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10-05-2016, 10:40 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Readfield
Posts: 137
Maine
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Thermostat
Fellow Dutchmen owners. I have a 2016 Voltage with (yet another) problem.
I am down in the south in heat, and my dometic thermostat just straight up quit working. Earlier today I got a couple of E1 codes, but cleared them by doing a reset. Now I am trying to trace the phone cable that goes between the Tstat and the main AC. There is a junction/splice somewhere as there is a couple of black phone cables leaving the main AC, and the cable entering the Tstat is gray.
So...the million dollar question for this latest failure: Does anyone know where the splice is for the phone wires that leave the main AC?
Thanks in advance!
Both Dometic and Dutchmen customer support were useless (as expected). Unfortunately there aren't any dealers that can help me locally for at least a couple of weeks.
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10-05-2016, 10:49 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: kamloops
Posts: 2,152
British Columbia
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Boost,
I have a totally different rig and T-stat, but I have found a bunch of stuff inside the wall behind the T-stat.
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Jim
When I was a kid I was going nowhere fast, now I'm an old man I'm going everywhere slow.
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10-05-2016, 10:52 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Readfield
Posts: 137
Maine
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I looked there and no luck. It appears to be heading to the roof.
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10-05-2016, 11:26 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Callaway
Posts: 864
Maryland
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That is a loss of commas error code. You need to pull the center AC and check the data cable (phone connector) for damage, water, or loose. A few have found water in the intake side, thus allowing corrosion on the connector, or some have found the wires pulled from the connector.
Cale
__________________
TV: 2015 F-350 DRW, CC, 4x4, with 14k GVWR package, 98 gallon TransferFlow Aux Tank, Timbren Shocks
TH: 2014 Voltage 3950, Sailun S637 all around
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10-05-2016, 11:31 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Readfield
Posts: 137
Maine
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Clean as a whistle. Currently I'm not even getting an e1 code, just dead tstat
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10-05-2016, 11:36 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Callaway
Posts: 864
Maryland
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No lights on the LED screen? Check the fuse.
There could be a dead control board, where all the jumpers are.
Here is the manual: http://www.dometic.com/QBankFiles3/E...nual_17586.pdf
Cale
__________________
TV: 2015 F-350 DRW, CC, 4x4, with 14k GVWR package, 98 gallon TransferFlow Aux Tank, Timbren Shocks
TH: 2014 Voltage 3950, Sailun S637 all around
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10-05-2016, 11:44 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Readfield
Posts: 137
Maine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calewjohnson
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All the fuses in the distribution panel are OK. Is there a sub fuse anywhere?
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10-05-2016, 11:47 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Callaway
Posts: 864
Maryland
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Hmmm, wouldn't surprise me if there was a fuse located either in the thermostat or in the brain box. I know there are fuses in the fridge and furnace. I'm at a loss here.
Cale
__________________
TV: 2015 F-350 DRW, CC, 4x4, with 14k GVWR package, 98 gallon TransferFlow Aux Tank, Timbren Shocks
TH: 2014 Voltage 3950, Sailun S637 all around
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10-05-2016, 11:50 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Readfield
Posts: 137
Maine
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Yeah so am I. Had fixed the e1 issue earlier, and now the damn thing is dead. Starting to think they may be related. I wish I had a wiring diagram...but oh that's right it's a Dutchman and they don't exist. (That's right!)
If I could find that splice...
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10-05-2016, 11:52 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Readfield
Posts: 137
Maine
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I just can't keep up with things breaking on this POS. Seems like I fix one thing and two more quit.
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10-06-2016, 03:38 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Blanchester
Posts: 44
Ohio
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boost, sounds to me like the thermostat may have died. I've never had the thermostat off the wall so my suggestion may be pointless but... if you disconnect all but the power lead to the back of the thermostat does it at least power on? When i reworked my a/c ducting the power plugs that the factory had installed cracked, I didn't notice it when i reinstalled my a/c. I went down and turned the unit on and all worked, ran to the store came back and fired it up again and received the same error you are. I climbed up tore it apart and fixed the electric plug and tried to fire it back up with no success, had to disconnect the phone line at the unit and plug it back in and have had no issues since. Essentially I would really take a good look at the factory (forklift style) electrical connection the they are not very good in my opinion I ended up wire nutting mine to make sure all the insulation on the lines was stripped and making connection.
