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Old 10-03-2013, 09:56 PM   #21
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Another tip when winterizing. Open the pressure relief valve on the water heater BEFORE you remove the drain plug.

You can ask me how I know but I may not give a truthful answer.
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Old 11-10-2014, 08:30 PM   #22
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Can anyone tell me where the water pump is located in the Dutchman 278RLS? My hearing is bad so can't just turn on the pump and follow the sound!
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Old 11-10-2014, 09:17 PM   #23
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Another tip when winterizing. Open the pressure relief valve on the water heater BEFORE you remove the drain plug.

You can ask me how I know but I may not give a truthful answer.
I think most of us know the answer to that question.
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Old 11-10-2014, 09:27 PM   #24
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Can anyone tell me where the water pump is located in the Dutchman 278RLS? My hearing is bad so can't just turn on the pump and follow the sound!
My guess by looking at the floor plan it would be under the pantry. Is your hot water heater under the range? Look on the outside & see where it lines up. How about your heater what does it line up with?
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Old 11-10-2014, 10:33 PM   #25
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I think most of us know the answer to that question.
LOL, I just got soaked yesterday... Should have read this on Saturday!
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Old 11-11-2014, 01:17 AM   #26
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My guess by looking at the floor plan it would be under the pantry. Is your hot water heater under the range? Look on the outside & see where it lines up. How about your heater what does it line up with?
Thanks for the tips. Yes hot water heater in under the range. I'll explore under pantry and refrain tomorrow. Got to be there somewhere!
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Old 11-11-2014, 01:19 AM   #27
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Kevin - I probably used a bad term. I'm talking about the actual plug that you unscrew to let the water drain out (from the outside, after you remove the panel. The actual plug is a type of plastic that has just been chewed up over the years. I think most of the reason is that it is so difficult to actually get 'on' it with my tools. Was wondering if a non-plastic plug was made -- or just if there is a better tool, made to work around all of the pipes and actually get 'on' the plug nicely.
Not sure you want a metal plug. The existing plug is made of nylon for a reason. It seems that dissimilar metals corrode and become almost impossible to unscrew. I believe the tank is made of aluminum. Aluminum and brass do corrode when put together.
I bought a couple of Camco spare nylon plugs and a 7/8" socket for my socket wrench to remove the plug. I'll probably need to use the socket extender to clear the piping while turning the wrench.
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Old 11-11-2014, 02:13 PM   #28
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Thanks for the tips. Yes hot water heater in under the range. I'll explore under pantry and refrain tomorrow. Got to be there somewhere!
If it's like mine it's around a corner by the hot water heater, and there's no way to access it without tearing the hot water heater out. So, no easy way to winterize, thanks Dutchman.
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Old 11-11-2014, 02:20 PM   #29
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If it's like mine it's around a corner by the hot water heater, and there's no way to access it without tearing the hot water heater out. So, no easy way to winterize, thanks Dutchman.
Ouch!! I thought that might be the case😩
Guess I'll try using the compressed air method.
Thanks for the response.
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Old 10-25-2015, 06:09 PM   #30
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That was a great
write up thanks all!
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Old 10-07-2018, 11:25 AM   #31
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I can see the the low point drains for my hot and cold water lines. I have the the pull valves on the side inside the convent group on my 2018 voyage 3655. the question i have are underneath the 5th wheel there are two pull valves on the the white pic line pipes and I don't know what they are for. the owners manual doesn't say ay; thing about them.
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Old 10-07-2018, 06:18 PM   #32
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Has anyone tried the antifreeze hand pump kit ? When I spoke to my service department about winterizing, I was told they use those when they winterize. This way seems the easiest since my water pump is mounted in such an inconvenient location.The kit connects to the fresh water connection and after draining and bypassing the hot water heater, you hand pump antifreeze through the system from that point. I have the kit but haven't tried using it.

I also bought the kit to connect to the water pump and pump it in that way. Well after locating the pump I find I would have to do a major reconfiguration of cables and wiring just to get to the pump. I have a Kodiak 255 BHLS and this will be my first year to winterize it. This is my second TT.I don't know why the pump was put into such a difficult place to get to it. My last trailer the pump was conveniently located and easy to modify with the winterizing kit.
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Old 10-07-2018, 10:25 PM   #33
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I haven't, but my water pump is almost impossible to get to as well. I just resorted to winterizing with air and it has worked just fine. We were hovering just above zero last winter for several days and no problems. Just be sure to blow out the spray ball in your black tank (if equipped) and the spray port. I bought a connector that hooks to the city water, set the compressor to 30psi and blow everything out, it takes about 15 minutes. Then just pour some antifreeze in the traps and toilet.
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Old 10-08-2018, 02:13 PM   #34
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I haven't, but my water pump is almost impossible to get to as well. I just resorted to winterizing with air and it has worked just fine. We were hovering just above zero last winter for several days and no problems. Just be sure to blow out the spray ball in your black tank (if equipped) and the spray port. I bought a connector that hooks to the city water, set the compressor to 30psi and blow everything out, it takes about 15 minutes. Then just pour some antifreeze in the traps and toilet.
I too clear the water system with air. Easier when it comes time to use the systems again. No antifreeze in the water lines. Don't forget the spray port also. I purchased a ViAir system, little expensive but works fantastic.
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Old 10-08-2018, 04:29 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by McG's Mobile Manor View Post
I can see the the low point drains for my hot and cold water lines. I have the the pull valves on the side inside the convent group on my 2018 voyage 3655. the question i have are underneath the 5th wheel there are two pull valves on the the white pic line pipes and I don't know what they are for. the owners manual doesn't say ay; thing about them.
Those are the fresh water tank drains.
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Old 10-10-2018, 03:32 PM   #36
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Boatgirl66,
The plastic plugs are standard plumbing hardware. I got a replacement at my local hardware store.
I use a socket, 6 inch extension, and ratchet on mine now. I keep it in my Kodiak Cub permanently since I winter camp and use it frequently.
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Old 10-10-2018, 03:47 PM   #37
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Blowing out with air.

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I too clear the water system with air. Easier when it comes time to use the systems again. No antifreeze in the water lines. Don't forget the spray port also. I purchased a ViAir system, little expensive but works fantastic.
Frank,
When you blow the lines out using the City Water connection, does the pump also get cleared?
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Old 10-10-2018, 04:51 PM   #38
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Frank,
When you blow the lines out using the City Water connection, does the pump also get cleared?
no, you need to run the pump dry.
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Old 10-05-2021, 11:20 PM   #39
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Thanks for the Winterizing instructions

Thank you very much for the time and instructions on your Winterizing your RV.
I was going to take her down to Camping World, but after reading your Forum, I'm
Going to do it at home.
100 dollars and two 60 mile trips to camping World just seems out of the question.
We are done vacating with it but it is still wild fire Fire danger around here in the northern Sierras, Californy.
The coach is our Home on wheels if there is a Evacuation Orders form a wild fire.
We use our sewer Clean out from the house to drain the Coach Black and grey tanks, And drain the Fresh water tank to the Yard plants.
Thanks again for your Forum, Happy Trails, Paul
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Old 10-07-2021, 03:47 PM   #40
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Waste of $$$ to have them do the work and probably miss things. My first year leaving my RV stored outside in Boone taught me valuable lessons on winterizing and to leave NO STONE unturned when completing the job.... including the sink and shower drains (pour antifreeze in them). The rest of my system I just simply hooked up a tankless compressor and blew everything out with about a 35 - 40 PSI pressure. I also have a connection configured so I can make sure the shower port is cleared out (first year mistake). it's also easier to use the RV after the winter since you don't need to rinse out the lines when you begin using it.
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