No water (newbie)

[Jim Jefferis]

Hi all. I recently purchased a 2005 Dutchmen travel trailer (26BH), and I'm getting it up and running for the first time. I can't get the water to work at all. I hooked up to the city water intake and also filled the fresh water tank, but nothing seems to be coming into the trailer. I looked for a shutoff valve in every place I could think of, but can't find anything. Since this is my first trailer, I'm thinking that I might be missing something simple. Any suggestions?

[calewjohnson]

Is there a bypass for winterizing? When trying to run from a pump, is it energized? Can you see the back of the panel where the hose is screwed into, maybe something has crimped the hose...or just follow the lines....

Cale

[MartyG]

Originally Posted by Jim Jefferis

Hi all. I recently purchased a 2005 Dutchmen travel trailer (26BH), and I'm getting it up and running for the first time. I can't get the water to work at all. I hooked up to the city water intake and also filled the fresh water tank, but nothing seems to be coming into the trailer. I looked for a shutoff valve in every place I could think of, but can't find anything. Since this is my first trailer, I'm thinking that I might be missing something simple. Any suggestions?

There are probably two water inputs. One for a hose, from city water pressure. The other an open cap to fill the fresh water tank. The output of the fresh water tank goes to the pump, and then through a backflow preventer. At this point the output of the backflow preventer and the city water input meet, and feed the trailer demand system, i.e. a cold water line that goes to every water outlet, and also to the input of the hot water heater. There, hot water originates, and goes to each outlet except for the toilet.
So you have two ways of testing the system. If you have water in your tank, and the pump will run (you'll hear it if power is applied and a faucet is open), then the pump should supply water to the faucet.
If you have city water pressure applied properly through a hose, the fresh water tank and pump are not in use. The city water pressure is applied straight to your cold water system.
Since it is ten years old, and you just bought it, let's assume we don't know how long it's been since water flowed through the system. Keep opening and cleaning aerators and valves and then reapplying pressure until you get some water flowing someplace. Sounds like things have just gotten "crusty" all over. Start at the city water intake, and go from there. Don't worry about fresh water tank and pump until you get it going on the city pressure. That's the easiest and surest test. Don't get bogged down in pump troubleshooting until you know your cold water system works first.

[Jim Jefferis]

Originally Posted by calewjohnson

Is there a bypass for winterizing? When trying to run from a pump, is it energized? Can you see the back of the panel where the hose is screwed into, maybe something has crimped the hose...or just follow the lines....

Cale

I'm not sure where I would look for a bypass for winterizing, but the trailer was winterized, so I suppose that's possible. When I turn on the pump the only thing I hear is a soft electrical buzz coming from the area of the water heater. I can see the inside of where the city water comes in (under the sink). It hits a T with one line going to the sink cold water and the other going somewhere else.

[Jim Jefferis]

Originally Posted by MartyG

There are probably two water inputs. One for a hose, from city water pressure. The other an open cap to fill the fresh water tank. The output of the fresh water tank goes to the pump, and then through a backflow preventer. At this point the output of the backflow preventer and the city water input meet, and feed the trailer demand system, i.e. a cold water line that goes to every water outlet, and also to the input of the hot water heater. There, hot water originates, and goes to each outlet except for the toilet.
So you have two ways of testing the system. If you have water in your tank, and the pump will run (you'll hear it if power is applied and a faucet is open), then the pump should supply water to the faucet.
If you have city water pressure applied properly through a hose, the fresh water tank and pump are not in use. The city water pressure is applied straight to your cold water system.
Since it is ten years old, and you just bought it, let's assume we don't know how long it's been since water flowed through the system. Keep opening and cleaning aerators and valves and then reapplying pressure until you get some water flowing someplace. Sounds like things have just gotten "crusty" all over. Start at the city water intake, and go from there. Don't worry about fresh water tank and pump until you get it going on the city pressure. That's the easiest and surest test. Don't get bogged down in pump troubleshooting until you know your cold water system works first.

Thanks. I'll check and clean the aerators and see if that makes a difference.

[MartyG]

Originally Posted by Jim Jefferis

I'm not sure where I would look for a bypass for winterizing, but the trailer was winterized, so I suppose that's possible. When I turn on the pump the only thing I hear is a soft electrical buzz coming from the area of the water heater. I can see the inside of where the city water comes in (under the sink). It hits a T with one line going to the sink cold water and the other going somewhere else.

