I have asked three different dealers about this issue and all say there's nothing they can do. My living room slide on the left side of the coach doesn't compress the seal evenly down the front side of the slide. The top portion is compressed but the bottom of the slide makes contact without any compression and as you can see I can slide my fingers between the seal and the coach. All the other slides compress evenly, including the back side of this slide. I just picked up the coach from the dealer who replaced all the bulb seals because the factory installed them too close to the slide rail and they were being chewed up by the rail. I don't see any moisture entering the slide so far but I don't want to have an issue in the future. Should I be concerned or am I just being anal....
2015 Voltage 3305
2007 Freightliner M2 Business Class
Happiness is an old pickup truck, a good dog and an understanding woman....
my slide seal on my main slide does not touch at the bottom at all. I would doubt it was normal but the only fix I could see would be rework the entire bottom to make it seal.. I figured as long as it wasnt leaking, the less they at the shop get their hands on the better off I am
I've always wondered this, too. My seals are also about that tight (as cowboys pictures) but evenly all around. Could that be adjusted tighter by "re-calibrating" the slideout?? There's a "Stall Force Calibration" adjuster on the slideout controller. But it's covered by a "break seal to calibrate" sticker. That's frightened me away from trying to tinker with it. (break seal = void warranty??). Would really like to here what others might think about the "stall force calibration" thingy, and as a possible remedy to tighten up the slide sealing.
2012 Voltage 3905 EPIC
2012 Ram 3500HD CTD CC LB DRW 4x4
2011 Suzuki RMZ250F
2010 Yamaha YZ125
Mine has a double seal, one next to the other, and they both touch the surface, but are not squashed down. I have never had a problem either, and I think that as long as they are touching, they shouldn't leak.
I think most of us with the Schwintek slides are holding the switch down 3 to 5 seconds after the slide stops to keep the motors in synch as recommended by a Lippert you tube video posted on the forum about 6 months ago. I couldn't find the post to give credit to the OP, but I did find the you tube link below...
Mine was also not even when closed and the seal was not as tight at the bottom on the living room slide. I then had warranty work done on the slide because it was binding and the motor was chewing up the track on one side. When the work was completed the slide was tight top to bottom when closed. Not sure if it was part of the issue. The tech showed me that corrosion between the metal rod that turns the gears and a guide block had caused the sticking and binding.
The slide now works without issue. It seems lubrication and alignment are very important for these slides to work properly especially the larger slides.
2013 Voltage 3200 with 17.5 wheels and disc brakes towed by a 2014 Ram CTD 3500 SRW crew cab short bed