are mounted, don't recall if it is a single or double. If you gently push on the siding you should be able to feel where the wood framing is.

Pre-drill the holes with a small pilot bit, then put your bracket up with the sealant on it, and put the wood screws in.

Feed the power wire in the underside of the light base, with a slight drop loop, that way any water that gets on the wire won't run inside of anything.

For sealant use something like the Geocel Proflex RV.

Aaron:cool:
 
Last edited:
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I didn’t think about coming in from the bottom, and that's why I asked! You make an excellent point, Aaron, about water drip!

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Sooooo close!!!

Had other chores today, so I didn't get started on the installation until after 5:30. Got it wired up and working. (On what planet should a red wire be connected to the green wires?!?) Got it mounted to the trailer, got the marker light put back together. Last thing left is to mount a junction box so I can hide the excess wires but I ran out of daylight. :( It's supposed rain tomorrow... so at least everything is weatherproofed!


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How is this camera working for you? Which brand did you go with? I would like to add a camera to my new trailer when it arrives and I'm fortunate that my trailer comes with a bracket and power wire but apparently some cameras have horrible range
 
How is this camera working for you? Which brand did you go with? I would like to add a camera to my new trailer when it arrives and I'm fortunate that my trailer comes with a bracket and power wire but apparently some cameras have horrible range

I opted for a wireless Tadibrothers camera and monitor pair.

The wireless connection between the camera and the monitor leave a lot to be desired. The system I have is purported to have an 80’ range. I have a 20’ trailer hooked up to a minivan (well within the promised range). I do have ‘flickering’ problems. When still (or slow) the image is fine, once I get up to highway speed it’s almost like the image can’t keep up (dumb theory as I know it doesn’t work that way … but it’s what it feels like!) I’m eventually going to mount the camera antenna further forward on the trailer in hopes that it solves the flicker issue. As for image, the monitor is a bit washed out looking, color rendering is poor at best … but I don’t care whether the car behind me is red or orange, I just need to know that something is there if I’m going to attempt to back up! The pricing difference between the Tadibrothers and the systems available locally is worth the negative bits mentioned. I think I paid around $300 and the ones around here are $600+ plus installation.

All that being said, now that I’m more experience with the trailer I find that I’m using the monitor less and less. I now almost never use it when backing to park … just mostly when driving down the road to monitor traffic that might be getting ready to pass me so it doesn’t surprise me when it’s suddenly in my periphery. Oh, and as expected, I am solo 99% of the time with no one to guide me into a spot. I just went out this weekend and my husband started guiding me into the camping spot, then disappeared. When I stopped to look for him he was chatting with the neighbor!! :LOL:
 
Your camera is listed as a back up camera, not an observation camera. The problem isn't where the antenna is located but the refresh rate of the monitor.
Going slow and backing allows the monitor's refresh rate to 'keep up' with your speed. The monitor can't refresh fast enough while going at speeds as on the highway. Hence the drop out or broken image.
If you want to observe, monitor what may be behind you while you travel you'll need a Furrion observation system.

https://www.furrion.com/store/camer...ation-system-with-mounting-bracket-p-916.html
 
Your camera is listed as a back up camera, not an observation camera. The problem isn't where the antenna is located but the refresh rate of the monitor.
Going slow and backing allows the monitor's refresh rate to 'keep up' with your speed. The monitor can't refresh fast enough while going at speeds as on the highway. Hence the drop out or broken image.
If you want to observe, monitor what may be behind you while you travel you'll need a Furrion observation system.

https://www.furrion.com/store/camer...ation-system-with-mounting-bracket-p-916.html

That definitely explains the occasional mini-freezing and jumping I see … and can live with. It’s the black screen indicating lack of connection that’s really annoying. The flash of light as it cuts out and comes back catches the vision and was distracting to start (I’ve learned now to ignore it.) This is the flickering of which I was speaking. I wasn’t clear, I know. I’ve managed to straighten the antenna on the trailer and attempt to make sure the antenna on the monitor is straight (I don’t always have the monitor straight up and down so that sometimes requires some adjustment). These corrections have helped considerably with the black-outs, but haven’t eliminated them.

I have an antenna with an extender cable attached to the trailer camera, but currently have it mounted right on the camera hood. (There was a user-error mounting issue and the standard antenna didn’t fit but the extender one does). I’m going to eventually mount the extender antenna closer to the front of the trailer … once I figure out how. It has a strong magnet, but nothing on the top of the trailer is ferrous metal and I’m afraid to use any sort of “glue” to hold it to my roof for fear of a unintended chemical reaction.
 
You could fasten a small metal plate to the roof and caulk it into place. Then attach the antenna to that. I have done that more than once for CB or cellular antennas.

Aaron:cool:
 
You could fasten a small metal plate to the roof and caulk it into place. Then attach the antenna to that. I have done that more than once for CB or cellular antennas.

Aaron:cool:

What kind of caulk? I'm so gun-shy about doing anything on the roof for fear that it will dissolve the membrane. I remember something about not using silicone, but not much more than that. Heck, if I'm going to fully honest ... I don't even know what material my roof is! :eek:
 
What kind of caulk? I'm so gun-shy about doing anything on the roof for fear that it will dissolve the membrane. I remember something about not using silicone, but not much more than that. Heck, if I'm going to fully honest ... I don't even know what material my roof is! :eek:

Roof is non-reinforced TPO (Thermo-Poly-Olefin), fancy name for plastic. :LOL:

You want a urethane sealant, something like either the Dicor or Tremco Vulkem 116 (Home Depot stocks it). I would cut a small metal plate a couple of inches larger than your magnetic base, carefully round the edges and check for burrs. Then apply sealant to the back side and press it on the roof, then run a heavy bead around the edges.

Aaron:cool:
 
Roof is non-reinforced TPO (Thermo-Poly-Olefin), fancy name for plastic. :LOL:

You want a urethane sealant, something like either the Dicor or Tremco Vulkem 116 (Home Depot stocks it). I would cut a small metal plate a couple of inches larger than your magnetic base, carefully round the edges and check for burrs. Then apply sealant to the back side and press it on the roof, then run a heavy bead around the edges.

Aaron:cool:

One of the products I make utilizes "Water absorbing polymer crystals" ... I can see my customer's eyes glaze over by the second word. I then say, "at least that's what's on the box ... I just call it 'magic plastic'"! :LOL:

Anyway, I'm going to take it in this winter and have a vent fan installed ... I'll see if there's something they can do while they have the materials out and are working on the roof. They may be able to utilize the 'left-over' material and I figure it might just be cheaper than me buying full packages of the stuff.
 

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