Upgrading the electrical on my 2017 Aspen Trail 2750BHS.

[Wayfaring Gent]

Hello, my name is Robert. My wife and I just purchased a 2017 Dutchmen Aspen Trail 2750BHS for full-time living. I am posting a fuller introduction an another thread.



We need to increase the electrical system pretty quickly as my wife works from home, and I do as well, most of the time.

The first year we will be stationary at an RV park hooked up 30. I am still learning and navigating my way through the electrical system.

My question is, what would be the most important first steps to take to increase the power? Should I upgrade the batteries? For that, I am looking at a Battle Born system. Another option that I am considering is buying this for my wife to run her computer station:

https://www.bluetti.com/products/blutti-1500wh-portable-power-station

This one would be nice, but it doesn't hit Kickstarter until March. There is no telling what the turnaround time will be, and we need to figure this out soon.

https://www.bluetti.com/pages/ep500-p

I would appreciate any feedback or help. It is a lot to take in all at once.



I look forward to joining the community!

[franktafl]

First off, welcome! Secondly, are you talking about boondocking or you just think 30 am-s is not enough to power your electronics?

[dsol]

Like Frank said what specifically are you looking to upgrade. All the 12v stuff you mention won’t add any real usable AC power. If you need amperage then about the only option would be to convert to 50 amps and run more circuits in your rig.

Looks like the stuff you linked too is for off grid stuff. But if you have adequate batteries and an inverter you could run many low amperage equipment. Obviously, for computing you need a lap top as a desktop will suck too much power. You can run a pretty big TV as long as it is LED off of a pretty small inverter. I use a 150 watt inverter plugged into the dc outlet directly under the TV to watch over the air TV all the time and it works great.

Things that create heat like hair dryers and space heaters are a much bigger challenge. You might get a few minutes with a really powerful inverter but you will also need lots of battery capacity too.

A small 2000 watt portable generator like a Honda or Yamaha will power your entire rig other than Air conditioner.

Personally, I would stay away from Kickstarter as those things are almost always delayed and rarely work as promised. KS is turning into a scammers paradise and you have no recourse when they screw up and or don’t deliver.

[dsol]

By the way, I am sure you know but most power pedestals have 15 amp outlets too that are great for a heavy duty extension cord you can run through a window or vent somewhere.

[Wayfaring Gent]

Originally Posted by franktafl

First off, welcome! Secondly, are you talking about boondocking or you just think 30 am-s is not enough to power your electronics?

Thank you for the welcome!



As I am pretty new to this community (haven't moved in yet), I am learning as I go. To be honest, I am not sure if 30 amps is enough. My wife and I live a relatively minimal lifestyle comparatively.



My main concern is my wife's computer setup. She runs a laptop with two monitors and a lamp during the day. She charges her phone once a day.



I also run a laptop with a monitor when I work from home. It is easier for me to work without a monitor and just run my laptop.



We watch television on occasion. It is not a daily affair. I also need to recharge batteries, and a power bank on occasion.




We do intend to travel after living in a park for a year. My wife is pregnant with our first child, so we can't travel much this year.

[Wayfaring Gent]

Originally Posted by dsol

By the way, I am sure you know but most power pedestals have 15 amp outlets too that are great for a heavy duty extension cord you can run through a window or vent somewhere.

I did not know that. Thanks for that information. It is helpful.

[franktafl]

You can also buy a dog bone and plug your 30,amp main into the 50 amp outlet on the ped in addition to using the 30 amp plugs and the 15 amp stuff. There is more than enough power for everything you want to run. If you are boonedocking, you will need to get a generator and maybe some solar. The number or circuits you gave in the RV can be a little squirrelly sometimes. I have my home computer, two monitors, a scanner and a laptop while we are staying in the RV for the time being. I monopolize the dinner table.

[dsol]

If your monitors are LED, which unless they are really old I am pretty sure they are then you will be fine with an inverter as they will draw very little power.

Also, some monitors actually run on 12v natively and use a converter to convert the AC to a dc plug similar to a laptop. If you have monitors like that you might be able to avoid AC altogether with an adapter coming from your batteries, but even if you use an inverter the power required will be minimal.

[persistent]

30 amps 120 volts is plenty for what you have proposed for use in a campground or RV park that has shore power.

The things that use a lot of power are heating and cooling devices.
Air Conditioner
Electric Heater
Microwave
Electric water heater
Residential compressor refrigerator.
Electric coffee pot
Electric toaster
Hair drier
Things like that.

Laptops, cell phones, LED TV's use very little.

A 30 amp shore power system provides 3600 watts. Add up the wattage of things you want to run at the same time. Compare to the 3600 watts that are available.
A 15 amp shore power system provides 1800 watts.

As posted above upgrading to a 50 amp 240 volt system is a major undertaking. It would supply 12000 watts.

[persistent]

Dry camping and boondocking with the things you have mentioned require a substantial battery bank and sources of power. For short periods of a few days, batteries may be enough. For long periods, a generator and/or solar power will be required. Recharge by connecting to shore power after a few days.

