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Old 04-28-2015, 12:50 AM   #21
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[QUOTE=Camper2b;25489]Will they have to remove slide to replace rail? I'm wondering if I can remove all the screws with exception of the ones between the wall and pull out and seal behind rail?[/QUOTE]

The rail is part of an assembly, as are all the rails for one side. I believe they call it a column. The column is custom made for a specific size slide, and has all the rails, drive rods, and gears. The motor drops in on top. My bedroom slide columns got all hacked up because the slide was not installed properly by Dutchmen. The local dealer had to shim it, and order two columns. My slide was binding so bad it took a bunch of guys to move it. I was told with the motors disconnected, you should easily be able to push the slid in or out. Unfortunately, this was all out of warranty. I do believe the slide needs to come fully out to set this up, but I could be wrong. The local shop got my slide working with a new motor and some jury rigging so we could take a trip. It's going back for two new columns, motors, and basically, to be installed the way it should have been in the first place.
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Old 04-28-2015, 01:41 AM   #22
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[/QUOTE]

The rail is part of an assembly, as are all the rails for one side. I believe they call it a column. The column is custom made for a specific size slide, and has all the rails, drive rods, and gears. The motor drops in on top. My bedroom slide columns got all hacked up because the slide was not installed properly by Dutchmen. The local dealer had to shim it, and order two columns. My slide was binding so bad it took a bunch of guys to move it. I was told with the motors disconnected, you should easily be able to push the slid in or out. Unfortunately, this was all out of warranty. I do believe the slide needs to come fully out to set this up, but I could be wrong. The local shop got my slide working with a new motor and some jury rigging so we could take a trip. It's going back for two new columns, motors, and basically, to be installed the way it should have been in the first place.[/QUOTE]

This is what I figured. Just wanted to make sure there wasn't some new techniques in replacing parts. Install from factory seems to be the culprit in most failures. Good luck, let us know the outcome.

Thanks
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Old 04-29-2015, 06:16 PM   #23
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OP thank you. I went out this morning to look found both bottom rails not sealed very good, and a gap on the road side lower molding/rail. I tightened the screws found six broken screws. I replaced them. Thor must use Chinese counterfeit screws and bolts, and extra high torque tools to assemble these units. Makes me wonder where else they use them making trailers unsafe for highway use.(suspect counterfeit)
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Old 04-29-2015, 06:51 PM   #24
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Will they have to remove slide to replace rail? I'm wondering if I can remove all the screws with exception of the ones between the wall and pull out and seal behind rail?
I am not sure if they will have to remove the entire slide on mine, as of yesterday they are still waiting the parts and "detailed" instructions.....
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Old 06-12-2015, 01:22 AM   #25
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Repaired leak and repaired floor. Used epoxy resins and fillers. Its some strong durable stuff.
As you can see the floor is not rotted it was good and solid. It was the resin coating that was breaking loose. Probably the weight of the slide on the small rollers. I do feel that water wicking underneath initiated the problem. I had thought about the metal plates under rollers as well. Glad to read someone "catdog" has successfully installed! I see these plates on a lot of slide systems. I was concerned about tolerance issues with the schwintek system...
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Old 06-12-2015, 02:53 AM   #26
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That looks just like mine exactly. I need to post the other thing I figured out but it is hard to explain. so I'm trying to decide how to get my point across. I will try and explain it a little later on my other post. There was plenty of clearance on my slides.
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Old 06-12-2015, 03:17 AM   #27
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Mean while, I am still waiting to get mine back so I can figure out what they did (if anything) to fix my bedroom slide issue.
Latest crissis with mine, they were suppose to tighten/ replace the slide out topper on my living room slide. Got a call today saying the fabric they received did not have the LED strip like the one they took off...... Anyone else see something wrong here??

Sorry to steal this thread, I will post what ever they did to my slide if I ever see my camper.
Nice fix catdog! I bet I will have to steal your idea cause I am sure these Bozos wont fix mine.
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Old 06-12-2015, 04:11 AM   #28
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Honesty. If you were having problems with the slide coming out. I would pick it up and drive around for 20 or 30 miles go back to the dealer and try to get it to come out. Mine......when I got it out and left it for awhile the decking would relax and then it would go in and out fine. Took it on a trip and it took 4 or 5 times in and out 6 or 7 inches to get it to go out all the way.
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Old 06-12-2015, 12:34 PM   #29
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I didn't take mine back to the dealer because I want to use it this summer. Furthermore, they said they couldn't replace the floor "if" thats what it needed, it would have to go back to factory. I will now be considering the roller plates since floor is repaired and solid.
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Old 06-12-2015, 03:10 PM   #30
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You might want to find a new dealer.

I just had the floor replaced in the wardrobe slide in the bed room of our 2014 Voltage 3200. It took the dealer (Golden Gait Trailers in Concord, NC) about a day to replace the floor. They replaced the OSB with marine grade plywood and used a sheet of stainless steel on the under side instead of the fabric. The slide works better now than it did from the factory.

Our unit was quite a few months past the factory 1 year warranty. I had initially talked to Dutchmen customer service about this and the suggested having the dealer submit for warranty authorization even though it was past the warranty period. The dealer submitted to Dutchmen and they agreed to cover the repair as "good faith" and not necessarily "warranty". Bottom line though is Dutchmen covered the floor replacement.
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Old 06-12-2015, 03:23 PM   #31
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Good Faith?? Wow, I tried to get them to fill a poor weld on my garage frame that was rusting and they wouldn't even allow that!
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Old 06-12-2015, 05:27 PM   #32
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You might want to find a new dealer.