That "somewhere else" is where the cold water meets the output of the pump, and continues to feed other cold water line outputs. But stop right there for now. Since you can see the city water line input, and its direct connection to the cold water faucet connection, work to get that much going before you continue.

Then, AFTER you're done with that, get back with us on this "soft electrical buzz" If you mean a "hum" like a fluorescent light might do, then your pump motor is not turning, it is stuck. Probably "crusty." You'll want to free that up, and get it loosened up before applying power to it, otherwise you might burn up the pump motor. If, however, you mean a "whirr" or the sound of something running or pumping, i.e. physical movement, then that is normal, the pump is trying to pump but isn't getting water. Continue to troubleshoot your water lines, this time from the tank to the pump

All in all, it sounds like your whole water system was allowed to dry up. Don't worry, you can bring it all back to life with some work, but little expense.

[Jim Jefferis]

So I hooked up City water, took off the aerators and was able to hear gurgling sounds when turning on the hot water in the kitchen and bathroom sinks. A few drops of water came out, but nothing more. Still no response in turning on the cold water anywhere. I tried removing the water pressure regulator from the hose and that got a few more gurgles.

[Jim Jefferis]

Originally Posted by MartyG

Since you can see the city water line input, and its direct connection to the cold water faucet connection, work to get that much going before you continue.

So how do I work to get that going? I can see the line, but there is no valve or anything else to move. Is it a blockage that I should be trying to snake?

Then, AFTER you're done with that, get back with us on this "soft electrical buzz" If you mean a "hum" like a fluorescent light might do, then your pump motor is not turning, it is stuck. Probably "crusty."

The buzz can be heard near the hot water tank. I first noticed it when I took off the access panel on the outside of that tank. I think it is more a hum that a whirring sound.

Now here is where my ignorance really begins to show. Where is the water pump likely to be? I thought I identified it under the kitchen sink directly about the fresh water tank, but the hum is from the hot water tank, which is several feet away under the bed. I don't hear anything from the unit under the sink.

[MartyG]

Double-check. The city water is good, i.e. water comes through the hose when you turn it on, before it is screwed into the trailer, right? While the hose is unscrewed from the trailer, look at the screen at the connection. If it is clogged, or "crunched," pry it out and replace it with a regular garden hose washer. Then reconnect the hose and turn on pressure at the city valve. Now what do you have inside?

[MartyG]

If you hear an electrical buzz from the hot water tank, cut off power to it. It may be operating and trying to warm up the water electrically. Don't let it even try until you get water going, or else you might be trying to heat up a dry tank. Cut off both propane and electrical to the hot water heater.
For now, just focus on the city water getting from the supply hose, inside the trailer, and to the cold water tap in the sink.
Find the pump. It's usually next to the fresh water tank, if the water tank is inside, say under a couch cushion. Otherwise, if the fresh water tank is below the floor, (you can guess where based on both the fill cap and the under-the-belly tank drain valve or capped line) then the pump would be above it. Look for a compartment that is usually closed only by 4 wood screws. Not an access door, but not hard at all to open up.

[MartyG]

The under-sink location is likely. The water pump looks like a motor at one side, and a pump unit at the end of the motor shaft, with two hoses (one in, and one out) at the other end. The motor side will have a double wire ( + and -) going to it. You may see other lines, tees, valves, etc, depending on configuration.

[Jim Jefferis]

Originally Posted by MartyG

If you hear an electrical buzz from the hot water tank, cut off power to it. It may be operating and trying to warm up the water electrically. Don't let it even try until you get water going, or else you might be trying to heat up a dry tank. Cut off both propane and electrical to the hot water heater.
For now, just focus on the city water getting from the supply hose, inside the trailer, and to the cold water tap in the sink.
Find the pump. It's usually next to the fresh water tank, if the water tank is inside, say under a couch cushion. Otherwise, if the fresh water tank is below the floor, (you can guess where based on both the fill cap and the under-the-belly tank drain valve or capped line) then the pump would be above it. Look for a compartment that is usually closed only by 4 wood screws. Not an access door, but not hard at all to open up.

I confirmed that the Shurflo water pump is under the sink. The switch that I thought was for the water pump is turning on the water heater. I hear the click of the lighter and the flow of propane. Won't use that again until I have water.

The water flows freely from the hose itself, but still isn't getting into the trailer. There is a plastic regulator of some type with a spring at the city water intake. I tried to pull it out, but the back end is larger than the hole. Some water got past it and it moves freely.