Most heating and cooling devices need huge battery banks and a generator or a serious solar system. Use propane where possible. The things you mention are doable with a moderate battery bank and propane.

• Lights in your rig are 12 volt. LED 12 volt lights use very little power. Incandescent lights use 5 to 10 times as much power. Use an LED lamp. Convert incandescent to LED.
• A powerful laptop, modem, router, monitor may use 300 watts.
• Water pump draws significant power, but does not run very long.
• Propane water and refrigerator use a little 12 volts for controls.
• Propane furnace uses significant power for fan and controls. It depends on how much it runs.
• TV and radio use very little power like the computer.

200 amp hours of batteries will run all of this for three to five days. When you start to add cooking appliances you will need a big inverter.

A 200 amp hour AGM battery bank will run a 1000 watt inverter. Enough for computers and things. Not enough for microwave, coffee pot, or air conditioning.

A 400 amp hour battery bank will run a 2000 watt inverter. Enough for short periods running microwave or hair dryer, but not enough for all day air conditioner. Manage how many high current devices are used at the same time.

3600 watt inverter is the biggest your 30 amp 120 volt service can use. A 800 amp battery bank would be good. Possibly think about lithium phosphate batteries like Battle Born batteries and a new converter/charger.

Battery charging can be done with a small portable generator. A 2000 watt generator is enough to charge batteries and run the things a 2000 watt inverter will run. It could fast charge a 600 amp battery bank using a 100 amp battery charger and still run computers.

A 3000 watt generator would run air conditioner and other heating devices, but not all at once. Again be cautious of what high current devices run at the same time.

3600 watts is the biggest generator that is useful with a 30 amp 120 volt system. Bigger would not provide more than 3600 watts through your 30 amp 120 volt AC system.

List all the appliances you want to use. Add watts used by each. Add how long it must run each day. Multiply hours of running by watts required. That is the amount of electricity your systems must produce each day.

Mark what appliances you want to use at the same time. Add up the wattage to be used at the same time. That is the wattage your systems need to support at any one moment.

There is much to learn. Get some experience figuring these things out. Learn one piece at a time.

I wish you good luck and happy trails ahead!

[1l243]

It sounds like you talking about being plugged into the 110 power at the pedestal and not dry camping where you would be running off just the batteries.

If you just need additional outlets I would get a power strip with multiple outlets made for sensitive electronics. Your 30 amp system can easily handle all those electronic devices you and your wife use for work.

Since you are running so much sensitive electronic devices, I would also consider getting a 30 amp surge protector for when you plug into the Power Pedestal

[capeharj]

You still haven't said if you intend to boondock or stay in RV Parks. I have run 30 amps for years and never a problem. You have to be carefull when running things like coffee pots, toasters, hair dryers or any high wattage appliances at the same time. Normally you only have 2 110 volt circuits in a RV so you will blow a breaker if not carefull. Electronics are very low wattage/amperage units and shouldn't be an issue. The only issue may be internet connection and you haven't said how you will connect.

[Wayfaring Gent]

Thanks for replying. Sorry for the delay. We just finished up the buying process for our rig.


This year, we will be at an RV park. We hope to hit the road next year.



The first year will allow us to work out the kinks, make the upgrades, and welcome our little one into the world.



As far as internet, we are going with a bundle from MobileMustHave. Most likely this one: https://www.mobilemusthave.com/Ultim...ing_p_168.html

[kimbo@alum.mit.edu]

You'll do fine with 30 amps as long as you don't try run to many loads at once. Your more likely to have problems with the campsite power pedestal and their wiring. You'll want enough battery energy at a power rate to make it through the night when you can't run a generator or rely on solar. You need to learn how estimate power usage for sizing you battery and generator for boondocking. No Computer, TV, AC, Hairdryer, Micro, Washer/dryer and fridge all running at.the same time. The AC is the biggest and longest running load. Even the compressor turns off and on.

[kjlarson]

When you attempt to upgrade the wiring you need to find Keystones standard wiring color coding document. Here is a link to it.

[kimbo@alum.mit.edu]

Just what do you think that Bluetti thing is going to do for him? 120 volts at 30 amps is 3600 watts. That Bluetti thing that has an advertised 5100 watthout capacity with only a 2000 watts load capacity. At full load it can last about 2 and a half hours. Standard romex is color code Black hot and White neutral with green or bare as ground. The number 10 AWG SJ cable to the pedestal is going to be color coded the same way. If he can't figure out which is positive and negative at the battery then he should be doing anything but getting the dealer to do whatever he wants.

[kimbo@alum.mit.edu]

A fancy double cell service router with load balancing won't make up for poor cell service found in rural areas. The only real solution is a high gain multiband directional antenna of the log periodic type for the cell service data router. Since cell service is both transmitting and receiving any kind of real high gain set up would be regulated by the FCC and the cell companies. That's why anything you do here would be in a gray legal area. Also even the best antenna can not make up for a no signal area.