2012 voltage v3200 no hot water

[Griffsyj]

Hello everyone, I need some help. I just purchased a new to me 2012 dutchmen voltage v3200 and have been going through all the things...and I cannot get hot water out of the sinks or shower. I've verified the hot water lever isn't in bypass, the shower knobs are in the closed position, I can feel the hot pex line coming out of the tank and it's hot, moving to the wet station, I can feel one pex line somewhat warm leading up to the bypass lever, but barely warm. Everything on the other side of that valve is cold and I get no hot water anywhere. What in the world am I missing here? My next thing to try is to switch the lever into bypass mode to see if the valve is messed up and I get hot water somewhere. I already found the black tank and grey tank dumps were hooked up backwards(they're cable fed) but had to cut part of the under skirt off in order to obtain access to them.

[persistent]

Make sure all hot and cold shower valves are "off". Make sure third bypass valve is "off". Then retest.

Hot water in the output line at the water heater means the bypass to tank is open. My bypass is a one valve with check valves system. A failed check valve could cause the problem. If you have a three valve system, the third valve may be open along with the other two, allowing cold water to bypass and not getting much hot out.

The same issue comes up with outside and inside showers. Sometimes, you can close the shower head valve and leave both the hot and cold valve open. Cold water can flow from cold valve back into hot side.

[ewarnerusa]

Some bypass configs use 3 valves, others use 2, or even just one along with check valves. In the 3 or 2 valve situation, there are multiple valves to move when switching between bypass and normal. There will be cold water inlet to water heater tank at the bottom and hot water out of the top of the tank. Water flows in the direction of the long axis of the valve handles so you can visualize the flow direction. For normal operation the water should be allowed into the bottom of the tank and out of the top of the tank, while the bypass line should be blocked. Bypass mode should be the opposite for each valve.

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One valve system, normal operation

[acdii]

Just keep in mind, the handle position indicates flow. On that last picture above, the handle points to the long line, not the bypass, so the water flow is into the tank, and not to the bypass.




BTW what is preventing water from getting into the tank with only one valve on it? First time I have seen a single valve bypass on a water heater.


On second thought, thats probably not the same type valve that is used on mine that directs flow, just shuts it off.

[persistent]

There are check valves in place of manual valves. They prevent back follow.

No water can flow backwards through the bypass pipe because the manual valve has blocked it when in tank is full.

The tank has a check valve on both the input and output. Water only flows one way through the tank.

[dougs2]

When you filled the water heater tank did you open the pressure relief valve and wait until water spurted out? Then, I always pop it with a pair of pliers and let it slam shut. Just a guess maybe it has a big air bubble in there.

[DR Buck]

I've attached the 2012 Voltage engineering diagrams. Supply plumbing is on page 3. This should help. I recommend printing this package and keep a copy in the Voltage.

Dave

[franktafl]

Originally Posted by DR Buck

I've attached the 2012 Voltage engineering diagrams. Supply plumbing is on page 3. This should help. I recommend printing this package and keep a copy in the Voltage.

Dave

WW!