Air conditioners, the vent ducts are not working!!! - Page 13 - Dutchmen Owners
Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×

Go Back   Dutchmen Owners > Dutchmen Technical | Towing, Maintenance and Repairs > Heating, Cooling and Appliances
Click Here to Login
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 06-04-2015, 10:53 AM   #241
Senior Member
 
Thom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Youngstown
Posts: 712
Florida
Just curious, has anyone pulled the other zone a/c(s) to see how they are taped?
I noticed condensation on all my vents all day long the last time camping world allowed me to use my 3950. I guess I will be pulling mine if I ever get to bring it home.
__________________

Thom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2015, 09:55 PM   #242
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Saint George
Posts: 37
South Carolina
I did not pull the front or rear off the roof. You can see it all and fix it from the inside. They were also poorly taped from the factory.
__________________

rcpilot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2016, 09:45 PM   #243
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Sugar Land
Posts: 10
Texas
New to the forum! I just bought my Voltage 3950 (2013) last week. I was so disappointed how poorly the Zone 1 AC was throwing air. It was 100 degrees outside, and I couldn't cool the inside to 90. So disheartened until... I found this forum! Thank you so much for giving me hope that I can correct the air flow in this unit. These things are so expensive, and when the dealer says the vents are blowing cold, they are. There just isn't any air volume. I feel snookered by the dealer, but now I'm in control and will fix it. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
smackdaddy66 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2016, 12:42 AM   #244
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Saint George
Posts: 37
South Carolina
smackdaddy

Welcome to the forums. It's a great place to learn from others. I've learned a lot of very helpful info here.

Your zone 1 problem is exactly what we had two years ago. After I made the mods to the duct system it is much better. You will get much better airflow and it really helps. I dry camp a lot in the summer here in South Carolina at RC airplane meets. The generator and AC is off during the day when I am outside. I will turn it on around 5-6pm with the inside temp at 95°. The inside temp is in the upper 70s by 7-8pm when I come in. It gets cooler as the outside temps cool. Remember this is from a hot standing start and very very heat soaked.

I also run the front AC and have a small floor fan that blows cool air from the bedroom into the mid cabin. In addition, I strapped a cheap Walmart 20" box fan to the vertical rails in the loft and it blows into the mid cabin. It is controlled by an inline cord switch that hangs into the hall way. It works like a ceiling fan and helps circulate the mid cabin air. This helps the mid cabin cool and feel better faster.

We camped at a regular campground here in SC two times this summer and the temps were 95° to 105° outside. We ran all three ACs on 50 amps. The front and back were always very cool. The mid section struggled to get below 75-76° when the outside was 100°. I just think the mid cabin is too big, not enough insulation, and poor duct design, for the 15K BTU unit. Maybe a duct straight down into the cabin from the air box would do it but that is a lot of work when its mostly working ok. It is only an issue when outside temps are way hot.

Gook luck on your mods. Let us know how it works out.

Just FYI. My latest issue was being unable to run more than one AC at at time on generator power. After some research on the RV forums I learned to check the transfer switch clamping screws. Turns out the fix was to tighten the transfer switch clamping screws on the generator input wires. Once I removed the basement rear wall and transfer switch top, I found all the bus bar clamping screws not very tight. I firmly tightened them all. Now the generator will start and run all three ACs. However, after about 30m seconds the load management system will drop the rear AC and continue to run the mid and front units. I'm sure this is by design.

Campers are like boats, airplanes, and houses. Always something….

Hope this helps.
rcpilot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2016, 09:11 AM   #245
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Callaway
Posts: 864
Maryland
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcpilot View Post
smackdaddy

Welcome to the forums. It's a great place to learn from others. I've learned a lot of very helpful info here.

Your zone 1 problem is exactly what we had two years ago. After I made the mods to the duct system it is much better. You will get much better airflow and it really helps. I dry camp a lot in the summer here in South Carolina at RC airplane meets. The generator and AC is off during the day when I am outside. I will turn it on around 5-6pm with the inside temp at 95°. The inside temp is in the upper 70s by 7-8pm when I come in. It gets cooler as the outside temps cool. Remember this is from a hot standing start and very very heat soaked.

I also run the front AC and have a small floor fan that blows cool air from the bedroom into the mid cabin. In addition, I strapped a cheap Walmart 20" box fan to the vertical rails in the loft and it blows into the mid cabin. It is controlled by an inline cord switch that hangs into the hall way. It works like a ceiling fan and helps circulate the mid cabin air. This helps the mid cabin cool and feel better faster.

We camped at a regular campground here in SC two times this summer and the temps were 95° to 105° outside. We ran all three ACs on 50 amps. The front and back were always very cool. The mid section struggled to get below 75-76° when the outside was 100°. I just think the mid cabin is too big, not enough insulation, and poor duct design, for the 15K BTU unit. Maybe a duct straight down into the cabin from the air box would do it but that is a lot of work when its mostly working ok. It is only an issue when outside temps are way hot.

