Jack to check bearings and brakes

[Rhoadzie]

I have a 4 ton floor jack and jack stands. Can I safely use this to jack up one axle at a time to check the brakes and bearings on my 3570 Voltage? I really don't want to go out and buy a large bottle jack if I do not need to. I also think the floor jack is more stable and the jack stands better, although I am unsure of the weight on each axle. But, here is my calculations. My unit is about 26000 pounds fully loaded. If I split that between the three axles it comes to about 8700 pounds per axle and then about 4350 per tire. It appears the floor jack and jack stands should be plenty big enough. Even though these are rudimentary calculations, I would seem to be plenty ok with 8000lb. floor jack and jack stands. Right?

[1l243]

Originally Posted by Rhoadzie

I have a 4 ton floor jack and jack stands. Can I safely use this to jack up one axle at a time to check the brakes and bearings on my 3570 Voltage? I really don't want to go out and buy a large bottle jack if I do not need to. I also think the floor jack is more stable and the jack stands better, although I am unsure of the weight on each axle. But, here is my calculations. My unit is about 26000 pounds fully loaded. If I split that between the three axles it comes to about 8700 pounds per axle and then about 4350 per tire. It appears the floor jack and jack stands should be plenty big enough. Even though these are rudimentary calculations, I would seem to be plenty ok with 8000lb. floor jack and jack stands. Right?

That's a pretty light bottle jack but it should lift one wheel at a time.

I don't think you need jack stands and all that. Just put the bottle jack under the U bolts on the axle close to the wheel and a couple of pumps on the jack and your tire is a inch off the ground. It's all you need to do the bearings brakes one wheel at a time. Your not lifting the entire trailer, your only compressing the suspension a little til the wheel comes off the ground.

But some day you may have to lift the trailer off the ground. You can get a 20 ton LOW bottle jack at Harbor Freight for under $30 with a coupon.

[Local150]

Originally Posted by 1l243

That's a pretty light bottle jack but it should lift one wheel at a time.

I don't think you need jack stands and all that. Just put the bottle jack under the U bolts on the axle close to the wheel and a couple of pumps on the jack and your tire is a inch off the ground. It's all you need to do the bearings brakes one wheel at a time. Your not lifting the entire trailer, your only compressing the suspension a little til the wheel comes off the ground.

But some day you may have to lift the trailer off the ground. You can get a 20 ton LOW bottle jack at Harbor Freight for under $30 with a coupon.

I would get nowhere near it letting it set on the jack,, please use the stands. I jacked up a truck one time got it up fine,, walked across garage to get a jack stand ,, and boom,, a seal blew out of the jack and truck came down in a big hurry,,, be safe it only takes a couple seconds to put a jack stand under it

[1l243]

Originally Posted by Local150

I would get nowhere near it letting it set on the jack,, please use the stands. I jacked up a truck one time got it up fine,, walked across garage to get a jack stand ,, and boom,, a seal blew out of the jack and truck came down in a big hurry,,, be safe it only takes a couple seconds to put a jack stand under it

If I was jacking up a truck I would agree. But lifting one wheel at a time of a 6 wheel trailer. Were talking just enough to get the tire off the ground. Once the wheel is removed even if the jack did fail it would only allow the axle to drop to the limit of the suspension, probably 5 or 6 inches. It wouldn't crash to the ground or anything like that. There is really no reason to use a jack stand it this situation, but if you feel more comfortable sticking a jack stand under the frame go ahead.

[Beachbourbon]

My Dutchmen owner’s manual states that at 12,000 lb bottle jack and Two 12,000 jack stands should be used on the frame rail, not the axle. States that wood should be used both above and below the bottle jack to adjust height and protect the I beam.

My unit would be at 9500 fully loaded

[1l243]

Originally Posted by Beachbourbon

My Dutchmen owner’s manual states that at 12,000 lb bottle jack and Two 12,000 jack stands should be used on the frame rail, not the axle. States that wood should be used both above and below the bottle jack to adjust height and protect the I beam.

