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Old 10-31-2016, 01:22 AM   #1
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2014 Voltage 3895 Onwers Manual help

WE purchase a 2014 V3895, it came with no paperwork. I:ve done some searching with no luck so thought I would ask. I'm not new to RVs but certainly not extremely experienced either and this is our first toy hauler. Trying to get the dumping and cleaning the tanks right. Anyone know where an owners manual can be downloaded?
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Old 10-31-2016, 01:30 AM   #2
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There's no such thing as an owner's manual for these things. At best they will give you the manuals that are for each of the appliances. There are lots of forums like this one where you can get good (and bad) advice. Even the "simple" issue you raised of dumping and cleaning tanks is not simple: some people like their black tank clean enough to eat off (eeewww) and others like me give it a rinse once in a while. Use the search function. Try rv.net
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Old 10-31-2016, 01:36 AM   #3
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Thanks.

Thanks Joe for the reply, I kinda thought that might be the case. Really pretty bad they won't give you any information, guess I'll figure this out. Thanks again!
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Old 10-31-2016, 01:40 AM   #4
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Welcome to the forum!

Here is a link to the 2011-2014 Owner's Manual Looks about like the same one that came with my 16' Coleman.

Make a list of all your appliances and other equipment, note the manufacturer, model number and serial number. Then you can hit up the various manufacturers websites for the manuals. Dutchmen does have some on their website, but it is slow to load and not all of them are on there.

If you have specific questions, your best bet is going to be come here and ask. Someone on here will likely have a similar unit. FWIW Dutchmen is not known for their consistency in building units.

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Old 10-31-2016, 05:38 AM   #5
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We have a 2014 Voltage 3895. If you'll let me know what you specifically need, I can copy and get them to you. Cheryl wells
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Old 11-05-2016, 04:39 PM   #6
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Thanks Cherly for the offer, I may take you up on that. Specifically the plumbing, we have two bathrooms and two dump exits. One for black water and one for grey. We also have two clean santi cleans where you attach a water hose, I'm assuming for each of the black water tanks.
But I also have a dump valve thats white in color, I'm assuming this is for my fresh water tank? When I attach a hose to my santi clean on one of my black tanks I get no water coming out anywhere, weird. I was hoping for some kind of diagram that would explain this. Does yours have the swindel (SP) voters for the slide outs? Any issues or preventative maintenance I need to know about. Been reading about these some.
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Old 11-05-2016, 07:38 PM   #7
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I think you may have 4 tanks, not counting your fresh; two grey and two black. In my 3990, there is a black and grey dump valve with a Sani-flush in the wet cabinet. Then there is a grey dump valve under the driver's side wheel well and the 2nd black dump valve towards the rear of the unit on the same side. The second Sani-flush on mine is in the middle of the RV on the other side? Go figure. Hope this applies to your unit. Disregard.
Rusty
PS. The white valve is the fresh water dump.
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Old 11-05-2016, 11:45 PM   #8
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2014 Voltage 3895 Onwers Manual help

Quote:
Originally Posted by lcv800 View Post
I think you may have 4 tanks, not counting your fresh; two grey and two black. In my 3990, there is a black and grey dump valve with a Sani-flush in the wet cabinet. Then there is a grey dump valve under the driver's side wheel well and the 2nd black dump valve towards the rear of the unit on the same side. The second Sani-flush on mine is in the middle of the RV on the other side? Go figure. Hope this applies to your unit. Disregard.
Rusty
PS. The white valve is the fresh water dump.


Rusty's 3990 is set up just like a 3895. The shower & main bath sink drain into the front grey tank and the kitchen & garage bath sinks drain into the rear grey tank.

The white pull handle is a quick drain for most of the fresh water tank and the cap on the white hose in front of it drains the rest. If I'm dry camping I'll pull the quick drain to get rid of the water weight for the drive home and still have enough in the tank for a potty break. When you winterize you need to drain the fresh water tank by also removing the cap on the white hose.

If you think about how the fresh water tanks drain you can better understand how they fill. Best I can figure out there are two fresh tanks connected by a cross over, so the quick pull drains the back leaving the water below the cross over in the front. When I fill the fresh tank (s) with the hose on full blast it will over flow making you think it's full but then I'll cut the flow down to a trickle to give the cross over time to equalize and be able to fill the fresh tank up to the advertised 160 gallons.

This is a three beer job!!!

