GEN/CONV Breaker and an Inverter

[1l243]

Originally Posted by UTNative

Helpful info - thanks! I’ve actually looked at that HF box a couple of times already. Something lockable to replace the plastic battery boxes.

And to be honest, me drilling that many screws into my roof membrane is THE primary reason I am starting with a DIY 200W suitcase. Far too much chance of operator error on my part having never done that before. Although I have had a few long-time campers tell me that there is no such think as too much Dicor!

Once I looked at the cost of the Lifepo4 batteries ($550 to $1000) per battery! i stopped reading about them. But, I'm thinking 100ah is not much no matter which one you choose. There is no substitute for amp hours.

You could weigh your tongue weight with the batteries you now have then add and additional 100 lbs and see if it's within 10 to 15% of your gross trailer weight. Then you would know if you can add extra batteries on the A frame.

Four 6 volt flooded golf cart batteries from Costco will cost just under $400 for all four. You will end up with about 440ah.

Everyone that installs a hard panel on their roof has to drill holes. You just take your time and do a good job sealing things up.

Factoid
Their are 18 holes in one little roof vent!!!

[ewarnerusa]

Originally Posted by 1l243

Once I looked at the cost of the Lifepo4 batteries ($550 to $1000) per battery! i stopped reading about them. But, I'm thinking 100ah is not much no matter which one you choose. There is no substitute for amp hours. ...

Same here! My current 2x6V GC batteries are only a couple seasons old and I expect at least another 3 out of them. But my wiring is showing some environmental wear and I'll probably need to address that soon. I too thought maybe I should replace with Li battery, move the battery to inside the passthrough storage which eliminates most of the outside wiring exposure & moves the batteries even closer to my inverter for improved efficiency and performance when rewired, and I carry less weight. Then I saw the price tag for the Li battery...

[1l243]

Originally Posted by UTNative

That is interesting - While not the case, I find myself always thinking about the cost of 2 Li batteries. You do 6Vs in pairs, my current cheap but new batteries are in a pair given their poor performance and the 50% max discharge. But as you note, that really isn’t the case. The Li batteries are still quite expensive but if you get the same or perhaps more out one 12V/100AH LifePo4 while cutting down weight significantly - perhaps it’s the better start for a small system.

I understand though that they are more temperature sensitive and the tongue would not be the place to put them. And that you can’t or shouldn’t add another one later (they should be in pairs - purchased at the same time in order to balance.)?

If I ever went the Li route, I’ve thought of mounting a battery box in the pass through near where the Solar Panel will be or even running the cables to under the front bed storage just behind the pass through. Place a battery box in the corner of that space. I am curious what others experience has been with Li batteries.

I stumbled across this CL ad where the guy has a awesome Solar install. I don't know the guy or anything but thought the pictures and setup were on point to our discussion.

The guy put all the solar hardware and sealed batteries under the bed. Seems like a decent idea as long you don't mind listening to the inverter fan should it pop on.

https://bend.craigslist.org/rvs/d/be...288763563.html

Not if you look at the pictures can anyone tell me what the thing is under the toilet?

[1l243]

Originally Posted by 1l243

I stumbled across this CL ad where the guy has a awesome Solar install. I don't know the guy or anything but thought the pictures and setup were on point to our discussion.

The guy put all the solar hardware and sealed batteries under the bed. Seems like a decent idea as long you don't mind listening to the inverter fan should it pop on.

https://bend.craigslist.org/rvs/d/be...288763563.html

Not if you look at the pictures can anyone tell me what the thing is under the toilet?

I figured it out. The guy replaced the RV toilet with a composting toilet! Boy that guy is one Boondocking Dude!

[leisuresolar@gmail.com]

I have been using Battle Born Lithium batteries for more than 5 years. I actually became a dealer 5 years ago. I've installed more than 200 Battle Born batteries, and have never had one warranty claim. Good quality LiFePO4 batteries are a total game changer for off grid RVs.

I have also replaced several installs where the owner bought cheap Chinese Li batteries that failed. The vendor had disappeared, as did their warranty.

The NUMBER ONE thing I recommend for every RV is a high quality battery monitor. Most of the junk sold on Amazon is junk, but here are good ones
1) My favorite Thornwave Labs Bluetooth battery monitor
2) My second favorite Victron Smart Shunt
3) Everyone used this one for years, but it is a bit dated now Bogart Engineering.