Gook luck on your mods. Let us know how it works out.

Just FYI. My latest issue was being unable to run more than one AC at at time on generator power. After some research on the RV forums I learned to check the transfer switch clamping screws. Turns out the fix was to tighten the transfer switch clamping screws on the generator input wires. Once I removed the basement rear wall and transfer switch top, I found all the bus bar clamping screws not very tight. I firmly tightened them all. Now the generator will start and run all three ACs. However, after about 30m seconds the load management system will drop the rear AC and continue to run the mid and front units. I'm sure this is by design.

Campers are like boats, airplanes, and houses. Always something….

Hope this helps.
When running three AC units on the genset, put the fridge and water heater on propane. My three units are pulling about 43-44 amps, the fridge on electric pulls 7 amps, thus the LMS shedding the rear AC.

I believe it was found that the LMS sheds loads at 48 amps while on the genset.

Cale
__________________
TV: 2015 F-350 DRW, CC, 4x4, with 14k GVWR package, 98 gallon TransferFlow Aux Tank, Timbren Shocks

TH: 2014 Voltage 3950, Sailun S637 all around
calewjohnson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2016, 11:16 AM   #246
Senior Member
 
donzinger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Memphis
Posts: 1,616
Michigan
Quote:
Originally Posted by calewjohnson View Post
When running three AC units on the genset, put the fridge and water heater on propane. My three units are pulling about 43-44 amps, the fridge on electric pulls 7 amps, thus the LMS shedding the rear AC.

I believe it was found that the LMS sheds loads at 48 amps while on the genset.

Cale
Begins shedding loads at 44 Amp on generator and sheds in the order from top to bottom on your LMS control panel - according to the folks at Precision Circuits. I have had mine spike to 57 amps on generator but it came down fast enough that it did not shed any loads.
__________________
2019 Ram 3500 Limited w/ Max Tow pkg
2005 Cardinal 33LX
2014-3950, Full Paint, 17.5" tires, 370W solar, 3100W Magnum inverter w/ AGS, 7500w diesel generator, Micro-Air Easy Start 364 (x3) SOLD!
donzinger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2016, 11:29 AM   #247
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Saint George
Posts: 37
South Carolina
43-44 amps is where the LMS shed the rear AC. That makes sense.

The problem I had with more than two ACs was the start surge would dump the transfer switch every time. After tightening the transfer switch clamping screws it holds through the start surge will start all three ok till the LMS dumps the rear AC.

I always run the water heater on propane but I just learned about removing the refrig from AC power this summer. Next time out dry camping I will run it on propane. Just never thought of it…

Thanks
rcpilot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2016, 11:31 AM   #248
Senior Member
 
donzinger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Memphis
Posts: 1,616
Michigan
Another suggestion is to install Supco SPP6 hard start capacitors on all three AC units. Big difference at only about $10 each

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
__________________
2019 Ram 3500 Limited w/ Max Tow pkg
2005 Cardinal 33LX
2014-3950, Full Paint, 17.5" tires, 370W solar, 3100W Magnum inverter w/ AGS, 7500w diesel generator, Micro-Air Easy Start 364 (x3) SOLD!
donzinger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2016, 11:45 AM   #249
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Saint George
Posts: 37
South Carolina
Funny you mentioned that. I did that this summer.

I put an SPP6 on each AC. Easy to do. When I went back down stairs to test them out my entire digital control system was inop. Would not come on at all. I went back on roof and disconnected the capacitors and the system worked again but only recognized two AC units. I had to do a reset to get them all back. So I took the capacitors off again. Not sure what happened. I double checked all the connections so I sure nothing was hooked backwards.

Any ideas?
rcpilot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2016, 11:46 AM   #250
Senior Member
 
donzinger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Memphis
Posts: 1,616
Michigan
Wow. No thoughts on that at all unless the phone jack and line connections were bumped in the process...

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
__________________
2019 Ram 3500 Limited w/ Max Tow pkg
2005 Cardinal 33LX
2014-3950, Full Paint, 17.5" tires, 370W solar, 3100W Magnum inverter w/ AGS, 7500w diesel generator, Micro-Air Easy Start 364 (x3) SOLD!
donzinger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2016, 04:24 AM   #251
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: South East
Posts: 234
Mississippi
When I had our Voltage, always wondered why they did not install the 7kw genset, just different run rpms and windings on electrical side. If you price units aftermarket minimal price difference. It would be nice to have this as an option for those with 3 A/C units.
__________________

__________________
David
2014 Voltage 3950
2013 F-350 DRW Lariat
lakebuster is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
air conditioner, duct work, vents

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Dutchmen RV or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT. The time now is 05:02 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2020 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.
×