"Flipping the axle"

[Redfour5]

On some units, you can do what is commonly called flipping the axles. Essentially, what you do is put the axle on top of the leaf springs. I did this with my Aspen Trail 1700BH and it would apply to the 1800's 1900's etc. If you look at the black gray tank drain on these it sits about six inches above the ground OEM. OK, maybe exagerating a bit, but they are very low. Flipping the axle will get you another five or six inches and makes a big difference particularly if you like national forest camping and the dirt roads that often get you there... Now, you will need to retrofit a new set of steps usually if you do this, but I got some online for like 85 bucks that was a simple nut and bolt adaptation... https://www.amazon.com/Lippert-43268...73Q4F511&psc=1

IF, you do this at purchase, the dealer might throw it in or charge you very little (200 bucks for me). It is a nice, simple upgrade for many.... Just some food for thought... My new 2340BHSWE was "flipped" at the factory... Now, if you have a Kodiak, they have tortion bar suspensions and are higher by nature. So, that is like one of the "upfits" on equivalent units/floorplans between models.

[ATCguy]

Just something to keep in mind when considering this:

Doing this raises the center of gravity, and increases the instability of your trailer. They’re designed & engineered close to the ground for a reason.

Under most conditions, the slight increase won’t be an issue. But if you’re towing in high crosswinds like we often have in the west, or on wet & winding roads... it’s just something to keep in mind.

If you own a toy-hauler, another thing to consider is that doing this will increase the ramp-angle for loading & unloading your toys... making it more difficult to get them in & out, and/or causing the frame to scrape when rolling over the break-over point.

[dsol]

I think the Voltages are all flipped when they come from the factory. I know my 3305 was.

[ewarnerusa]

After an axle flip, the last stair step does indeed become a doozy. We solved it with this nice stool as the new bottom step rather than new stairs, although I did consider new stairs as the first option. This stool is very stable with traction grip surface. At first I thought it was overpriced and over-engineered for a "simple stool", but after a lot of use and realization of how much force (and reliance!) you put down when coming out of the camper on that last step I have changed my tune.
https://www.recpro.com/recpro-alumin...UaAjBlEALw_wcB

[acdii]

You mean put the axle "Under" the springs. Putting them on top will lower the trailer.

Just so there is no confusion.

[Lagman]

I did mine on our Clipper 17FQ after the U-bolts slapped and dented the frame rail in Arizona and I didn’t like the the idea of ripping of the tank fittings. I put heavier springs on (2500#), wet shackle bolts and shocks. The difference is unbelievable. No more riding the road crowns and dodging expansion joints. The shock kit was a bonus since it was all apart and I’m sure it helps with the stability. I bought the 2 step gear and only had to drill for one bolt. It Lippert frame so Lippert bolted up nice. If your going, go all the way. You I’ll need 4 heavy duty jackstands and a elder for the spring seat and top shock mount. All in about $400

[AETHERIA]

Hello
I would be careful at "flipping the axel" axels have a bend to them and they need to go back the same way so putting them under the springs will need new saddles welded in place, Dexter makes a saddle kit for different size axels. the bend is so when the trailer is loaded the tires then run with the full tread width contacting the road. If you just flip them you will get excessive tread wear on one side of the tires, I believe it is the inside. Do some research on this and check the with axel manufactures. I know a lot of people just do it but it is not the correct way. I did move my Kodiak axels to under the springs but used new saddles.
Good Luck.

[capeharj]

Originally Posted by Redfour5

On some units, you can do what is commonly called flipping the axles. Essentially, what you do is put the axle on top of the leaf springs. I did this with my Aspen Trail 1700BH and it would apply to the 1800's 1900's etc. If you look at the black gray tank drain on these it sits about six inches above the ground OEM. OK, maybe exagerating a bit, but they are very low. Flipping the axle will get you another five or six inches and makes a big difference particularly if you like national forest camping and the dirt roads that often get you there... Now, you will need to retrofit a new set of steps usually if you do this, but I got some online for like 85 bucks that was a simple nut and bolt adaptation... https://www.amazon.com/Lippert-43268...73Q4F511&psc=1

IF, you do this at purchase, the dealer might throw it in or charge you very little (200 bucks for me). It is a nice, simple upgrade for many.... Just some food for thought... My new 2340BHSWE was "flipped" at the factory... Now, if you have a Kodiak, they have tortion bar suspensions and are higher by nature. So, that is like one of the "upfits" on equivalent units/floorplans between models.

You mean you put the axle underneath the springs, to put the axle on top of the springs lowers the unit. I always considered on top as above, and underneith as below. This is what older hot rodders used to do to raise the rear end of the car to produce a rake. It is also not a safe thing to do unless you have the axle modified. There is a block welded on the axle that keeps the axle in position and keeps it from rolling. Of course you could turn the axle upside down, but that will affect the brakes. Then as others have said, you raise the center of gravity which makes the unit mor susceptible to rolling over and to high winds. Last, I don't think any dealer will do it because they would be liable for any mishape because of the modification of the manufacturers design.

[ewarnerusa]

dealer is the one who did it for us.