New to RV and going full time!

JO

Jose-DUTCH

New Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2023
Posts
9
Location
Palm Harbor
We're about to own a 2021 Voltage Triton 4271. I have a 3500 Silverado dually. I've done very little towing in my life especially of this size and weigh! Any recommendations or helpful hints from experienced peeps would be awesome. Also, anyone owns a Triton 4271 and want to hit me up with upgrades or recommendations.
 
Jose, Congratulations on your new camper. I recommend that you spend a few days in a LOCAL campground before hitting the road for real. There is one here on OLD PASCO ROAD off of CR 54 that would be excellent for a "shakedown" period. It's not too far but far enough you would get a real FEEL for your new outfit. I also may recommend you consider adding airbags to your truck.
\
Good Luck and Happy Trails
Frank
 
Frank's advice of staying at a local park before the great adventure is great advice.

I give myself more room between me and vehicle in front of me when towing compared to when I'm driving our Subaru Outback.

Just last week I drove 25 miles out of the way going around San Antonio, TX rather than through it to avoid 12 lane freeways with bumper to bumper traffic. Part of that is my rural background coupled with 68 revolutions around the sun!

I'd bet someone has already told you about Escapees or some company like that for your snail mail.

YouTube and websites like this are your friend to make repairs that will inevitably be needed on the RV.
 
franktafl said:
Jose, Congratulations on your new camper. I recommend that you spend a few days in a LOCAL campground before hitting the road for real. There is one here on OLD PASCO ROAD off of CR 54 that would be excellent for a "shakedown" period. It's not too far but far enough you would get a real FEEL for your new outfit. I also may recommend you consider adding airbags to your truck.
\
Good Luck and Happy Trails
Frank
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Thanks for the advise! We're sticking around the same campground for a month and a half to get acquainted with the new digs. We'll practice going to the dump as it doesn't have sewage hookup but I'm taking that time to get more experience pulling and backing up.
 
Sticki said:
Frank's advice of staying at a local park before the great adventure is great advice.

I give myself more room between me and vehicle in front of me when towing compared to when I'm driving our Subaru Outback.

Just last week I drove 25 miles out of the way going around San Antonio, TX rather than through it to avoid 12 lane freeways with bumper to bumper traffic. Part of that is my rural background coupled with 68 revolutions around the sun!

I'd bet someone has already told you about Escapees or some company like that for your snail mail.

YouTube and websites like this are your friend to make repairs that will inevitably be needed on the RV.
Click to expand...
Great info! I've been slowing down more even with my new dually, coming from a Honda Ridgeline to a 3500HD Silverado. Lots of post and videos out there which I've been watching. It gets overwhelming at times. I'm a handy person and I intend to dig into every inch of the RV. We will be doing Escapees. I believe that is the best option for us. Thank you for your feedback!
 
Suggest you limit all your initial travels to daytime and good weather. That trailer is a beast and maneuvering will take some learning. After you have been in and out of familiar territory and learn your turning radius in and outs then night travel is not so bad but just about every scrape or close call I ever have is after a long day of travel that finishes after dark.

Also, take note of how much sharper the trailer tracks to the apex of your turn than your truck does. In other words, you need to make really wide turns to avoid medians/islands and curbs. When making left turns the trailer will be much closer to oncoming traffic as you complete your turn and when making right turns from the right lane be very careful of clipping curbs.

Also, gas stations can be really tricky to avoid overhangs and pump islands, and driveways into gas stations can be surprisingly steep causing your trailer to scrape and even bend corners on the way in or out. Not a bad idea to carry a 5 gallon fuel can in your truck bed full of diesel so if necessary you can fill up if you get stuck. Also, while I have never had to do it, I would suggest you consider pulling over on the street and unhooking in order to fuel up at a tight gas station. The 10 or so minute inconvenience could save you from a ton of damage to your trailer.

Take great care to check your tire pressures before starting out and at fuel stops. You will have no sense of a failing tire and the cheap Chinese tires that will be on your trailer are very susceptible to blowouts. Consider replacing the tires with quality tires made in America. They are pricey but have higher speed ratings and perform much better. I spent a few hundred on tire pressure monitors which includes an LCD display I mount on my windshield for piece of mind.

Triple check your hitch is securely connected and latched. If the trailer came out of the hitch you could total your truck and trailer and do some serious damage.

Don’t forget to lower your tailgate when connecting and disconnecting. Lots of damaged tailgates from forgetting this. Seems obvious but you will be surprised.

