6 point leveling system install question

[rlpatte]

Was wondering if anyone had done the Lippert Ground Control 3.0 install on their Voltage. I have a 2017 3005 and would like to put the Ground Control system on it. Lippert states that the middle and rear jacks should be 12" in front of the front tire, and 12" behind the rear tire, respectively.

I pretty much only have this much room. I cannot mount them any further away from the tires, in either direction. With that in mind, is 12" pretty typical? They seem awfully close to the axles. It has plenty of clearance so I'm not worried about them hitting the tires, or the tires hitting them, but it just seems like the more you could space them out the more stable the 5er would be.

There is 9' from where the rear jacks would mount to the rear bumper. That seems like a lot of overhang. Would the camper sway/move with people inside walking around?

[ATCguy]

Originally Posted by rlpatte

...but it just seems like the more you could space them out the more stable the 5er would be.

There is 9' from where the rear jacks would mount to the rear bumper. That seems like a lot of overhang. Would the camper sway/move with people inside walking around?

Well, I've got the 6-point hydraulic jacks on my rig... though it wasn't called "Ground Control" back in 2013.

In re how far from the axle they should be mounted... keep in mind the following: even in they retracted position for travel, they hang down pretty far. Pretty much down BELOW the center of the wheel hub. (see photos below)





The further from the axle they are mounted, the greater chance they have of being ripped completely off of the rig when towing over uneven terrain... potholes in the pavement, or even construction trenches... and even some of the taller speed bumps I've encountered in certain RV parks.

As for the rear overhang length... most of the rig's weight is forward of the garage, especially when the various water & waste tanks are utilized. In my eight years of RVing in the Voltage, it has never been a major issue. Sure there's some 'swaying' in the rig as people move around inside, but the easiest way to address that is keeping the stroke of your jacks as short as possible.

A shorter stroke (extension) means less 'flex' of the jack legs, which translated into less movement of the rig. I use the Andersen blocks for my rig, but you can use almost any type of "cribbing" for this (wood or plastic lego-style blocks). I bought them for all 6 jacks, and have been using them for almost a few years now when staying someplace long term... but even just shortening the stroke on the front 2 landing-gear jacks (since they have the longest stroke) helps quite a bit.

[rlpatte]

Thanks ATCGuy. This is really helpful. I appreciate the photos. I'm just having a hard time getting over how close 12" is to the tires. Not sure how far yours are but if they are 12"'ish I feel much better. And thanks for the data r.e. approach angles, etc. We do a fair bit of boondocking and, to your point, I would hate to rip those suckers off trying to get back into our favorite camping spot.

[ATCguy]

Originally Posted by rlpatte

...Not sure how far yours are but if they are 12"'ish I feel much better....

I’ll be out where my rig is stored tomorrow... I’ll measure it out for you.

[rlpatte]

Wow ATCguy. Thanks. Really appreciate it.

[dsol]

@ripette, keep in mind the purpose of the rear jacks is not to stabilize the trailer front to back as it is to just be a couple of points to support the weight of the rear. The front to back stabilization happens when the landing jacks are used in connection with the rears. I assume the rear tires/axles handle about 80-90% of the trailer weight so you likely need two sets of jacks in the back to support that. The front is the balance of the weight.

The rear jacks/stabilizers have the ability to lift the tires completely off the ground and hold all that weight basically forever so to me at makes sense the jacks should be close to the axles. And like ATCguy stated because they are so close to the wheels far less chance of damaging on approach or departure on driveways, speed bumps, etc.

I think if they could design a pair of jacks for the rear that could support all that weight they would do it and save money as opposed to using 4 and you would get similar front to back stability working together with the fronts.

Anyway, my somewhat random thoughts. [emoji3]

[donzinger]

Originally Posted by rlpatte

Would the camper sway/move with people inside walking around?

I installed a set JT Strongarms on my Voltage and they all but eliminated front to back movement felt from the three dogs and people moving around.

[ATCguy]

Ok, so I took a few photos... would’ve gotten better angles if I had another person there, but these should do.

All photos taken from the curb-side of the rig.

First up are the most rearward jack & wheel. As you can see (especially in the 2nd photo), the jack-post is right at 12” from the trailing edge of the rear tire. Of course, tire size has a part to play in this, so... it appears to be about 28” from the center of the wheel hub.





Moving to the front tire... the jack is a little further forward at approximately 14” from the center of the jack-post to the leading edge of the tire. Which makes it about 30” from the wheel hub.









Hope this helps...

[rlpatte]

Thanks again ATCguy. I really appreciate your help. I measured mine, or where I think they will likely have to go:

Front driver's side - 12" or 24" from bolt on front spring hanger to middle of jack bracket. 24" is right up against the front of the waste tank connection and will probably rub going down the road. May wear a hole in the black tank drain line. 12" is right up against the back of the waste tank connection but will probably clear enough to work. At those measurements the bracket is about 5.25" from the leading edge of the tire.

Rear driver's side - Pretty much anywhere from 12" from trailing edge of rear tire to 18" to the center of the mounting bracket.

Rear passenger side - 12" from trailing edge of tire to center of bracket. That's about it. Really no other possibilities.

Front passenger side - 12" in front of bolt in spring hanger to center of bracket will require some re-routing of gas lines and a gas manifold that is bolted to the frame right there. Could go as far as 28" from bolt in spring hanger.

Given the limitations it looks like 12" in front, measured from the spring hanger, which puts it only about 5.25" away from the leading edge of the front tire.

Rear will be 12" from trailing edge of back tire.

I wish I had a little more options on the front placement but I guess it is what it is. Gonna go over there tomorrow and get started. No time like the present

[Edbush]

I would suggest direct contact with Lippert as any mistakes may be at your cost?