Another issue I've had with the grey tanks is after a long drive the water in the p traps will slosh out letting the odors from the grey tanks fill the trailer. When I arrive at my site or store the trailer I'll always run a little water down all the drains to fill the traps back up.
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Old 11-06-2016, 02:27 AM   #9
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My 3950 has 4 tanks:
1) black for main toilet;
2) grey for shower and main bath sink;
3) grey for galley;
4) washer, powder room (grey / black)
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Old 11-20-2016, 02:49 AM   #10
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Tank valve lubricant and sensor cleaner

There has already been some great posts and replies to this topic. My 3950 was intimidating as well. My wife and I have been living in ours for two years so far and had a disappointing event happen this week. A couple weeks ago, our forward grey water tank drain valve started giving some resistance, so I left it open since we will be stationary for a while. Then this week the forward black water tank valve seized up and refused to close while I was drain/flushing the black water tanks. I could only manage to half-close the valve. When I attempted to pull the valve fully open the cable broke leaving me with a handful of drain valve handle and a bloody knuckle. I'm not telling you all this to complain, these things happen. For those of you who still have smooth operating drain valves, it would benefit you to look in Camping World for a product manufactured by 'THETFORD' called Drain Valve Lubricant. They also had some sensor cleaner chemical, but I haven't tried it yet. The Lubricant is a thick red chemical that can be used in both grey and black tanks. It lubricates and frees up sticking valves. I can honestly say it helped my rear two valves work easier. Once I get my forward tanks corrected, I'll treat them again to help. Camping World may not be the only place that sells it. I happen to see it and decided to give it a try. I don't recommend leaving your black water tank valve open for a long period of time. If the tank gets some blockage like mine, the pipe under the toilet may fill up and then you have to decide if you are going to clear it from the top (toilet) or the bottom. (Not recommended since that requires you to run a snake from the drain hose outside and once it's clear, everything is coming out the hole you ran the snake into) Can you handle gallons of sewage coming out? Nope! Camping World to the rescue again! They sell (not cheap) a handy garden hose attachment about 4 feet long that has a brass sinning thing when you turn on the water to help clear the stuff in the tank. Works like a charm! Just remember to wear gloves or you'll have some Icky Poo on your hands. (Clean the whirly thing tool well before storing also) Hope this helps anyone that may run into this problem down the road. Happy Camping and Happy Holidays everyone! SBR
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Old 11-20-2016, 04:40 PM   #11
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In regards to your sani flush not working, there are check valves installed on each one. many of these were installed backwards, not allowing any flow into the tank. there is a flow direction arrow that should point away from the sani flush hookup and toward the respective black tank. It is fairly simple to just unscrew the hoses and flip the valve around. Of course getting to them could be hard.
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Old 11-20-2016, 04:58 PM   #12
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The usual problem with drain cables breaking is the cable themselves and not the gate valve.
The manufacturer uses cables for all occasions, the cable that fits the Coleman camper is the same as the 45 foot toy hauler. They just bunch up the excess cable and hope it makes it out of the factory.

We have some avid electric valve users here, just wait and you'll get the whole skinny on those valves without 9 mile cables on them.
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Old 11-21-2016, 10:08 PM   #13
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Just like Sundancer 87 said, The cables are to long and if you don't want to change to Electric Valves, Before I changed to Electric, I picked up a couple Twist-On valves, on sale at Camping World # 27868 $23.38. They are easy on and Just Ins.
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Old 11-21-2016, 10:18 PM   #14
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Dugger 11 Your 3895 has 4 tanks, with 2 clean out connections, as someone above stated, your Front Black and grey are in the front storage bay with one Clean-out, another grey under the kitchen slide, which also connected to your washer area, The rear Black is under the rear bathroom, with the grey bath grey/Black in that tank and has a Clean-out on the wall, With the Black Tanks open, the water should come out from there? Some of the 3895, I have seen, have the washer, rear bath going to the rear Black.
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Old 11-27-2016, 05:29 PM   #15
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Thanks and one more question.

Thanks for all the help, I think we have the plumbing figured out now with all of your help. One more issue I'm having I could use a little help on. I've got a new battery that doesn't seem to be charging, I'm assuming there is a charger inside the camper somewhere, behind a panel somewhere. In order to start my generator I must use a jump box. I do have a battery off/on with that I try to leave off so the battery doesn't over charge, when I leave it on for several days the battery still won't start the generator. The voltage indicated shows battery voltage at 13 volts, also the hydralic leveling system also errors with low voltage. Any advice?
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