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Old 03-26-2016, 05:54 PM   #21
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I ran into the same problem on my 3990. I found it easier to convert everything to 3'' lines. I loosened the band clamp on pipe coming from the tank, removed it, along with the reducer and cut a section of ABS to replace it. On the opposite side of the valve I replaced it with 3" pipe and replaced the collector with a 3"x3" into 3" in place of the 3"x1.5" into 3". Problem solved with the bonus of faster dumping of greywater. I also shortened the outside sewer connection, while I was in plumbing mode, to get the connection from under the main slide.
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Old 03-27-2016, 03:38 AM   #22
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Great job Michael!!

That's what its all about...making things work better, and making it easier to deal with. I had to lengthen my piping to the connection in order to get it out from under the main slide.

On to the next project!!!

Pirate
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Old 03-27-2016, 10:57 AM   #23
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Those that have done this - please explain ABS vs PVC? And why ABS on this instead of PVC?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 03-27-2016, 12:11 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by donzinger View Post
Those that have done this - please explain ABS vs PVC? And why ABS on this instead of PVC?

Thanks in advance!
ABS is black PVC is white...

I "think" ABS was produced prior to PVC being introduced and was primarily for drain lines. I know ABS typically does not contain UV stabilizers so must be protected aka buried. ABS is cheaper and more durable than PVC, and easier to install. No primer needed just glue. I also suspect a large part of what gets used where is code driven.

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Old 03-27-2016, 12:43 PM   #25
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OK - I just assumed the black was PVC waste piping.

Thanks!
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Old 03-27-2016, 06:32 PM   #26
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Don,

And be aware...ABS cement sets up dang near instantaneously! Have alignment marks on the piping...I used blue masking tape and made my alignment marks on the tape.

Use a bit of emery paper to get the pieces to where they will go together fully when dry.

Then put on the cement and shove 'em together!!

I wound up having to cut a brand new ABS elbow and a bit of straight pipe off due to not doing the above. So wound up adding a coupling a piece of ABS pipe and then another elbow.

Not a real expensive lesson...but one well learned!!!

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Old 03-28-2016, 09:49 PM   #27
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I ran into the same problem on my 3990. I found it easier to convert everything to 3'' lines. I loosened the band clamp on pipe coming from the tank, removed it, along with the reducer and cut a section of ABS to replace it. On the opposite side of the valve I replaced it with 3" pipe and replaced the collector with a 3"x3" into 3" in place of the 3"x1.5" into 3". Problem solved with the bonus of faster dumping of greywater. I also shortened the outside sewer connection, while I was in plumbing mode, to get the connection from under the main slide.
Hey MichaelB,



Does that fitting at the tank thats secured with the band clamp have any type of sealant/glue on it? Mine looks like it has some sort of putty or butyl tape around it. Does it come out easy when you loosen the clamp?
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Old 03-28-2016, 10:00 PM   #28
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There is some plumbers putty on the pipe. I just loosened the clamp, took my time, wiggled and twisted the pipe and it came out with little effort. Be careful and not pry on the end of the tank outlet. The material is pretty thin.
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Old 03-28-2016, 10:16 PM   #29
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So I assume you put plumbers putty on the piece of ABS you installed? I'm still weighing my options on how to proceed. The easy way would be to replace my 1.5 in cable valve with a regular valve with a handle and install the Barker electric actuator on the new valve. If I choose to use the 3in valterra that I have already bought, I will probably have to re-plumb everything due to the way it is currently plumbed. Decisions, decisions.
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Old 03-28-2016, 10:32 PM   #30
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Yes, I put a very thin layer just in the area where the band clamp will be positioned. I also used a file to bevel the edge of the pipe to make insertion easier, it's a snug fit.

I struggled with the same decision as you. I did a little research a decided on the Valterra setup. Yes, it's a little more work, but I read about a few bad issues with the Barker setup pertaining to motor burnout when open and close limits weren't set just right.