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2015- Voltage 3818.
2013- F-350 White Platinum DRW.
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10-06-2016, 05:27 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Readfield
Posts: 137
Maine
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All. 150 dollars later I have everything working again. It was a corroded connection at the splice point I couldn't find yesterday. The non Dutchman dealer I was able to take me in this morning knew right where it would be (inside the condenser shroud).
Guess my threats of trading this in are belayed till the next failure...
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10-06-2016, 06:48 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: kamloops
Posts: 2,152
British Columbia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostme
All. 150 dollars later I have everything working again. It was a corroded connection at the splice point I couldn't find yesterday. The non Dutchman dealer I was able to take me in this morning knew right where it would be (inside the condenser shroud).
Guess my threats of trading this in are belayed till the next failure...
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Glad you found it. Sounds suspiciously like that other post awhile back, I just couldn't remember where the connection was.
Dutchmen dealers are why I like my local little independent repair shop. He's does good work and he gives a better warranty on his work
__________________
Jim
When I was a kid I was going nowhere fast, now I'm an old man I'm going everywhere slow.
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10-06-2016, 07:31 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Readfield
Posts: 137
Maine
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Good thing is, I'm not sure many other things could break on this thing now that I won't know how to fix! 😎
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10-06-2016, 07:32 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Readfield
Posts: 137
Maine
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Tomorrow is the unveiling of the Luxe hauler. It may be my undoing...
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10-06-2016, 10:10 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: kamloops
Posts: 2,152
British Columbia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostme
Tomorrow is the unveiling of the Luxe hauler. It may be my undoing...
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The RV industry has nothing they can tempt me with anymore, We had, at least I toyed with the idea of something different, but Dutchmen POd me enough and I have spent too much time and money fixing their crap, I would be taking a step backwards.
__________________
Jim
When I was a kid I was going nowhere fast, now I'm an old man I'm going everywhere slow.
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10-06-2016, 10:24 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Readfield
Posts: 137
Maine
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Interesting point... Eventually I will have fixed everything on this thing!
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10-06-2016, 11:06 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Callaway
Posts: 864
Maryland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostme
All. 150 dollars later I have everything working again. It was a corroded connection at the splice point I couldn't find yesterday. The non Dutchman dealer I was able to take me in this morning knew right where it would be (inside the condenser shroud).
Guess my threats of trading this in are belayed till the next failure...
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Where was this? Is this different than the phone cable? I need to check mine as a preventative procedure.
Thanks.
Cale
__________________
TV: 2015 F-350 DRW, CC, 4x4, with 14k GVWR package, 98 gallon TransferFlow Aux Tank, Timbren Shocks
TH: 2014 Voltage 3950, Sailun S637 all around
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10-06-2016, 11:10 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Readfield
Posts: 137
Maine
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It's the splice of the two phone cables together. It is in the condenser compartment which you can only access from the roof. First take the main ac cover off, then the condenser cover. The tech made no attempt to waterproof the connection when he repaired it(which that area naturally can get moisture), so I still have to open it and waterproof it. I'll take photos when I do.
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10-06-2016, 11:16 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Callaway
Posts: 864
Maryland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boostme
It's the splice of the two phone cables together. It is in the condenser compartment which you can only access from the roof. First take the main ac cover off, then the condenser cover. The tech made no attempt to waterproof the connection when he repaired it(which that area naturally can get moisture), so I still have to open it and waterproof it. I'll take photos when I do.
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Ah, that was the connector I was referring to in my first post last night. I have had my AC unit off a time or two, but never messed with that connector. With that being, I was very careful to tape everything tight.
Be careful putting the AC back, as there are only lag bolts holding it down. Mine were stripped, I went up one size and all has been good.
Cale
__________________
__________________
TV: 2015 F-350 DRW, CC, 4x4, with 14k GVWR package, 98 gallon TransferFlow Aux Tank, Timbren Shocks
TH: 2014 Voltage 3950, Sailun S637 all around
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