My unit would be at 9500 fully loaded

That would be good advise if your were planning on lifting all the wheels on one side at the same time. Not needed if your only removing one wheel to inspect or grease bearings. A bottle jack under the U clamps near the tire. Your only jacking enough to get the tire off the ground. The suspension will compress, I doubt if the frame rail will even move.

[Beachbourbon]

No

Originally Posted by 1l243

That would be good advise if your were planning on lifting all the wheels on one side at the same time. Not needed if your only removing one wheel to inspect or grease bearings. A bottle jack under the U clamps near the tire. Your only jacking enough to get the tire off the ground. The suspension will compress, I doubt if the frame rail will even move.

It’s not advice, it is the manufacturer telling you how to change a tire on their product. They specifically say NOT to jack on an axle to prevent damage. They specifically tell what tools to use and how. For me, I don’t understand why anyone would do it any other way. But I am learning that reading the manual and following directions Or presenting these facts Will result in an argument for some folks in the RV world.

If you want to go against the manufacturers advice, it’s your RV

[azdryheat]

Originally Posted by Rhoadzie

I have a 4 ton floor jack and jack stands. Can I safely use this to jack up one axle at a time to check the brakes and bearings on my 3570 Voltage? I really don't want to go out and buy a large bottle jack if I do not need to. I also think the floor jack is more stable and the jack stands better, although I am unsure of the weight on each axle. But, here is my calculations. My unit is about 26000 pounds fully loaded. If I split that between the three axles it comes to about 8700 pounds per axle and then about 4350 per tire. It appears the floor jack and jack stands should be plenty big enough. Even though these are rudimentary calculations, I would seem to be plenty ok with 8000lb. floor jack and jack stands. Right?

Redo your calculations. No way your 3570 is 26,000 pounds. My V3600 is 19,000 gross but it weighs 16,500 without any stuff in it. Even the heaviest Voltage has a gross weight of 20,000. so figure 16,500 pounds you'll have 5,500 pounds on each axle or 2750 per tire.

[1l243]

Originally Posted by Beachbourbon

No

It’s not advice, it is the manufacturer telling you how to change a tire on their product. They specifically say NOT to jack on an axle to prevent damage. They specifically tell what tools to use and how. For me, I don’t understand why anyone would do it any other way. But I am learning that reading the manual and following directions Or presenting these facts Will result in an argument for some folks in the RV world.

If you want to go against the manufacturers advice, it’s your RV

So if you have a flat on your six wheel trailer your going to get two bottle jacks several blocks of wood and jack all three tires off the ground, support the frame with jack stands to change one tire! Does that make sense?

For a visual, put a 2x4 on the ground, watch your trailer tires roll over the 2x4 and how the suspension flexes. This is all that will happen when you put your bottle jack under the U clamps and jack one tire off the ground just enough to clear the road.
But like you say it's your trailer..

[Local150]

If I am going to jack it up just high enough to get the wheel off, I still jack under the spring bracket, or I have just put the jack under the axle, which I know it says not too. If the manual says jack somewhere else it's up to the individual,, even if the axle can only drop a few i chest I still use a jack stand,,

[videoarizona]

I'v been trailering for years. I always jack up the axle by placing the jack under the spring U Bolts. You can't bend an axle that way and it's secure. You are only jacking up one wheel high enough to spin it or change the tire.
I would never put anything on the axle to jack it up...except the jack stand as a safety. I don't care if the axle breaks then as it will save my life.

K I S S. (is my motto)

[1l243]

Originally Posted by Local150

If I am going to jack it up just high enough to get the wheel off, I still jack under the spring bracket, or I have just put the jack under the axle, which I know it says not too. If the manual says jack somewhere else it's up to the individual,, even if the axle can only drop a few i chest I still use a jack stand,,

The best and only place is under the U brackets. Don't jack anywhere else on the axle or you could damage your axle. If I was to use a jack stand which I wouldn't for just one tire I would put it under the trailer frame.

[videoarizona]

Originally Posted by 1l243

The best and only place is under the U brackets. Don't jack anywhere else on the axle or you could damage your axle. If I was to use a jack stand which I wouldn't for just one tire I would put it under the trailer frame.

