Wave 8 Catalytic Heater Install HELP

[slb5146]

I am trying to install my Wave 8 Catalytic Heater into the LP Gas distribution for my Voltage.

I currently have the heater connected to a regulator on a 15 pound tank. I want it connected permanently into the 1/2 inch distribution line that supplies my hot water tank, Range, and refrigerator. The following picture shows a special tee in the 1/2 inch line with two 3/8 inch hoses going to the hot water and range.

I tried to get a close-up of the label. This is the best I could do tonight. I have googled for this thing for hours and can not find it.

I am looking for some safe way to cut into this 1/2 inch line and branch off with another 3/8 inch line to my heater. Can anybody offer suggestions for how connect my 3/8 inch line into this 1/2 supply line?

[prm99v6]

I have that same piece on my Aerolite and have had the same results. Nothing! The company has nothing about that piece on their website and I never got around to calling them.

I was going to piece together my own T out of pieces from Lowes.

Good luck with the hunt.

[sundancer 87]

It seems as if all one needs to do is get a brass tee with the proper size fittings. Pipe thread is most common and that should thread into the aluminun manifold. From the brass tee you'll need to get a pipe to reverse flare adapter.
Remove one of the appliance hoses, install the brass tee, connect the heater and the appliance hose, and cap off the remaining tee port.

3/8 ths pipe thread probably and 1/4 inch reverse flare adapter and the cap.

http://www.propanewarehouse.com/brassfittings.asp look here for fittings.

[slb5146]

Originally Posted by sundancer 87

It seems as if all one needs to do is get a brass tee with the proper size fittings. Pipe thread is most common and that should thread into the aluminun manifold. From the brass tee you'll need to get a pipe to reverse flare adapter.
Remove one of the appliance hoses, install the brass tee, connect the heater and the appliance hose, and cap off the remaining tee port.

3/8 ths pipe thread probably and 1/4 inch reverse flare adapter and the cap.

Propane Brass Fittings look here for fittings.

I really wish I could understand all of the above. I can not seem to find fitting to accomplish this.
If I could get one of the following tee's with 1/2 inch pipe threads X 3/8 inch flare I think I would be off and running with this project. This fitting only comes in 1/4 inch. My main distribution line is 1/2 inch. I want to tee out of this to a 3/8 flare.
Tee Male Pipe x Female Pipe x Male Flare

[sundancer 87]

Originally Posted by slb5146

I really wish I could understand all of the above. I can not seem to find fitting to accomplish this.
If I could get one of the following tee's with 1/2 inch pipe threads X 3/8 inch flare I think I would be off and running with this project. This fitting only comes in 1/4 inch. My main distribution line is 1/2 inch. I want to tee out of this to a 3/8 flare.
Tee Male Pipe x Female Pipe x Male Flare

From your photo of the manifold it looks like all the fittings are pipe thread. Female 3/8ths and 1/4 inch pipe.

If you can find a 3/8ths female pipe tee it would take the place of one of the smaller lines. You would then need a female to male pipe adapter to reinstall the line where you placed the tee.
For the heater you would need a 3/8ths female pipe to whatever the size and configuration is required by the heater.

To me it would be easier and simple to tap off the manifold with a tee rather than going in series with the main feed line.

It's hard to tell without actually seeing what is connected to the manifold.

ACE hardware of Lowes should have all the parts you need.

[arlan in arizona]

I might be able to help with this but I need a couple of days to get back to a decent internet connection and my desktop computer . I am currently boon-docking out in the desert.

In the second photo you posted. I had the same manifold but only a single 1/2" hose came in from the propane supply. The two 3/8" were there. One for the refrigerator and the other for the stove. Where does your other 1/2" hose go?

[slb5146]

I am not absolutely sure about the destination for the Range and Refrigerator but as best I can tell the following is correct.

[arlan in arizona]

Nice work on the photo illustrations.

OK, I have two Catalytic Wave Heaters installed in my 3905. A Wave 6 in the garage.


And a Wave 8 in the main living area.


Both plumbed with Quick Disconnects.


As I mention earlier in this thread, my manifold had a plug on one of the 1/2" pipe thread side. It was a bear to get the plug out so I don't advise trying to remove one of the hoses and replace it with a tee. I will explain.