[UTNative]

Originally Posted by kjlarson

As to solar panels; yes, you can buy a bunch of 100 watters but you need a lot to do most jobs and roof space is a determining factor in how many can be installed. I chose REC 330 watt panels because of their advanced technology, three provide 990 watts... Now some details. The panels are wired in series to increase the amperage. I ran 8 AWG wire from the panels to the charge controller; by-the-way you must install a disconnect between the panels and the charge controller to meet the requirements of the National Electrical Code which is required for trailers believe it or not. Get out there and have fun. Maybe will run into each other somewhere on "trail".

Even though I am starting with that DIY 200W Solar Suitcase, I find myself planning for a more permanent solution. The idea of having just a couple of larger watt panels on the roof is appealing. The solar panel board is also getting more complicated with future components, at least on paper.

You mentioned that you wired your panels in series to increase amperage. Doesn’t series increase voltage not amps? Which leads to a question. I am installing a Rover 40A MPPT. It’s about as future proof as the budget allows for now. What does the MPPT controller do with the extra volts? It’s kind of a dumb question but I assume it converts the additional voltage to maximize power going to the batteries. That it’s just the math (AxV=W) and that is why they are so much more efficient. That PWMs can’t do that because they can’t handle the extra volts. Is that accurate?

The first trip is Easter weekend and we are looking forward to it! Yes, see you on the “trail” sometime!

[UTNative]

Originally Posted by 1l243

I figured it out. The guy replaced the RV toilet with a composting toilet! Boy that guy is one Boondocking Dude!

Holy...., $18K Electrical system?! That’s quite a bit more than my whole TT is worth! Perhaps I am just naive of what full systems run. It is an amazing system - I’ll grant him that. He did take full use of the under bed storage in the bedroom. That would be loud as you noted. At most I could see putting the battery box in there with the components on the opposite side of the front wall to the storage in the pass through.

Add the toilet and who knows how often he had to go into town. I do wonder who is going to buy his 2016 Timber Ridge for $45K.

[UTNative]

[QUOTE=leisuresolar@gmail.com;77272] 1) My favorite Thornwave Labs Bluetooth battery monitor/QUOTE]

I hadn’t heard of this one. The idea of bluetooth monitoring is appealing.

[EMCD]

Ok,
So I'm upgrading my old 2013 KZ Sportsman 18RBT with all it's quirks and considering an Aspen Trail or perhaps a new Grey Wolf.

Here's a possible.

https://www.mcgeorgerv.com/rvdetails...30k-MCG1918991

I've got the dealer over a barrel which I won't go into. Part of the offer is Solar since it's "Ready" . What can I expect and should I ?

-EMCD

[persistent]

Originally Posted by EMCD

Ok,
So I'm upgrading my old 2013 KZ Sportsman 18RBT with all it's quirks and considering an Aspen Trail or perhaps a new Grey Wolf.

Here's a possible.

https://www.mcgeorgerv.com/rvdetails...30k-MCG1918991

I've got the dealer over a barrel which I won't go into. Part of the offer is Solar since it's "Ready" . What can I expect and should I ?
-EMCD

"Solar Ready" is a deflection technique to sell travel trailers. Would it sound as good to say it has a wire from a connector on the outside to a place on the inside?

One trailer I saw had two wires. One from the roof into the front pass through and the other from the front pass through to a connector on the side. There was also a wire from the pass through to the battery.

Usually, no electronics are included. All the expensive electricals, electronics, and some knowledge about how RV solar systems work are required to install a system.

In other words, there is nothing "solar" in a "solar ready" travel trailer.

I wish you good luck and happy trails ahead!

[sundancer 87]

Originally Posted by persistent

"Solar Ready" is a deflection technique to sell travel trailers. Would it sound as good to say it has a wire from a connector on the outside to a place on the inside?

One trailer I saw had two wires. One from the roof into the front pass through and the other from the front pass through to a connector on the side. There was also a wire from the pass through to the battery.

Usually, no electronics are included. All the expensive electricals, electronics, and some knowledge about how RV solar systems work are required to install a system.

In other words, there is nothing "solar" in a "solar ready" travel trailer.

I wish you good luck and happy trails ahead!

With all that being said I will come to the aid of the solar ready RV. It is ready for solar gain no question about it. As long as the roof is where it belongs it's solar ready.