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Old 05-05-2015, 06:48 PM   #1
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TT lift kit

My Dutchmen 275BH sits a lot lower than other models I see on the road. The plumbing is especially low and worrisome. It doesn't look like saggy springs, it just looks like it was designed that way. My concerns mostly have to do with backing into my driveway to either work on or get the trailer ready for a trip. Two inches of additional clearence would be worth a lot for piece of mind. Has anyone seen, or heard of, anyone who has lifted their TT by 2" or so? Speculative comments are welcome too.
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Old 05-05-2015, 06:55 PM   #2
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Most people just flip the leaf springs over or put the axles below the springs and it gives you way more clearance. Its very common and has helped me in the past. Some dealers or most trailer dealers can do it for you pretty cheap.
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Old 05-05-2015, 07:05 PM   #3
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As my son has a 4x4 his 5th wheel also was low in the rear. He bought a lift kit from Trailer Parts for Wheels, Lights, Suspension, Couplers, Jacks, Wiring and Cargo Control - etrailer.com. We installed it in a couple of hours. His axles are now below the springs & it rides level & no more dragging the rear. I've bought other items from etrailer & they are good folks to work with.
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Old 05-05-2015, 10:52 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvining View Post
Most people just flip the leaf springs over or put the axles below the springs and it gives you way more clearance. Its very common and has helped me in the past. Some dealers or most trailer dealers can do it for you pretty cheap.
This^^. I had the dealer flip the axles on our TT first thing, it cost around $400. It raised the TT about 4". For folks with welders and the other proper tools who know what they're doing, I think it is under $100 in parts and an afternoon worth of time. The axles aren't actually flipped, they are just relocated to beneath the springs in stead of above them.


http://www.doityourselfrv.com/axle-f...r-boondocking/
I make no claim to the accuracy of the info in that link, I just googled it and thought it described the process well.

We pack a short foot stool to serve as the bottom step to the TT door because after the lift there is quite a bit of distance between the bottom stair and the ground.
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Old 05-06-2015, 02:44 PM   #5
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You don't need to do any welding to do this job. Jack, Jack stands & air impact is all that is needed. You can do it with out the air impact but will take quite a bit longer.
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Old 05-06-2015, 08:07 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
You don't need to do any welding to do this job. Jack, Jack stands & air impact is all that is needed. You can do it with out the air impact but will take quite a bit longer.
Do you know what lift kit your son installed. I called etrailer and the person on the phone didn't know what I was talking about. If you can find the item on their website and post the link that would make it even easier when I call them again.
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Old 05-06-2015, 08:30 PM   #7
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Check this page & measure the size of springs you have.
leaf springs - etrailer.com Search
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Old 05-06-2015, 08:47 PM   #8
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Be careful ,flipping springs will raise your trailer 3 inches a lot of trailers are at 13,4 already watch your fuel stations and low bridges
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Old 05-06-2015, 09:12 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by mx370001 View Post
Be careful ,flipping springs will raise your trailer 3 inches a lot of trailers are at 13,4 already watch your fuel stations and low bridges
He has a travel trailer so wouldn't be a problem at all. Most TT aren't even 12' tall.
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Old 05-08-2015, 03:53 PM   #10
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A product called Correct Track will give you your 2" of lift and the ability to straighten the axles to each other. I did it on my 5th wheel to get it to sit more level behind my truck and it was fairly easy to do in my driveway, the worst part was drilling the holes. It basically extends the mounts on the frame.
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Old 05-08-2015, 06:05 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by hilbilydavid View Post
A product called Correct Track will give you your 2" of lift and the ability to straighten the axles to each other. I did it on my 5th wheel to get it to sit more level behind my truck and it was fairly easy to do in my driveway, the worst part was drilling the holes. It basically extends the mounts on the frame.
I'll check it out. Thanks
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Old 05-08-2015, 06:40 PM   #12
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Without spending any time reading (sorry busy), I just want to say there SHOULD be more that goes in to lifting a towable than just flipping the axles. Cross members should be added for stability. PLEASE get lots of advice and do a lot of research before doing this kind of work. i had the axles flipped on my last fifth wheel professionally. They did it for me cheap and I was happy... that was until a blowout on my center axle sheered the hangar on my rear axle, knocking it right off. I was lucky in that the axle wedged itself between the frame and a grey tank. But it was costly nonetheless.
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Old 05-08-2015, 07:42 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by KeithE View Post
Without spending any time reading (sorry busy), I just want to say there SHOULD be more that goes in to lifting a towable than just flipping the axles. Cross members should be added for stability. PLEASE get lots of advice and do a lot of research before doing this kind of work. i had the axles flipped on my last fifth wheel professionally. They did it for me cheap and I was happy... that was until a blowout on my center axle sheered the hangar on my rear axle, knocking it right off. I was lucky in that the axle wedged itself between the frame and a grey tank. But it was costly nonetheless.
Keith
I don't think flipping the axles had anything to do with it. My boss at work had the same thing happen to his toyhauler and his axles hadn't been flipped. Hanger on his failed also.
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