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Old 09-09-2014, 02:50 AM   #1
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Winterization frequency

Hey there! We just purchased our first TT, it's a Kodiak 291RESL and we can't wait to get out there! I have read about winterizing your trailer and I was curious how often that needed to be done. We plan on camping year around and will be heading out once or twice per month. The trailer will be stored at an outdoor storage facility so it won't be hooked to power while we're not using it. We live Portland, Oregon so while it can get down to freezing, it's not too crazy cold here.

Even though we will be using it all year around, should we plan on winterizing it during the winter months in between our trips? Any feedback would be most helpful.

We pick it up on Friday and will post some pics very soon.

Thanks!
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Old 09-09-2014, 04:40 AM   #2
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Well Kadman, welcome aboard. You're question is kinda like rolling the dice. Any time the trailer is not heated and there is any chance of the water system freezing, it should be winterized. Winterizing prevents ice freezing in the lines and damaging water pumps, hot water heaters, and the water lines themselves. I've worked in and around Portland during the winter and you're right, it doesn't freeze there very much, but it can. So..... it's kind of up to you. How much can you afford to spend on repairs versus the cost and inconvenience of winterizing every couple of weeks. You might investigate storing the unit a little further south.
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Old 09-09-2014, 02:01 PM   #3
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I think that if I were you I would install a small solar panel to keep batteries topped off and I would use a compressor to blow out the lines when you see temps start to dip. This is how I have prepped my rigs for the winter months here in utah and have had no problems. Last year was the first year for our Kodiak. It just takes a few minutes to do and you can avoid the antifreeze thing.
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Old 09-09-2014, 03:23 PM   #4
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X2 on using air to blow the lines. If you don't have a 12V compressor you will want to get one.

My wife opens the taps, starting with the closest to the city water connection, when it starts to sputter she moves down the line to the next tap/valve. Use caution with how much pressure you use. Take the filter cartridge out of the canister, it holds a lot of moisture and will self destruct.

Be sure to dump your tanks and low point drain and blow the lines, before you head home, there's a big time wind chill factor at 65mph.

The only place we use RV antifreeze is the traps, to get the water out of them.
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Old 09-09-2014, 03:37 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by bcs slc View Post
I think that if I were you I would install a small solar panel to keep batteries topped off and I would use a compressor to blow out the lines when you see temps start to dip. This is how I have prepped my rigs for the winter months here in utah and have had no problems. Last year was the first year for our Kodiak. It just takes a few minutes to do and you can avoid the antifreeze thing.
This^^^
Another alternative is to just disconnect the battery completely.
Wind chill does not make things any colder than the ambient temperature. It just makes the temperature equalize more quickly.
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Old 09-09-2014, 04:08 PM   #6
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This^^^
Another alternative is to just disconnect the battery completely.
Wind chill does not make things any colder than the ambient temperature. It just makes the temperature equalize more quickly.
No, wind chill just makes the water in the lines equalize faster, funny how when water equalizes faster in the freezing temperatures it becomes solid.
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Old 09-09-2014, 04:16 PM   #7
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Been RVing for 30+ years but this is a subject I know nothing about...........and glad I don't. Native Southern California guy and after the service moved to the desert 45+ years ago.
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Old 09-10-2014, 12:10 AM   #8
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Well Kadman, welcome aboard. You're question is kinda like rolling the dice. Any time the trailer is not heated and there is any chance of the water system freezing, it should be winterized. Winterizing prevents ice freezing in the lines and damaging water pumps, hot water heaters, and the water lines themselves. I've worked in and around Portland during the winter and you're right, it doesn't freeze there very much, but it can. So..... it's kind of up to you. How much can you afford to spend on repairs versus the cost and inconvenience of winterizing every couple of weeks. You might investigate storing the unit a little further south.
Thanks Jeff! I definitely don't like throwing money away so we will most likely go through the steps after each trip.

Thanks again!

John
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Old 09-10-2014, 12:14 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by bcs slc View Post
I think that if I were you I would install a small solar panel to keep batteries topped off and I would use a compressor to blow out the lines when you see temps start to dip. This is how I have prepped my rigs for the winter months here in utah and have had no problems. Last year was the first year for our Kodiak. It just takes a few minutes to do and you can avoid the antifreeze thing.
Thanks for the ideas! We've talked about some solar panels but during the winters here in Portland, the sun is not out very much! Blowing out the lines is a great idea that we will be using!

Thanks!
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Old 09-10-2014, 12:17 AM   #10
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X2 on using air to blow the lines. If you don't have a 12V compressor you will want to get one.

My wife opens the taps, starting with the closest to the city water connection, when it starts to sputter she moves down the line to the next tap/valve. Use caution with how much pressure you use. Take the filter cartridge out of the canister, it holds a lot of moisture and will self destruct.

Be sure to dump your tanks and low point drain and blow the lines, before you head home, there's a big time wind chill factor at 65mph.

The only place we use RV antifreeze is the traps, to get the water out of them.
Thanks! I already have a compressor and we will definitely be putting it to good use in order to blow out the lines. Removing the filter cartridge first!

