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07-02-2020, 04:45 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Defuniak Springs
Posts: 12
Florida
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Tire pressure?
I just had a set of Transeagle all steels put on my 30 foot Denali Fifthwheel. The tires are 14 ply with a max pressure of 110 lbs, the tire dealer set them to 95 lbs because that is the max pressure rating for my wheels. My question is will the wheels handle the pressure after heating up on the highway? The old tires were 10 plys with a max pressure of 80 lbs. I'm not sure if that rating on the wheels is a cold pressure with allowances for the pressure rising when hot or should I reduce the tire pressure to 80 lbs? I don't want to damage the tires by running low pressure.
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07-02-2020, 04:53 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Youngstown
Posts: 712
Florida
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Max pressure wheel is rated at should be stamped on the inside of wheel. Also valve stem (rubber-v-steel) will also be a factor.
Welcome to the forum neighbor.
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07-02-2020, 05:12 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Defuniak Springs
Posts: 12
Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thom
Max pressure wheel is rated at should be stamped on the inside of wheel. Also valve stem (rubber-v-steel) will also be a factor.
Welcome to the forum neighbor.
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Yes it is stamped 95 lbs max and has steel valve stems. My question is should I run the tires at 95 lbs which is max for the wheels. When the tires get hot the pressure will rise, do they allow for that?
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07-02-2020, 05:36 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Youngstown
Posts: 712
Florida
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Yes, tire pressure are rated as "cold" pressure, so it does take heat/pressure into account.
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07-02-2020, 06:49 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Defuniak Springs
Posts: 12
Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thom
Yes, tire pressure are rated as "cold" pressure, so it does take heat/pressure into account.
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Ok I have never dealt with a max pressure on a wheel before so I wasn't sure if they take heat into account like the tires do. They are aluminum wheels and I didn't want to bust a wheel. The tires are no problem because their max is 110 lbs.
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07-03-2020, 09:55 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Quarantine
Posts: 365
Ontario
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Normally I would say "Run them at max" which is 95lbs in your case. However, in this case you're only running a 30' 5er and you don't need max pressure to carry the load safely.
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07-03-2020, 10:01 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Quarantine
Posts: 365
Ontario
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Each of those tires is rated at 3950 lbs at 110psi. You'll probably be putting only 2000 on each.
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07-03-2020, 10:07 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Defuniak Springs
Posts: 12
Florida
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So do you think 80 lbs is enough?
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07-03-2020, 10:15 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Porter
Posts: 145
Texas
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Here in Texas I see my tire pressure increase by as much as 7 psi on hot days. The sunny side will typically run 2 psi higher than the shady side. 85 psi cold should give you just a little safety margin with the 95 psi rim max pressure when things heat up.
Only other question now is can you run the tire pressure that low and maintain sidewall integrity.
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2017 Dutchman Denali 287RE
2017 Nissan Titan XD diesel
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07-03-2020, 10:17 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Defuniak Springs
Posts: 12
Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pctomlin
Here in Texas I see my tire pressure increase by as much as 7 psi on hot days. The sunny side will typically run 2 psi higher than the shady side. 85 psi cold should give you just a little safety margin with the 95 psi rim max pressure when things heat up.
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Sounds good, thanks.
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07-08-2020, 10:06 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 84
Ohio
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1. Pressures are ALWAYS the cold pressure. Tire engineers are aware that pressure will increase (2% for each 10 F). Wheel engiineers also know that the running "hot" pressure is higher so would take the increase into account.
2. Valves. Should be Bolt in type not the rubber "High Pressure type". I have two posts in my RVTireSafety blog just on this topic. June 24 and July 3. Including a video of a "Failed" rubber "high Pressure valve.
3. I would suggest you run 95 psi cold as that would give extra reserve needed to lower the chance of Interply Shear belt detachment. (also covered in my blog)
4 NEVER depend on the pressure increase cold>hot to get you to the pressure you want to run.
5 read my blog posts if you want technically correct information from an actual tire design engineer.
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Retired Tire Design Engineer (40 years). I write a blog on RV tire applications www.RVTireSafety.NET and give seminars on RV tire application across the US. Serve on Technical Advisory Panel for FMCA. I am scheduled to give seminars on Genealogy and RV Tire Safety in March at FMCA in Tuscon AZ on 25 & 26.
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07-08-2020, 10:23 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Defuniak Springs
Posts: 12
Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tireman9
1. Pressures are ALWAYS the cold pressure. Tire engineers are aware that pressure will increase (2% for each 10 F). Wheel engiineers also know that the running "hot" pressure is higher so would take the increase into account.
2. Valves. Should be Bolt in type not the rubber "High Pressure type". I have two posts in my RVTireSafety blog just on this topic. June 24 and July 3. Including a video of a "Failed" rubber "high Pressure valve.
3. I would suggest you run 95 psi cold as that would give extra reserve needed to lower the chance of Interply Shear belt detachment. (also covered in my blog)
4 NEVER depend on the pressure increase cold>hot to get you to the pressure you want to run.
5 read my blog posts if you want technically correct information from an actual tire design engineer.
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Thank you.