I just had the floor replaced in the wardrobe slide in the bed room of our 2014 Voltage 3200. It took the dealer (Golden Gait Trailers in Concord, NC) about a day to replace the floor. They replaced the OSB with marine grade plywood and used a sheet of stainless steel on the under side instead of the fabric. The slide works better now than it did from the factory.

Our unit was quite a few months past the factory 1 year warranty. I had initially talked to Dutchmen customer service about this and the suggested having the dealer submit for warranty authorization even though it was past the warranty period. The dealer submitted to Dutchmen and they agreed to cover the repair as "good faith" and not necessarily "warranty". Bottom line though is Dutchmen covered the floor replacement.
O 2 b served! Good on you. If you don't mind me asking... Any idea what the repair cost would be if you had to pay? (Can Golden Gait provide you that info if you don't know?)

I may need to have the same repair to the same slide. I've had to replace a failed motor last year, and its replacement again this year. Suspicious that motor failure is due to it "burning out by over working", which may be caused by either a soft or swollen osb floor (possibly caused by water wicking). Mine's a 2012 so I doubt Dutchmen would extend their "good faith" that far for my repair. I have and extended warranty but fine print rules out coverage for repairs associated to water/leak damage.

If water wicking is the culprit (and not a more serious structural issue), I'm hoping that installation of metal strips for roller support on floor soft spots, and/or sanding down/re-sealing the swollen spots of the floor, will suffice to resolve. And not have to replace the entire slide floor. Maybe I'll (have a beer first) and give Dutchmen a dingle to feel them out, just the same...

Mike
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Old 06-12-2015, 06:51 PM   #33
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Mike,

I saw the work order and I think that there was around $250 in materials and around 12 hours labor. They did have to pull the room twice because they couldn't get it working smoothly.

They knew before pulling the room that the motor assembly on the rear end of the room wasn't installed exactly plum (for lack of better terms) at the factory. The roller on the lower rail wasn't even touching and the gear wasn't meshing as tightly as the middle and top rails. They ended up removing the rails and reinstalling them to get things squared up properly and shimmed the motor column. I think that added a few hours to the repair at least.

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Old 02-08-2016, 10:23 PM   #34
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My 3950 has been at the dealer for 4 weeks now with the same type of damage. Looking at your picture on the right, the angle aluminum has 6 of the screws sheared off and the slide out never fully retracted, I could always put two fingers between the rear seal and wall. There was about 3/4 inch gap where the corners of the aluminum were supose to meet up at the miter joint, covered with sealant. Just got word today that the warrenty department at Dutchmen (Heartland) is sending that entire angle and screws with very specific instructions on how to repair this area and how to ensure the slide tracks are completely sealed. They are also replacing the top of the bedroom dresser that has water marks and starting to bubble up. No visible water leakage from roof or upper wall area.
My V3950 is currently at the dealer scheduled to have the bedroom and living room slide floors replaced. Dutchman said "sorry". Our extended warranty doesn't cover water damage so we were going to be stuck with an $8,500 repair bill. Luckily our dealer, RV World of Georgia, put pressure on the upper management of the warranty company and they are gonna cover it. I imagine we will be without our fifth wheel for quite some time.
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Old 03-25-2016, 01:57 AM   #35
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I had the leaking rails making the bedroom slide floor soft. After fixing the leak, I took 12ga steel and cut it into about 12" x 16" pieces to screw to the floor so the plastic rollers now ride on the steel. The bedroom slide now works better than it ever did. I was scared to death I was going to have to pay to replace the floor but this mod works like a charm. I will post up some pic's tomorrow when I pick up my trailer.
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Old 03-25-2016, 03:29 AM   #36
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Speaking of leaky slides I found water dripping on the inside of the window, of our main slide, from the top of the frame. Sealing up the windows better didn't work. Found that where the slide's rubber roof met the metal of the outside wall of the slide was where the leak was. These things can leak from almost anywhere, especially with such awesome attention to detail we get from Dutchmen, lol.
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Old 03-25-2016, 04:31 AM   #37
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I had an '84 model that sat at the lake for years. They ALL leak and yuo have to watch out for it.
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Old 03-25-2016, 01:07 PM   #38
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That's one good thing about living in these boxes full time, when it rains you can find those leaks immediately, if you look. So much better than waiting to go happy RVing only to find a swollen or rusted and stuck something because of water intrusion.
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Old 03-25-2016, 03:27 PM   #39
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Well I thought I was finally going to pick up my3950 from repair shop but when I got there, I was greeted by this on my bedroom slide:

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So it still sits at the dealer...... 13.5 months out of the 15 months of proud ownership!
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Old 03-25-2016, 03:55 PM   #40
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Speaking of leaky slides I found water dripping on the inside of the window, of our main slide, from the top of the frame. Sealing up the windows better didn't work. Found that where the slide's rubber roof met the metal of the outside wall of the slide was where the leak was. These things can leak from almost anywhere, especially with such awesome attention to detail we get from Dutchmen, lol.
It took a few months for us to chase down a leak in the garage. It was from a window, but after doing everything under the sun, I got mad and took the silly thing out. Well, the hole is cut a little too big for the window and they used 1/4 inch wide wx stripping. I found some wx stripping that was the same width as the window lip, set the window in place, sprayed expanding foam all the way around the window, then put the inside frame back on...no problems since...

May end up pulling all the interior frames and filling with expanding foam. Will used closed cell foam, as it is waterprrof.

Cale
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