Thanks again!
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Old 09-10-2014, 12:18 AM   #11
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Been RVing for 30+ years but this is a subject I know nothing about...........and glad I don't. Native Southern California guy and after the service moved to the desert 45+ years ago.
We will be planning a move to the desert at some point as well. Then we won't have to worry about it either!
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Old 09-10-2014, 03:08 AM   #12
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As a side note on the "blowing of the lines" the pressure on the compressor should NOT exceed 25#. I drain the water heater first and then put the plug back in and close off the relief flapper. Than open up the hot water access and close off the bypass to the water heater so that no air goes into the water heater. Hook the air hose to the city water inlet. Let the line get to pressure and start working form one fixture hot and cold until you get to the fixture closest to the low point drains. Mine are back of rig under the tub. Don't forget the toilet. Let the pressure build up as you move from each hot and cold fixture. This takes about 15minutes. Finally close all fixtures and open each low point. You will know tha it is drained when you can go back to the first fixture and open it. It should be free of water. I will also turn the pump on for a few seconds while under pressure to free this of water as well. Disconnect the air and turn your bypass back to the the original position. Crack the drain on the water heater one more time and you are done. Also you can pick up a quick connect fitting for the air hose from Homedepot at will screw right into the city water. If you have any questions you can message me and I can walk you through it or snap some pics.
good look.
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Old 09-10-2014, 04:43 AM   #13
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As a side note on the "blowing of the lines" the pressure on the compressor should NOT exceed 25#. I drain the water heater first and then put the plug back in and close off the relief flapper. Than open up the hot water access and close off the bypass to the water heater so that no air goes into the water heater. Hook the air hose to the city water inlet. Let the line get to pressure and start working form one fixture hot and cold until you get to the fixture closest to the low point drains. Mine are back of rig under the tub. Don't forget the toilet. Let the pressure build up as you move from each hot and cold fixture. This takes about 15minutes. Finally close all fixtures and open each low point. You will know tha it is drained when you can go back to the first fixture and open it. It should be free of water. I will also turn the pump on for a few seconds while under pressure to free this of water as well. Disconnect the air and turn your bypass back to the the original position. Crack the drain on the water heater one more time and you are done. Also you can pick up a quick connect fitting for the air hose from Homedepot at will screw right into the city water. If you have any questions you can message me and I can walk you through it or snap some pics.
good look.
Thank you so much for the info, that's extremely helpful!! I will definitely drop you a line with follow up questions after we pick her up this Friday.

Thanks again!

John
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Old 09-11-2014, 02:35 PM   #14
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We camp year round too here in the Carolinas. We live on the line between the Sandhills and the Coastal Plains. It does drop below freezing here and teens aren't unheard off.

During the winter months, we will do one of two things. If it is going to be a hard freeze we will "dry" camp. No water in the tanks or lines, carry water for drinking, use the campground bathhouse. If it is going to be a light freeze (above 28°F) we will put water in, but as soon as we get home blow the lines and pour a bit of RV anti freeze into the sink, toilet and shower trap. We typically only get out once a month (if we are lucky) in the winter. Summer we do a bit better.

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Old 09-12-2014, 12:36 AM   #15
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We camp year round too here in the Carolinas. We live on the line between the Sandhills and the Coastal Plains. It does drop below freezing here and teens aren't unheard off.

During the winter months, we will do one of two things. If it is going to be a hard freeze we will "dry" camp. No water in the tanks or lines, carry water for drinking, use the campground bathhouse. If it is going to be a light freeze (above 28°F) we will put water in, but as soon as we get home blow the lines and pour a bit of RV anti freeze into the sink, toilet and shower trap. We typically only get out once a month (if we are lucky) in the winter. Summer we do a bit better.

Aaron
Thanks Aaron! I does not get that cold here thank goodness! I think we're going to plan on blowing out the lines and pour a bit of the anti-freeze in the drains. I am thinking with the limited number of freezing days we get, that should do the trick!

Thanks again!

john
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Old 09-12-2014, 01:08 AM   #16
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Thanks Aaron! I does not get that cold here thank goodness! I think we're going to plan on blowing out the lines and pour a bit of the anti-freeze in the drains. I am thinking with the limited number of freezing days we get, that should do the trick!

Thanks again!

john
One caveat... If you have an outside shower, make sure to disconect the shower head and drain it. I have cracked more than one because I forgot about it.

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Old 09-12-2014, 01:14 AM   #17
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Thanks Aaron! I does not get that cold here thank goodness! I think we're going to plan on blowing out the lines and pour a bit of the anti-freeze in the drains. I am thinking with the limited number of freezing days we get, that should do the trick!

Thanks again!

john
Blowing the lines has worked for me, forever. The last fifteen years we have lived on top of a mountain. A good winter for us is -15/20F, from mid November to early February. Throw in a dozen or so days that get to -30/35F. The only time I ever had a problem was the year I didn't dump the tanks before we got home.
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Old 09-12-2014, 02:18 AM   #18
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One caveat... If you have an outside shower, make sure to disconect the shower head and drain it. I have cracked more than one because I forgot about it.

Aaron
I think we do.. We're going to pick it up tomorrow. Needless to say, we're pretty excited to get out there, it's are first TT!

Thx!
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Old 09-12-2014, 02:21 AM   #19
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Blowing the lines has worked for me, forever. The last fifteen years we have lived on top of a mountain. A good winter for us is -15/20F, from mid November to early February. Throw in a dozen or so days that get to -30/35F. The only time I ever had a problem was the year I didn't dump the tanks before we got home.
Thanks for the feedback! Do you just blow the lines out or do you also dump some RV anti-freeze down the drains as well? Blowing the lines out seems to be the most important but it sounds like not everyone uses the anti-freeze.

Thanks again!
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Old 09-12-2014, 08:55 PM   #20
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Thanks for the feedback! Do you just blow the lines out or do you also dump some RV anti-freeze down the drains as well? Blowing the lines out seems to be the most important but it sounds like not everyone uses the anti-freeze.

Thanks again!
Absolutely dump some antifreeze in to the traps.

The previous owner of my old Airstream didn't dump AF down the drains, that left my with the fun job of replacing the P trap in the kitchen. The fun part was trying to find parts that would work, they had an oddball size for the traps. I learned real fast from his screw up use antifreeze.

I have never purposely dumped enough antifreeze by volume to cover the dump valve, I think I'll start doing that.
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