First I put an end wrench on the plug. It would not budge. The I put a 6 point socket and a 3/8" drive ractched. It would not budge. I then put the socket on a breaker bar, said a prayer and pulled. The cheap lag bolts they use all over these units snapped. I had to then remove the bolts with vice grip, I have previous experience do that. Then drill out the holes in both the frame and manifold and install 1/4" bolts with nut. Now I try again to remove the plug. Yeah, it come out but not with out bending the 1/4" bolts holding the manifold in place.

That is why I don't think you can get the hose with the 1/2" pipe fitting loose. I could be wrong.

What I did was run a gas line to a location behind and under my pantry. Doing this was not terribly difficult once I got it figured out. With the wall removed I could determine where to drill. I removed the heater duct in there and pushed it down into the floor allowing me to reach in a feel around for access. Had to be careful as the kitchen grey water tank is right there.

So I connect and 1/2" pipe to 3/8" flare adapter and start my run. The adapter is the one on the right side of the photo.

I first installed another Quick Disconnect at this point for a BBQ. It did not work as low pressure gas would not run my BBQ. So I had to move it. Now the hose is to short so I just use a coupler and made a short hose to fill the gap. The couple you see could be the tee I recommend farther along in this post.



I was going to just bend the hose and go through the floor but ended up thinks that would not work so I used a 90 degree 1/2" pipe elbow and 1/2" black pipe to come through the floor. Oh and not before installing a shut off valve.


Once the pipe was through the floor I installed a 1/2" pipe to 3/8" flare tee.


And plumbed two of them to their locations.




I realize that is not necessary what your are wanting to accomplish but I am sharing my experience it installing these heaters.

So, I looking at your photograph. It appears your heater is sitting on the steps into your bedroom/bathroom area. Is that correct. And if so is that where you want the heater to be locater. Is the heater hooked up at all, and where do you plan to bring the gas line in?

As far as where to tee off of the gas line I see two possible choices. On either of the larger gas line coming into the manifold. Or where the gas line comes down from the large regulator on the passenger side of the truck. I have a Quick Disconnect installed on the high pressure side at that location.


Now getting on to your installation. Obviously you need to get the gas line to the choose heater location. If you put 3/8" flare fitting on each side of the cut hose, you can install and 3/8" flare/flare/flare tee at that point and run your gas line into your trailer. I wanted Quick Disconnects as the heater I have in my living are is moved to the garage when I travel. It stills on the floor in front of the Wave 6 and is strapped piggyback style with both covered.


Covers not shown.

If you decide to tee at the regulator, again be advised that when they install the gas lines at the factory, they must use Lock Tight for thread sealant.

Hope this help some what.

Arlan

[slb5146]

Originally Posted by arlan in arizona

So, I looking at your photograph. It appears your heater is sitting on the steps into your bedroom/bathroom area. Is that correct. And if so is that where you want the heater to be locater. Is the heater hooked up at all, and where do you plan to bring the gas line in?

Thank you Arlan for a wonderful response with pictures. Thank you, Thank you.
I plan to leave the heater on the step between the bathroom and the hall to the bedroom. It is attached to the wall and with a 1x2 underneath the heater to allow air to flow into the heater air intake in the bottom.
The heater is currently hooked up with a 12 foot hose with regulator to a separate 15# propane tank that's not connected to RV propane system. I want to connect it permanently to the house system.
You now have me scared to try to unscrew the 1/2 inch hose from the manifold. I was hoping to unscrew it and put in a 1/2 tee with a 3/8 flare going to the heater.

[arlan in arizona]

Originally Posted by slb5146

Thank you Arlan for a wonderful response with pictures. Thank you, Thank you.
I plan to leave the heater on the step between the bathroom and the hall to the bedroom. It is attached to the wall and with a 1x2 underneath the heater to allow air to flow into the heater air intake in the bottom.

The heater is currently hooked up with a 12 foot hose with regulator to a separate 15# propane tank that's not connected to RV propane system. I want to connect it permanently to the house system.
You now have me scared to try to unscrew the 1/2 inch hose from the manifold. I was hoping to unscrew it and put in a 1/2 tee with a 3/8 flare going to the heater.

