Finally decided to get a little comfortable

[gtruchot1]

That all makes sense. Considering I need a new battery, not sure the best application. 2 - 6V in series? 2 - 12V Parallel? Single 12V.

 

[wahoonc]

That all makes sense. Considering I need a new battery, not sure the best application. 2 - 6V in series? 2 - 12V Parallel? Single 12V.

How are you going to use it? A lot of dry camping, or plugged up most of the time? What time of the year? For the first dual 6v, if you are staying plugged up most of the time a single 12 should cover you. We camp plugged up 98% of the time, for the odd dry weekend trip I take a second 12v battery along to swap out if necessary, but that is only if we are going to be running the furnace.

Aaron

 

[Infinityrver]

I too, am plugged in 98% of the time. During my travels from Maine to Florida My DW and I like to have creature features. I've installed a 5000 watt inverter with three 12v batteries in parallel.

We dry camp on the way down by stopping into truck stops and Wally Worlds. We're able to run microwave, toaster, & coffee maker. O' yea, and an electric blanket. We travel in November and March.

Again, like mentioned above, it all depends on what is important to you for your battery needs.

 

[gtruchot1]

Thank you all again for the advise so far, it has been very useful. I have been making pretty good progress with this and it is quite fun and refreshing!!!

Regarding the tank monitor, I found that my battery is good and was charged with my home connection. But the tank monitor still does not register. Is there a switch for it? Or do I need to change something from 110V to the 12V for the battery? Or any other ideas?

Thank you all again!

Greg

 

[ewarnerusa]

Probably a loose wire. the tank monitors are notoriously inaccurate anyways.

 

[EricNSTL]

Regarding the tank monitor, I found that my battery is good and was charged with my home connection. But the tank monitor still does not register. Is there a switch for it? Or do I need to change something from 110V to the 12V for the battery? Or any other ideas?

There should be 12VDC at the monitoring panel. Take it off and check with a meter. I don't have a diagram of what the wiring connections are to tell you where to check, but somewhere on it the 12VDC should be present. If the voltage is present, then something wrong with the monitoring panel, if its not there, check all you fuses in the electrical distribution panel.

If you can take a picture of the wiring on the panel, I might be able to help more.

Good Luck!

 

[gtruchot1]

EricNSTL-

I am trying to attach a photo that I think you were asking about. I tested all fuses and they work fine. The monitoring panel is just about the only thing that is not working at all. Thoughts?

 

[EricNSTL]

EricNSTL-

I am trying to attach a photo that I think you were asking about. I tested all fuses and they work fine. The monitoring panel is just about the only thing that is not working at all. Thoughts?

I was talking about the panel that has the tank level indicators on it. Mine looks like this.

The if the tank monitoring panel has power, then your tank level sensors are probably not working properly.

 

[gtruchot1]

How about this one? Pump works but nothing else. Oh look....it is only sideways instead up upside down this time. Maybe someday I will figure out some of this technology.

 

[EricNSTL]

How about this one? Pump works but nothing else. Oh look....it is only sideways instead up upside down this time. Maybe someday I will figure out some of this technology.

View attachment 1873

I found that it is a KIB K21 Monitor Panel.

So when you push the test button nothing lights up right?


Pull the panel down and on the back of the test switch there should be two wires. One goes to the board and the other should have 12VDC. If you find the 12VDC is there, then I would guess the board is bad and needs replaced. If power is not there, then you need to find out where it comes from.

If you can find a wiring diagram for it I might be able to help more. I tried KIB's website and they didn't have anything. Maybe you can call them.

 

[gtruchot1]

Correct, nothing lights up. Any trick to pulling the panel down? I pulled on it a little, but stopped concerned about breaking it. But I suppose if it doesn't work, breaking it couldn't hurt much.

I will seed if I can get in touch with them and see what wisdom they might be able to shed.

Cheers!

 

[wahoonc]

Correct, nothing lights up. Any trick to pulling the panel down? I pulled on it a little, but stopped concerned about breaking it. But I suppose if it doesn't work, breaking it couldn't hurt much.

I will seed if I can get in touch with them and see what wisdom they might be able to shed.

Cheers!

Stick a small screw driver in at that slot on the top (on the left in your picture) the frame is screwed to the wall, the rest of the panel should pop off. Go gently.

Aaron

 

[gtruchot1]

Awesome advice and direction! I was able to determine it is the "switch" itself. Now to just find one! Any suggestions?

 

[wahoonc]

See if there is a NEMA number on it. Plug that into Amazon and see what comes up. Usually switches are pretty generic. If all else fails, take to an electronics store or electrical supply house and see what matches up. Grainger is one place that has a lot of stuff.

Aaron

 

[gtruchot1]

Spoke with KIB Electronics. Very friendly company! And they are sending a replacement switch n/c. The kind of customer service that wins and keeps customers!

 

[EricNSTL]

Spoke with KIB Electronics. Very friendly company! And they are sending a replacement switch n/c. The kind of customer service that wins and keeps customers!

Awesome!

 

[gtruchot1]

Well, I guess not. But I was able to find a switch locally. It all seams to be working well. Had a chance to dump tanks this weekend and all seems well on that end. Now I just need to decide to fix the existing toilet or replace it with a new. Any suggestions?