[sundancer 87]

Originally Posted by Jim Jefferis

I confirmed that the Shurflo water pump is under the sink. The switch that I thought was for the water pump is turning on the water heater. I hear the click of the lighter and the flow of propane. Won't use that again until I have water.

The water flows freely from the hose itself, but still isn't getting into the trailer. There is a plastic regulator of some type with a spring at the city water intake. I tried to pull it out, but the back end is larger than the hole. Some water got past it and it moves freely.

Can you shoot us a photo of thing with a spring?

[MartyG]

Originally Posted by Jim Jefferis

I confirmed that the Shurflo water pump is under the sink. The switch that I thought was for the water pump is turning on the water heater. I hear the click of the lighter and the flow of propane. Won't use that again until I have water.

The water flows freely from the hose itself, but still isn't getting into the trailer. There is a plastic regulator of some type with a spring at the city water intake. I tried to pull it out, but the back end is larger than the hole. Some water got past it and it moves freely.

Good thing on the pump find, and the switch operation. That "regulator" of some kind sounds like another backflow preventer, at the city water inlet. It is designed to keep your pressurized system (from running the pump) from feeding water back into the city system. It is a one-way valve, spring-loaded to allow city water in, but no water out. It sounds stuck. I don't know its exact configuration. You might be able to poke into it with a plastic straw (like from a WD40 bottle) or something. You might have to remove it. Focus your efforts on this thing.

[Jim Jefferis]

Originally Posted by MartyG

Good thing on the pump find, and the switch operation. That "regulator" of some kind sounds like another backflow preventer, at the city water inlet. It is designed to keep your pressurized system (from running the pump) from feeding water back into the city system. It is a one-way valve, spring-loaded to allow city water in, but no water out. It sounds stuck. I don't know its exact configuration. You might be able to poke into it with a plastic straw (like from a WD40 bottle) or something. You might have to remove it. Focus your efforts on this thing.

That's just how it functions. When I push on it, water comes out, but left alone it blocks the water from flowing back into the hose. The piece moves freely, so I don't think it's stuck.

[Jim Jefferis]

Originally Posted by sundancer 87

Can you shoot us a photo of thing with a spring?

Here is a photo

[MartyG]

So you can push the little center stick, and water comes out. Where did that water come from? Is it fresh city water? Sounds like if you can push the valve open, then the city water pressure was also able to get past it. I believe that's where the water came from. So ok, now we believe you have city water pressure inside the trailer when the hose is hooked up, and the city water valve is on. So now, with the system under pressure, go to unscrewable cold water fittings, say under the sink, or at the toilet, and SLOWLY start to unscrew things. Look for water to come out. Preceded, perhaps by escaping air. Have somebody ready to turn off the hose in case something comes loose. Using this method, you can find where water is and where it isn't.

[wildwest450]

That stopper need to come out, it's in there to keep the antifreeze in after winterizing. I had the same problem on my last rig, the people took it to get winterized and that stopper was left in by the dealer who winterized it.

It took a few phone calls to the guy I bought it from on our first trip, but we figured it out.

I'd bet money it's gonna look like this, I lost the spring...

[Jim Jefferis]

Originally Posted by dawniewest

That stopper need to come out, it's in there to keep the antifreeze in after winterizing. I had the same problem on my last rig, the people took it to get winterized and that stopper was left in by the dealer who winterized it.

It took a few phone calls to the guy I bought it from on our first trip, but we figured it out.

I'd bet money it's gonna look like this, I lost the spring...

That's definitely what it is, but it won't come out thought the intake--too big. Do I need to get it out from the inside?

[Jim Jefferis]

Originally Posted by MartyG

So you can push the little center stick, and water comes out. Where did that water come from? Is it fresh city water? Sounds like if you can push the valve open, then the city water pressure was also able to get past it. I believe that's where the water came from. So ok, now we believe you have city water pressure inside the trailer when the hose is hooked up, and the city water valve is on. So now, with the system under pressure, go to unscrewable cold water fittings, say under the sink, or at the toilet, and SLOWLY start to unscrew things. Look for water to come out. Preceded, perhaps by escaping air. Have somebody ready to turn off the hose in case something comes loose. Using this method, you can find where water is and where it isn't.

Makes sense to me. I'll try that tomorrow after work. Thanks for all of the advice.