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06-10-2014, 05:52 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Millington
Posts: 32
Tennessee
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Atwood Hot water heater issue
Looking for some quick troubleshooting tips on an Atwood Hot Water heater Model: GC10A-4E. It has completely stopped working, electrically and on LP gas. I also noticed the lights on the circuit board are not on either (not positive if they should be on all the time when the system is running, I was unable to find any data points to the lights operation). I've checked to make sure all the connections were tight. This is a new unit, no corrosion or rust on it. I'm currently full timing in it and before I make my way over to a local dealer to fix it, I want to make sure I've looked at every option to fix it myself first. The 2015 Voltage is still under warranty, I’m sure everything will be covered. I would appreciate any help to fix this quickly or down to broken part.
I found the below Troubleshooting guide to help me out.
www.beamalarm.com/Documents/atwood_water_heater_troubleshooting.html
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2013 Chevy 3500 CC DRW LTZ (Black)
2015 Voltage 3970
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06-10-2014, 05:56 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Desert Hot Springs
Posts: 1,761
California
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Double check you 12v fuse panel. Should be a fuse to power the circuit board.
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Mike
2002 42' Monaco Signature Triple Crown tow 2014 F-150
2014 Voltage V3605 Sold 5/3/17
2012 F-350 6.7l CC 4X4, Sold 10/10/17
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06-10-2014, 06:19 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Millington
Posts: 32
Tennessee
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I was not able to find a 12V fuse on the Panel for my hot water heater (that was labeled for the Hot water heater), I did find a resetable breaker labled WH (15AMP). I did check the 2V fuse on the board, it was good.
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2013 Chevy 3500 CC DRW LTZ (Black)
2015 Voltage 3970
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06-10-2014, 11:01 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Millington
Posts: 32
Tennessee
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I was about to troubleshoot it down to the thermostat. Quick question, does the thermostat reset once it cools down? I read some place that it is rated for 140 degrees.
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2013 Chevy 3500 CC DRW LTZ (Black)
2015 Voltage 3970
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06-10-2014, 11:23 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Tahlequah
Posts: 3,079
Oklahoma
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Have you checked voltages from the circuit board? The board fuse may be good but there still needs to be a voltage at the gas valve, the 110volt electrode and to the ECO switches.
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2013 Voltage 3800, 2012 Chevy 3500 HD
2010 Yamaha V Star 950
2009 Yamaha Raider
Volunteering with Habitat for Humanity Caravanners
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06-10-2014, 11:23 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Midland
Posts: 606
Texas
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In my last trailer I was on my way home from the dealer, 300 miles away in the middle of the night, before I figured the WH wasn't working. Yea... I did a great job on the PDI???
A call the next day had me check the WH bypass, which on this trailer was behind the basement wall. Sure enough the WH was winterized and set to bypass.
Is it possible that someone flipped the WH bypass Winterization switch in your UDC?
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Mike & Helen
2014 Voltage 3895 EPIC III
2013 Ford F350 CC DRW FX4
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06-11-2014, 02:06 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 183
Oklahoma
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Just my 2cents. Start at the beginning and make sure you have power to the unit by measuring at the heater for either 12 volts for the valve, or 110 volts for the electrical element. Don't assume that because the breakers are closed that you have power. A loose wire is not uncommon. If you have power, then check fuses at the unit, which you have done. Next is to make sure that the switches in the heater are set right. There is a switch in the heater itself that will turn the electric feature off. Then make sure the switch in the power panel is set right. Also make sure that the thermostat is turned up to its highest setting for all these tests, that way you can be pretty sure that the heater should be working.
Doing all these things should isolate where to look for a problem.(loose wire, bad switch, bad valve, bad sensor)
Hope this will get you started.
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2010 F-450
2013 Voltage 3905
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06-11-2014, 04:31 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: kamloops
Posts: 2,152
British Columbia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macman83
Just my 2cents. Start at the beginning and make sure you have power to the unit by measuring at the heater for either 12 volts for the valve, or 110 volts for the electrical element. Don't assume that because the breakers are closed that you have power. A loose wire is not uncommon. If you have power, then check fuses at the unit, which you have done. Next is to make sure that the switches in the heater are set right. There is a switch in the heater itself that will turn the electric feature off. Then make sure the switch in the power panel is set right. Also make sure that the thermostat is turned up to its highest setting for all these tests, that way you can be pretty sure that the heater should be working.
Doing all these things should isolate where to look for a problem.(loose wire, bad switch, bad valve, bad sensor)
Hope this will get you started.
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Your 2 cents is worth 5.
Seen more than my fair share of loose wires and bad switches over the years. Still have to eliminate things in a methodical manner.
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06-12-2014, 01:15 AM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Millington
Posts: 32
Tennessee
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Thanks for the information, I'm up and running. I noticed now my water heater when using either LP gas or Electric it has a high pitch hum by the circuit board. Is this normal? I did not notice it when I was conducting my PDI a few months back?
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2013 Chevy 3500 CC DRW LTZ (Black)
2015 Voltage 3970
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