Good luck! Just holler if you need any more info.
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Old 03-28-2016, 11:03 PM   #31
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Thanks for the info Mike. If the pipe is a snug fit, how do keep from scraping the putty off while inserting the pipe into the tank outlet?
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Old 03-28-2016, 11:50 PM   #32
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Some will, but enough will remain to do the job. The band clamp and the elastic nature of the outlet itself will seal it properly .
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Old 03-29-2016, 12:02 AM   #33
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Alrighty then, thanks Mike! Now I just have to decide which route I wanna take.
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Old 03-29-2016, 03:47 AM   #34
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If you take a look at the components that drive the Valterra electric valves and read up about what other uses the components are used for...I think you will find they are the way to go.

So nice to flip that switch and hear the valve cycle in less than a second!

And don't forget to think about adding the Twist-On Valterra valve at the drain outlet...nothing like a little insurance!! For instance, if you accidentally bump one of the electric valve switches while doing something else in the wet cabinet....and then go to hook up your dump hose...Uh Oh....

Just sayin'

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Old 03-29-2016, 03:48 PM   #35
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Hey Pirate,

Good save! I forgot to mention the twist-ons.......I don't care what kind of valves you have or plan to go with, I'll always have those attached to my rig.....They WILL save you from an accidental lap full!!!!
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Old 03-29-2016, 07:48 PM   #36
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Wishing I was as handy as you guys, but I know my limitations. What do you think it would cost to have someone put electric valves on all four of my grey tanks; parts and labor? Thanks
Rusty
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Old 03-29-2016, 08:12 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pirate View Post
If you take a look at the components that drive the Valterra electric valves and read up about what other uses the components are used for...I think you will find they are the way to go.

So nice to flip that switch and hear the valve cycle in less than a second!

And don't forget to think about adding the Twist-On Valterra valve at the drain outlet...nothing like a little insurance!! For instance, if you accidentally bump one of the electric valve switches while doing something else in the wet cabinet....and then go to hook up your dump hose...Uh Oh....

Just sayin'

Pirate
Yeah, I've been using the twist-on for years with my other campers to avoid any "surprises" but it ain't no surprise with the voltage because it has leaked since day one.
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Old 03-29-2016, 09:07 PM   #38
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Yeah, I've been using the twist-on for years with my other campers to avoid any "surprises" but it ain't no surprise with the voltage because it has leaked since day one.
I have a new 2016 V3305 and after using it for the second time--"surprise"-- black tank was not fully sealed--- twist valve arrived today!
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Old 03-29-2016, 11:50 PM   #39
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And Voltage guys...that's the main reason for the electric valve upgrade!!

The OEM cable operated valves have an 8 foot cable...which is wadded up between the belly and floor. its enclosed in plastic at both ends, so no way to lube the cable and no way to shorten the cable.

So the odds you can push the handle and the valve completely closes and seals...oh, a few thousand to one. I pushed hard enough on the front black tank valve handle to break the right side of the wet cabinet loose from the chassis.

So a couple of little ol' wires...no more pushing and the Valterra actuator closes the valve instantly and completely!!

Just sayin'

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Old 04-20-2016, 03:56 AM   #40
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I ran into the same problem on my 3990. I found it easier to convert everything to 3'' lines. I loosened the band clamp on pipe coming from the tank, removed it, along with the reducer and cut a section of ABS to replace it. On the opposite side of the valve I replaced it with 3" pipe and replaced the collector with a 3"x3" into 3" in place of the 3"x1.5" into 3". Problem solved with the bonus of faster dumping of greywater. I also shortened the outside sewer connection, while I was in plumbing mode, to get the connection from under the main slide.
I'm planning on doing the same thing, converting my back grey tank to 3" all the way to the dump area, however on my 3200 it would be about a 8-10' run of 3" pipe.
My question is what is the down side of putting the electric valve at the end of the run near the dump area rather than right next to the tank? Thoughts?
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