You will have great times but it can be overwhelming if you are not careful and methodical.

I could go on for days….
 
By the way, while I was at the show I found a new mail service. Myrvmail. They are located in crestview (up in the panhandle). I’d like to find out about how you like your truck also. I’m shopping for a 2500hd.

By the way, DSOL has some great points, especially about the tailgate.
 
franktafl said:
By the way, while I was at the show I found a new mail service. Myrvmail. They are located in crestview (up in the panhandle). I’d like to find out about how you like your truck also. I’m shopping for a 2500hd.

By the way, DSOL has some great points, especially about the tailgate.
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I'll have to check into Myrvmail. So far I love my truck. Big test will be this weekend when I pick up the RV and drive 2 hours to our first destination!
 
franktafl said:
Does your truck h ave airbags or any such thing? That’s a lot of weight in the back.
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No airbags. Silverado 3500hd 4x4 LT 4dr Crew Cab LB DRW has a tow limit of 31,180. The Rv dry weight is 15,100 so I figure loaded will be around 20k. I will look into airbags as we will move more often during the coming months. What so you think?
 
Jose, do you know the pin weight of your 5th wheel. (The amount of pounds the 5th wheel will transfer to the bed of your pickup)?
 
Jose said:
No airbags. Silverado 3500hd 4x4 LT 4dr Crew Cab LB DRW has a tow limit of 31,180. The Rv dry weight is 15,100 so I figure loaded will be around 20k. I will look into airbags as we will move more often during the coming months. What so you think?
Click to expand...

The sales guy from coast Buick/gmc got a 2500 in today he wants me to look at. It has Almost has everything we want. I’m sure I will need to add airbags to make sure I get a nicer ride when hooked up. They seem to absorb some of the shock of the road and keep it from transferring directly to the rv. Not sure if it helps much but in my little brain, it seems to make some sense.
 
Air bags are a must. Your truck can handle the weight but your headlights will be high when you are towing. Also consider how much water you are carrying. This adds pin weight and is ok for a short distance but over a long haul will ruin your rear tires leading to a blow out on the highway. Learned this the hard way. Try to stay 1/4 tank or less while traveling.
If you drive 70+ consider going up one or two weight classes on the RV tires. I went for the Goodyear motorhome tires and never had a failure.
Pull your unit to a local parking lot and get used to how it turns, how to back up, pull into fuel stations, etc. I pulled a Voltage 3970 for 7 years, and on the 6th year I let my guard down for just a moment and ended up with scrapes and a shattered window.
Get a phone app like gas buddy or the travel link on Sirius. Don't assume you can make the next station as it may have a low overhang. Good advice earlier about carrying extra fuel or unhooking.
I'm now 67 and we just traded in on a Sprinter-based motorhome. I'll miss the Voltage but it is time to simplify life.
 
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Instead of air bags, I would look at Timbrens. Much less expensive and easy to install.
-Jeff
 
Hello,
We are new to RVing and we are in the process of purchasing a Voltage 4271 for full time stationary living. We are concerned about the 3 AC’s keeping the rig cool. My husband will be working in the Rv 3x per week. We are in SC where it gets hot and humid during the summer. From your experience, do the 3 AC’s keep your RV cool? Also, do they keep the garage cool? Am I able to run the AC’s with the microwave, laptops, etc running. Thanks so much!
 
We are new to RVing and we are in the process of purchasing a Voltage 4271 for full time stationary living. We are concerned about the 3 AC’s keeping the rig cool. My husband will be working in the Rv 3x per week. We are in SC where it gets hot and humid during the summer. From your experience, do the 3 AC’s keep your RV cool? Also, do they keep the garage cool? Am I able to run the AC’s with the microwave, laptops, etc running. Thanks so much!
 
AC Mod

We have a 2 AC 3605 that always had trouble with the garage. Our solution was to put a fan in the garage doorway and blow some cool air. I saw this video on another forum and it works great!
I wish that I would have done it sooner. We have been out in 90 degree days with no problem. You can actually feel cold air coming out of the vent in back now. I also found that the stock vent in ours blocked too much air and upgraded the vents with these. Amazon.com While replacing the vents I discovered some of the ducts were not taped and one was not cut right into the air duct. about 40 percent of it was blocked, so I cut the duct out and taped the ones that needed sealed. Between these 2 simple mods, its a world of difference.
-Jeff
 
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