The jack stand wont do you any good on the frame. If the jack lets go, the suspension and axle will drop.If you are changing tires or greasing bearings on one wheel...the frame isn't going to go anywhere...especially on a dual axle trailer.

On a single axle trailer the stand on the frame will help, for sure. But I don't think that's as good as on the axle itself. Axles are cheap...

But we do agree about jacking on the U brackets!

[acdii]

Why not use one of these instead? Works all all the trailers I have, though I don't have a triple.



https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Aid-T...a-541971199352

[ArmyVeteran]

Not an engineer.
Not a scientist.
Just 70 years of common sense.

MAnufacturers have been wrong before. Especially RV manufacturers.

Imagine I am on the side of the road changing tires. My choices are:

1. Raise the entire side of my trailer by the frame until one tire comes off the ground. My frame is almost 2 feet off the ground. With the slack of the suspension I am going to have to have that frame 2.5 to 3 feet off the ground. Minimum

2. Place a small block of wood under the axle shackle. Jack ONE INCH! VOILA! TIRE OFF THE GROUND. Since it is flat. Installing the good tire I may need 6 more inches.

So go with the manufacturer? With all due respect, I think not.

Stay safe.
Bill

[Beachbourbon]

It is truly amazing how manny people want argue here with an owner’s manual they obviously have not read. Fun read (this thread and the owner’s manual - trailer & axles mfr)

[acdii]

OR, call road side assistance and let them replace it.



But seriously, being a mechanic, of all frigging types, raising it by the frame to work on one wheel is bull. If you don't raise it equally by the frame, it will induce a twist, cause the floor to pop, and who knows what else may become damaged.



If doing it in a drive, lower the stabilizing jacks at all four corners as you would when camping, put the jack under the spring shackle and lift the one wheel. Or you can use the ramp jack I posted above to lift the bad wheel. Been using it for years and never had an issue.



You want to know how good the OM really is? The Ford F-150 manual, under towing, has you return 1/4 of the front end back when setting up a WDH. Do you know how great the truck handles with only 1/4 returned? It doesn't! Follow the instructions for the hitch, which returns 100% to the front axle and it handles great.



Now if you are doing work on the suspension, such as removing an axle, shackle, etc. raising by the frame comes into play, and in that case, leave it to the pro's to do it instead.

[ArmyVeteran]

Originally Posted by Beachbourbon

It is truly amazing how manny people want argue here with an owner’s manual they obviously have not read. Fun read (this thread and the owner’s manual - trailer & axles mfr)

Here you go Its been read. It is still wrong.

[capeharj]

I was at the FROG rally 2 years ago and Lippert, the manufacturer of the axles, changed all 4 brake assemblies at the same time. They used air over hydraulic jacks on both axles, lifted the trailer off the ground, removed all 4 wheels, removed all 4 brake assembles, replaced the brakes, greased and replaced all 4 wheels. As I said Lippert, the axle manufacture did this, no wooden blocks on the frame and no jacking on the frame only the axles and they weren't worried about harming the axles. I never saw so many people put so much thought and effort into such a simple task. Take it to a dealer and watch how they do it.

[ArmyVeteran]

Originally Posted by capeharj

I was at the FROG rally 2 years ago and Lippert, the manufacturer of the axles, changed all 4 brake assemblies at the same time. They used air over hydraulic jacks on both axles, lifted the trailer off the ground, removed all 4 wheels, removed all 4 brake assembles, replaced the brakes, greased and replaced all 4 wheels. As I said Lippert, the axle manufacture did this, no wooden blocks on the frame and no jacking on the frame only the axles and they weren't worried about harming the axles. I never saw so many people put so much thought and effort into such a simple task. Take it to a dealer and watch how they do it.

Well there you go. Pretty much the definitive answer to a very simple question. Thanks for that.

As to " thought and effort ", I would venture to say a lot of us are retired and have nothing better to do than kibitz😁 And don't need dealers to confirm common sense.

RV there yet😎

Have fun
Bill