99 Classic 30 RL: basic questions

[Burnhaven]

Just bought this one. Its going to be located on our building lot mid-April so we can live in it during home construction. Since I haven't even been able to wander around it and do some inventory yet, here are a few basic questions.

1. Should this fifth wheel have a 4-pin 50 amp plug or 3-pin 30 amp plug ( so I'll know if I need a dogbone ) ?
2. Where is the spare tire normally located? ( none visible on the back of the trailer )
3. As to the pins in the lowest section of the landing legs -- could those be missing or are they permanently secured to the lowest drop portion? I wasn't paying enough attention when the dealership delivered the trailer to the current storage location.
4. I'd like some recommendations for stabilizing jacks beyond the four built-in that came with the trailer ( landing legs and rear jacks ) -- I've read that with slides, these extra jacks should not be placed at the four corners of the frame.
5. opinions on stabilizing jacks for the slide-outs. This one has a larger slide towards the rear and a smaller one for the bedroom up front
6. Opinions on silicone or other pump spray for seals ( 303? ) 303 PROTECTANT 16 OZ (EA) per BTL : Amazon.com : Automotive Pump spray not having accelerates.
7. Use graphite product for locks?
8. Chemical and plug-in dehumidifier suggestions
9. Thoughts on this wheel chock-lock: Ultra-Tow Tandem Wheel Chock/Lock — Pair | Wheel Chocks| Northern Tool + Equipment

[arlan in arizona]

Subscribed.

[sundancer 87]

I see one A/C so I'm guessing a 30 amp service is in it.
Look under the rear portion of the rig for the spare. Might be a crank handle somewhere with the hoist between the stairs.
The pins are probably gone, they get bent and maybe yours were used or bent and tossed.

These are SWAGs of course, lubricants and chocks are a personal preference and fall under your learning curve.

The extra stabilization may or may not be needed. Everyone of us has our own ideas and opinions so you'll probably get a few different suggestions and options. To me, it's a feel and adapt or modify so you'll know what you need after a few weeks in the rig.

Lots of knowledge here so someone will have more answers for you.

[Burnhaven]

Thanks Sundancer. Since we'll be in this trailer for probably 10 months during home construction ( and it won't be moved ) , I was wondering if jacks/supports for the slides would be advisable.

[sundancer 87]

Some say yes for supports and others say not to do it. The main reason for not doing it is the probability of the rig itself settling and therefore putting stress where the supports are.
That makes sense to me but if your ground is hard or not prone to allow settling then I would think it would be ok to do so.
In my 3800 toy hauler I see no need for them because of the way the slide is in contact with the interior walls. The slides butt up against the wall on both sides and the top so unless the 'stop' trim loosens the slide can't really go any further out or down. I have a 13 foot slide that holds the couch and dinette table so most of the human weight is more inboard than outboard. I'd have to stand on the edge of the couch, the most exterior part, before any appreciable weight is placed at the most outboard area.

Give it a study and see what you think.
Of course like most opinions, this is just my opinion also.

[Burnhaven]

Went out to inspect the rig and got some answers today. It is a 30-amp setup. No spare tire anywhere.

Two cranks and one "rod" Largest must be for rear jacks.


How to open this ( furnace? ) door without breaking the fasteners?


This trailer appears to have a fresh water tank, black (sewage) tank and two? gray water tanks?

[sundancer 87]

The door is to the rear of the refrigerator. Simply turn the black plastic things a 1/4 turn and it should open. The furnace door is below the refrigerator door, it's the door with the little round screen poking out of it.
The rod may be for grabbing the awning and pulling it open. That's a guess on my part.
The guys I know use a battery powered drill to do the jacks instead of using the cranks. Lots faster with the drill. Maybe an option for later on since you'll be sitting for a few months.

The tank set up seems about right.

I noticed water drops on the exterior refrigerator door. Perhaps you washed the rig off? I would be careful spraying water directly on or into the door openings. If the refrigerator has a recall kit on it water will kill the switch. The recall kit consists of a high limit temperature switch to protect the refrigerator and the rig. You won't know until you open the door and look inside if the kit was installed, if necessary. The kit was for Norcold refrigerators but I don't know the exact model numbers but I think it goes back a few years. If it's a dealer installed kit there should be a sticker in there stating that fact.

The photos are a great help BTW.

[Burnhaven]

Thanks again. The trailer was wet from rain.
I can see our LP cylinders are 30# 7 gallons each.


We need to measure the television opening in this cabinet once the slide is out. I don't think our 46 inch LCD will fit in there.


This battery vent cover needs to be replaced.


I took a couple of shots of the rubber roof. Doesn't look like anything some cleaning won't handle. Absolutely no leaks inside I can find.



There is a plastic drain plug in the lower right of this water heater compartment shot -- that must screw in somewhere.