12v systems question

[Drew_Clark]

Hi all.
I have a battery issue on my Kodiak Cub 177RB. Can someone help me find the battery fuse?
The battery is charged but I only get 12v service in the trailer when connected to the 110 hook up. The jacks work on battery 12v but nothing in the trailer itself.
Thanks very much

 

[persistent]

My Cub has a WFCO converter/charger. It is part of the circuit breaker and fuse panel.

The fuse panel has a row of low capacity fuses for 12 volt circuits. It also has higher capacity fuses. Mine has a 40 amp and a 30 amp fuse. Some have another high capacity fuse. These high capacity fuses keep the converter/charger and the battery bank safe. If one is blown, battery bank will be disconnected.

There is another possibility. I like others have installed a battery disconnect near the battery for disconnecting for long term storage. Check for a disconnect.

There is also likely a 30 amp circuit breaker in the battery cable near the battery. Mine is a self resetting one. Some people have one or two that are manually reset with a little button. It would be a small 2.0 inch by 1.5 inch plastic or metal can with two heavy cable connections.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Automati...55bd35a78d0f1e56d57d530ee0a73bd1&gclsrc=3p.ds

 

[Franktafl]

Hi all.
I have a battery issue on my Kodiak Cub 177RB. Can someone help me find the battery fuse?
The battery is charged but I only get 12v service in the trailer when connected to the 110 hook up. The jacks work on battery 12v but nothing in the trailer itself.
Thanks very much

Hello Drew, welcome to the forum! I’m a little confused, you mention that you have 12 volt service when hooked up to the 110 system. Do you have any of your 120 volt systems working or just the 12 volt stuff? If you turn on all your 12 volt stuff, you should start to hear a fan, that’s the inverter.

Is your rv new?

 

[Drew_Clark]

My Cub has a WFCO converter/charger. It is part of the circuit breaker and fuse panel.

The fuse panel has a row of low capacity fuses for 12 volt circuits. It also has higher capacity fuses. Mine has a 40 amp and a 30 amp fuse. Some have another high capacity fuse. These high capacity fuses keep the converter/charger and the battery bank safe. If one is blown, battery bank will be disconnected.

There is another possibility. I like others have installed a battery disconnect near the battery for disconnecting for long term storage. Check for a disconnect.

There is also likely a 30 amp circuit breaker in the battery cable near the battery. Mine is a self resetting one. Some people have one or two that are manually reset with a little button. It would be a small 2.0 inch by 1.5 inch plastic or metal can with two heavy cable connections.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Automati...55bd35a78d0f1e56d57d530ee0a73bd1&gclsrc=3p.ds

Thanks, that is really helpful.
Interesting about the breaker / trips as that has answered another question.
I have found the problem and it was the negative battery connection to the trailer chassis. A little corrosion cleaned up and some electrical grease has fixed it for now.

 

[Drew_Clark]

Hello Drew, welcome to the forum! I’m a little confused, you mention that you have 12 volt service when hooked up to the 110 system. Do you have any of your 120 volt systems working or just the 12 volt stuff? If you turn on all your 12 volt stuff, you should start to hear a fan, that’s the inverter.

Is your rv new?

Hi, and thanks for the welcome.

Sorry, my description was a little confusing and as I have only recently moved to Canada from England, I am still using a lot of our terminology. I don't think it always translates well!

Problem was that I had 12v in the trailer from the 110v AC converter when connected via the hook-up, but nothing without the converter.

It was the connection to the battery negative from the trailer chassis. This had corroded. Now fixed and all good.

European travel trailers (Caravans) do not use the chassis as the 12v negative (mostly light weight chassis made of aluminium and not the full length of the RV). Therefore I was a little lost

Thanks again for the help from the forum.

 

[Franktafl]

Hi, and thanks for the welcome.

Sorry, my description was a little confusing and as I have only recently moved to Canada from England, I am still using a lot of our terminology. I don't think it always translates well!

Problem was that I had 12v in the trailer from the 110v AC converter when connected via the hook-up, but nothing without the converter.

It was the connection to the battery negative from the trailer chassis. This had corroded. Now fixed and all good.

European travel trailers (Caravans) do not use the chassis as the 12v negative (mostly light weight chassis made of aluminium and not the full length of the RV). Therefore I was a little lost

Thanks again for the help from the forum.

It will be interesting to hear about your adventures and how they differ from your experiences in Europe. I am always envious of my wife’s cousin’s (they live in Germany) travels between countries, their day trips to Belgium or Austria, and the diversity and differences in language as you transverse borders there.

…and the food and beer! But fortunately, we have plenty of ice here and prefer our beer cold!

 

[swixelann]

Check fuses on the power convertor. Typically, 40 Amp buss style. Power convertor is floor mounted BEHIND the circuit breaker panel at the rear of my Denali 289RK RV. Had to power down (110V and 12 VDC) before removing the circuit breaker panel. Pain in the tail to access due to great feat of engineering at the factory.