Well, if it does not unscrew the worst you can do is round off the nut. I just went out and look under my trailer again. I have another manifold downstream from the one I was talking about. First time I've seen it. Mine is LP in to manifold then one line goes to the house heater, one to the water heater and the one you have marked range range goes to my second manifold that supplies LP to the range and refrigerator.

Honestly, I don't think would have a problem cutting and tapping a tee into the hose if you cant get it loose. Also you will have to lower that manifold to screw a tee to it. If you get a hose loose make sure to wrap the new threads with the yellow Teflon gas tape or use the paste stuff in a tube. I really think it would be much easier in the long run to cut and install a flare tee. I know, it's easy for me to say but I really do believe that. Everything is low pressure and you can use hose clamps on the new flare fittings. I had mine clamped with the barrel sleeve things just because I was making up the hoses from scratch and they were in my hands and easy to take to the hardware store. The flare fittings set with low torque and they are swivel (don't know if that is the word I'm looking for) so you don't have to wind and unwind hose to install them. You could tie into any of the hoses in your picture. I think they are all 1/4" ID for 1/4" barb.

If you do decide to cut the hose. Do so and install one flare on the piece coming from the manifold. The figure how much hose you will have to cut out to make your tee fit. You might not have to remove any. In either case just make sure you don't remove to much.

If your hardware store is close, go down there and hold the parts in your hands. That's what I did and felt better about the installation afterwards.

I did a Wave 3 installation in my slide in camper years ago. Cutting and teeing into copper line was way worse. But it hasn't leaked since in did it back about the year 2000.

Have fun and good luck.

Arlan

[sundancer 87]

Flare nut wrenches will keep one from rounding the facets on brass fittings.
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2650-Fl...are+nut+wrench

[arlan in arizona]

Originally Posted by sundancer 87

Flare nut wrenches will keep one from rounding the facets on brass fittings.
TEKTON 2650 Flare Nut Wrench Set, SAE, 6-Piece - Amazon.com

Perhaps for the correct application. But if you look at the second photo of the manifold with hoses attached, there is no way that wrench would ever make its way to the nut. The hose and crimp sleeve are larger than the nut, and way larger than the opening of the wrench. And, in my situation anyway, it took a long handle to get enough leverage to break a plug loose. Perhaps the hose fittings are not as tight as the plug that was in my manifold. There is only one way to find out.

[slb5146]

Originally Posted by sundancer 87

Flare nut wrenches will keep one from rounding the facets on brass fittings.
TEKTON 2650 Flare Nut Wrench Set, SAE, 6-Piece - Amazon.com

I have some of these but I did not know they were for flare nuts. Thank you very much.

[arlan in arizona]

Originally Posted by slb5146

I have some of these but I did not know they were for flare nuts. Thank you very much.

They actually are for flare nuts but for use on Connection Fittings on Fuel, Brake, and Air Conditioning Lines, Where the line is of small diameter and you can get the wench onto the nut.

Keep of informed of the progress on your installation. I for one am very interested.

[slb5146]

Originally Posted by arlan in arizona

Keep of informed of the progress on your installation. I for one am very interested.

I think you all have given me what I need. I appreciate it very much. I will reply as soon as I can complete this project.

I am very busy setting up, broadcasting meetings on the internet, recording, packing, loading, traveling. My schedule is very tight right now. See my schedule on the left side of my web site. I really want to finish this project as soon as I can. I am already getting great benefit from the temporary hook-up of my new Catalytic Heater. My battery bank is holding up great now that I don't have to run the big furnace all night.

[slb5146]

I finally got around to finishing the install on my Wave 8 Catalytic Heater today. The following picture shows where I tapped into the main line coming right out of the regulator with a 3/8 inch tee. This was after considering all of the post above and a trip to Lowes and two trips to True Value Hardware. I am so glad this is done. Thank you one and all for your help and suggestions. I really appreciate your help with this project.

Up until today I have been running the heater from a portable propane tank with an extra regulator and 12' hose.

[arlan in arizona]

Looks Great!