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07-08-2020, 10:46 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Dawsonville
Posts: 66
Georgia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlyons
I just had a set of Transeagle all steels put on my 30 foot Denali Fifthwheel. The tires are 14 ply with a max pressure of 110 lbs, the tire dealer set them to 95 lbs because that is the max pressure rating for my wheels. My question is will the wheels handle the pressure after heating up on the highway? The old tires were 10 plys with a max pressure of 80 lbs. I'm not sure if that rating on the wheels is a cold pressure with allowances for the pressure rising when hot or should I reduce the tire pressure to 80 lbs? I don't want to damage the tires by running low pressure.
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FORGET THE RATING OF THE TIRE! All that matters is that you have a higher rated tire than stock.
You still want to put the pressure in those new tires as stated on your RV’s sticker. All you have now is added insurance “peace of mind” on weight and speed ratings!
I changed over to Goodyear Endurance immediately upon bringing my new RV home. 14 ply instead of 10, 87 MPH rated instead of ...60(?) and half again the weight rating at full pressure BUT I DO NOT NEED THAT FULL PRESSURE. I need the pressure rated for my RV’s weight, that is all.
So now my tires will FLY at 70 MPH in the middle of the Arizona summer and I will not have a care in the world...until my next stop when I check them all! ALWAYS!
Max pressure will give your rig an extra 1 -2 points harder/harsher ride on the Richter scale is all you will accomplish. Instead of a 3.5 earthquake rolling down the road, you might attain a 5+! Look that up!
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07-08-2020, 11:01 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Defuniak Springs
Posts: 12
Florida
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My rv sticker calls for 80 psi with 10 ply tires. The new 14 ply tires call for 110 lbs max and my wheels say 95 psi max. That's what makes it confusing. I know I can't run more than 95 lbs bacause of the wheels. Right now they have 90 lbs in them. The tire dealer put them at 95 lbs.
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Roy & Sabine
2011 Dutchman Denali 30 Ft
1992 Dodge D250 Diesel
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07-08-2020, 11:11 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Dawsonville
Posts: 66
Georgia
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Put the pressure in them YOUR STICKER CALLS FOR and you just “rock on down the highway” my Friend!
Ply’s & construction actually have no bearing here. Just put the pressure your manufacturer plate state’s and you are GOLDEN.
As I stated:: with LOTS.of headroom for heat & speed left for safety! Plus a more cushy rude for your RV and all that is in there.
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07-09-2020, 01:51 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 573
California
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Have not noticed if the rig has been weighed fully loaded. If not do this so you know the weight that the tires will need to carry.
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Mike & Emily-Sacramento, CA
Our 4th trailer (2016 Aspen Trail 1900RB)
2018 F150 STX 2.7 Eco Boost
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07-09-2020, 03:21 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: CORNVILLE
Posts: 99
Arizona
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlyons
I just had a set of Transeagle all steels put on my 30 foot Denali Fifthwheel. The tires are 14 ply with a max pressure of 110 lbs, the tire dealer set them to 95 lbs because that is the max pressure rating for my wheels. My question is will the wheels handle the pressure after heating up on the highway? The old tires were 10 plys with a max pressure of 80 lbs. I'm not sure if that rating on the wheels is a cold pressure with allowances for the pressure rising when hot or should I reduce the tire pressure to 80 lbs? I don't want to damage the tires by running low pressure.
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Here's the deal, if you don't run them at max you will wear out the the edges prematurely . Run at max and watch your tire wear. If center is wearing , drop the pressure a bit. Sailun 16 ply 235x16
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07-09-2020, 12:18 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Dawsonville
Posts: 66
Georgia
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Scales
Quote:
Originally Posted by chily3
Have not noticed if the rig has been weighed fully loaded. If not do this so you know the weight that the tires will need to carry.
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I always load up my truck & trailer and head over to a set of scales at a truck stop
Weigh your vehicle & trailer in all aspects to ensure proper tongue weight and total weight. This is very important for safety and then gives you an idea of latitude moving forward as an example: how much more cargo or water storage can I carry and will I still be under my max trailer weight capacity?
The other thing on tires is to keep an eye on them, if you have the centers wearing more, or the edges...adjust air pressure accordingly but you always want to start with the vehicle manufacturers recommendation.
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07-09-2020, 02:33 PM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Defuniak Springs
Posts: 12
Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yamaha YXZ
Here's the deal, if you don't run them at max you will wear out the the edges prematurely . Run at max and watch your tire wear. If center is wearing , drop the pressure a bit. Sailun 16 ply 235x16
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I can't run them at the 110 lb max because my wheels are rated at 95 psi.
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07-09-2020, 02:48 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Dawsonville
Posts: 66
Georgia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlyons
I can't run them at the 110 lb max because my wheels are rated at 95 psi.
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That is why I suggested, as I have always done, is to “start” at the manufacturer’s tire pressure as shown on your RV’s sticker. This is best practice as a starting point and your experience with your combination will eventually show you the right pressure for your exact setup.
Never exceed any limits whether it is wheels or any part of your RV, stay well within nominal ranges and you will maximize your personal safety as well as others on the highway.
These “boxes” we own are not the best built “custom” coaches, but rather they are literally thrown together in a factory where “how many did we get out the door today” is the only stat that matters, surely not quality.
Monitor everything and often! 😊
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